[Dan85]

Hi guys. Anyone had experience with these type of oil coolers? Great way to save some space in the already crowded engine bay but are they effective? Was thinking a standard style cooler with fan between the trans and factory cooler and then one of these on the other side? Going to be doing a bit of towing in my auto jimny up in Northern wa. Thanks in advance.

http://www.topstreetperformance.com/hea ... n-coolers/

[Mike_B]

Mostly any additional trans oil cooler will improve things when towing, particularly in hooter parts of Aus, generally fitted to the oil line after the factory oil cooler (but may depend on just where you can mount it). Jimny shouldn't need a very big trans oil cooler, these might be good idea for space saving, however,
I have never had any experience with the type you are asking about, but do have one comment, they will work best with airflow along the cooler, and not sure how you intended to mount it, but keep that in mind if you hadn't already.

[Gwagensteve]

More cooling is always better than less cooling, but make sure that the in line cooler is getting cool air and not hot air flowing off your radiator. Personally, I don't reckon those in line coolers are all that effective, but as an addition they can't hurt.

I wouldn't bother with the factory trans "heater." I want my auto to run cooler than the engine, not warmer. My auto will quite often sit at 80-85˚ on my gauge - so the trans fluid running into the trans from the cooler is well, well under that.

With the factory "heater" in place, the cooler you have added will always be cooling the fluid from whatever temp the bottom of the radiator is at. Why heat the fluid up with one cooler only to cool it down again with another?

I assume your already running an auto temp gauge?

Steve.

[Dan85]

Gauge is today's job. Poor thing has pretty well not moved since I got it back from the smash repairer. Next weeks Job is the cooler/s then the week after I get the trailer.

So if I was to only get the one normal style cooler would I disconnect the factory one all together or leave it in? Steve you say get rid of it but a lot of the other cooler threads say to keep it. I guess if I can get my trans running around 80-90 the radiator would be more than that I'd guess so what you say makes perfect sense.

Little off topic but the outflow from the trans goes into the passenger side of the rad and the inflow to the trans comes out the drivers side of the rad doesn't it?

Thanks Steve your always a wealth of useful info.

[Gwagensteve]

Depends who you listen to in relation to keeping the stock "heater"

Tech from North America will often advise to keep the in radiator cooler because there is a risk of over cooling in <-30˚winter temperatures. This isn't a problem for us over here.

I know for certain my auto runs cooler than it would if I had an in radiator cooler.

[Dan85]

Thanks Steve. I doubt I will have an over cooling issue in port hedland hahaha. Once the gauge is in and cooler is in I might try with and without the rad cooler just to see the actual temp difference.

[Mike_B]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Depends who you listen to in relation to keeping the stock "heater"

Tech from North America will often advise to keep the in radiator cooler because there is a risk of over cooling in <-30˚winter temperatures. This isn't a problem for us over here.

I know for certain my auto runs cooler than it would if I had an in radiator cooler.

This is a good point, where I currently live in Tassie, it can get to -5 in the mornings on my daily commute to work and rarely do we have consistent temps over mid 20's, (but can get into 30's at some places at times), however there are large parts of Aus where ambient temps are consistently much higher and different approaches to cooling and induction temps are quite valid.

[Gwagensteve]

My understanding is that -5˚C is nowhere near cold enough to be worried about overcooling an auto.
On the other hand, the highest temp I've seen an auto reach was on a day that was under 30˚C. It was a combination of lots of climbing, crawling, and a radiator that was partially blocked with mud.

Steve.

[Docka83]

Here is mine. PWR slim with SPAL fan combo in place of the stock front electric fan. Every auto shop I spoke too said I was doing a cooler a disservice if I used the stock water cooling so its bypassed and bunged. I can say with the M18a and big tires it works. Noticeable difference in inlet and outlet temps (by feel) but I'll eventually get a temp sensor.

The SPAL fan flows more air than the Jimny one so plenty of air getting through at idle and slow speeds.

[Dan85]

Ok I've got a problem lol. My gauge goes straight to the end of the range when the gauge has power connected. The sensor is grounded and I've connected the the positive input on the gauge to the cig lighter so it's only on when the car is.

[Dan85]

Anyone got any idea why the gauge does this? I've messed about with it to no end. I'd really appreciate any ideas.

[Gwagensteve]

Incorrect polarity?

I can't think of another reason, unless your sender isn't designed to be grounded.

Steve.

[Dan85]

Incorrect polarity of the + & - into the back of the gauge? Ill take the ground off and see how it goes. Not sure if its an issue but i cant see why it would be but the gauge negative is straight to the battery rather than grounded to the body is this an issue? Thanks Steve

[fordem]

Dan85 wrote:

Ok I've got a problem lol. My gauge goes straight to the end of the range when the gauge has power connected. The sensor is grounded and I've connected the the positive input on the gauge to the cig lighter so it's only on when the car is.

How many terminals on the sender? Where is the sender installed? Where did you connect the sensor ground?

All the electrical temp gauges I've seen have had senders with one terminal and used the body of the sender as a ground return - if this style is mounted in a tee which is then inserted into a rubber hose - you need to ground the tee - not the sensor terminal.

[Dan85]

There is only one terminal on the sender. I had grounded the sender to the body. The sender is mounted in a t in a rubber house.

I gave up on the weekend as flew back to work this morning. So action plan going forward:

Ground the t to the vehicle body not the sender
Positive terminal on gauge to vehicle cig lighter
Negative terminal on gauge to the battery
sended connected to the s terminal on the gauge

Sound good?

I really appreciate all the help on this.

[Gwagensteve]

Yep, that sounds correct.

Steve.

[fordem]

Did you have the one terminal on the sender connected to both the gauge and the body? That would cause the gauge to go hot when the power was applied - move the ground wire from the terminal to the tee and it should work.

[Dan85]

Fordem I had the ground and sensor wire on the same point and it was going straight to hot. This weekend once I get home I will ground the tee and see how it goes. Thanks mate.

[Dan85]

Well I got the gauge working thanks guys!