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Post Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:25 am 
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Hi guys, just wondering how i can get more drop out of my front leaf springs. I have RUF using the (assumed) factory rear leaves with extended shackles. Im happy with how it tucks, just shy of bumpstop. From what i understand the number of leaves should not affect droop (springs aren't clamped). Do i simply need a main with more un-weighted arch? Thanks for any feedback! Steve


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Last edited by mpress94 on Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:09 am 
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you will get more drop if the tuck side reaches the bump stop.

lighter springs will aloow more drop as will longer springs.

you need a RUF my friend.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:17 am 
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I think the op is implying they have a ruf with stock rear springs?

Steve.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:31 am 
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If your not reaching the bumpstop on the tucked side, extend it so it touches plus another 1/2 inch,
this will make a fulcrum to pivot from and force the other side down

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:37 am 
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Sorry guys should have worded that better. I have RUF. Tucked side is about 1" from stock bumpstop. I have some big negative offset 8" rims to go on so the extra leverage should get me closer. Should i be concentrating on changing the up travel or leave it alone?

I dont like the idea of forcing hard into bumpstop to force opposite side down. I'm not sure this is advantageous? I feel it is wasting articulation. If i am wrong can someone else confirm? Steve? Tanshi?

The spring pack is made up of 2 rear main leaves (were very flat) and 2 front leaves that had a bit of arch to hold the front up. I am thinking i need to replace the 2 main leaves with ones that have more arch? Is my thinking correct? Thanks guys

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:46 am 
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Should the tuck side be hitting the stop hard or is resting just on it where you want to be?

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 12:03 pm 
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it should hit the bump stop, if its not its generally a sign that your springs are too hard.

there is no problem in it hitting the bump stop, it actually adds to stability and predictable flex.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 12:38 pm 
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I am going to run 33s in the future with a VL. Might need some bumpstop spacing depending how much i can get out of the guards. Looks like i might need some taller, softer rears for the front then.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 12:47 pm 
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this has 33s with 2 inch efs rears in the front and a VL
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=42455&hilit=random+reverse

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 2:49 pm 
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Did the 2" rears tuck to stops? Might try and get some some soft 2" rears and just run 3 leaves. Thanks tanshi really appreciate it!

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 3:12 pm 
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yep his tuck to the bumps

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 10:15 am 
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I have decided to move the 2" lifted OME rear springs to the front, and use corolla springs in the back. Might need to reset the corolla springs a bit as i imagine the rear will sit a fair bit lower than the front.

The OME rears currently flex to stops. If I put them in the front will they still tuck to stop? Leaf pack has 3 leaves. The front has extended shackles. Does the front have more weight over the springs than the rear? Thanks

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 10:21 am 
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YEP, the front has the engine weight over the front which is one of the reasons the front flexes more than the rear usually

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 11:31 am 
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Depending on your driving style it's likely you will bend OME rears with only 3 leaves in the pack. It seemed to be okay for medium tracks but if you start trying to hit anything with speed they'll start to bend.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 12:44 pm 
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tanshi wrote:
YEP, the front has the engine weight over the front which is one of the reasons the front flexes more than the rear usually


LOL! What does the engine and gearbox weigh in a sierra compared to 2 average size adults sitting in the front? :P Higher rate springs in the rear of mine and they are the first to sag.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 12:51 pm 
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have you checked lately where the seating position of the "front" seats is? i would say the weight is around 50/50 between front and rear axles.

your rear springs sag more because or spring wrap from on road driving in 2wd Dan

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 3:13 pm 
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mpress94 wrote:
I dont like the idea of forcing hard into bumpstop to force opposite side down. I'm not sure this is advantageous? I feel it is wasting articulation. If i am wrong can someone else confirm? Steve? Tanshi?


dont you trust me?

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 3:21 pm 
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Another thing to do for more droop is to open up the spring clamps to allow the leaves to separate.

The other thing that will restrict droop / compression is the length of the front shock. Longer shocks will give you more droop but less upwards travel. Your bump stops should touch the diff tube with about 1 inch of up travel left. Most of the more modded sierras have had the top shock mount raised to fit longer shocks. This could be something to look into but would require engineering as your welding onto the chassis.


B4T

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 3:40 pm 
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tanshi wrote:
have you checked lately where the seating position of the "front" seats is?


Yep! Have a look at my avatar. Seating position pretty much lines up with the door handle therefore favoring the rear. Doesn't take to much ppl weight to equal or exceed the weight of a zuk engine and box. Will agree that the overall weight must be close to 50/50. The OP also has a hardtop which would add more bulk weight to the rear and make the springs work.

mpress94: Do you have a clearer side on image flexed up? Looks like the front seems to be bound up by something. Are they a full rear pack? In my RUF the front ended up with 4x6mm leafs, with the main being 20mm or so longer then stock with stock shackles. Have the same packs in the rear + an extra leaf on the drivers side. IIRC I added 1.5" or so of camber to the rear packs for it to sit level.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 4:05 pm 
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Coil springs...........

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 4:33 pm 
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...............don't necessarily have any more travel than leaves.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 4:47 pm 
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JrZook wrote:
tanshi wrote:
have you checked lately where the seating position of the "front" seats is?



mpress94: Do you have a clearer side on image flexed up? Looks like the front seems to be bound up by something. Are they a full rear pack? In my RUF the front ended up with 4x6mm leafs, with the main being 20mm or so longer then stock with stock shackles. Have the same packs in the rear + an extra leaf on the drivers side. IIRC I added 1.5" or so of camber to the rear packs for it to sit level.



What are the full specs of the springs your running front and back because i will be doing a ruf. But i have bought efs rears and how would you guys mod the spring pack to allow it to carry weight for camping trips but still give good droop. Sorry for the hijack.
Cheers Marvin

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 1:22 am 
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I run custom 6mm mains made to EFS length - 10mm, packed with stock rear leafs to make 4 leaf packs. Rears have a custom 5th leaf.

Because of the thickness, EFS rear packs tend to work ok with 3 leafs per pack. You may have to run slightly extended shackles in the rear to stop the shackle unloading and "inverting" as they are borderline too long for stock rear hanger spacing. Bare this in mind when you go to relocate the hangers in the front for these springs.

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 7:25 am 
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A few of the questions I've already answered but i will again. There is no clamps on the spring pack. Rear pack is OME (assumed) 2" lifted) with 3 leaves. Front pack is made up of 4 leaves. No. 1 and 2 leaves are the standard rears (were very flat) and No. 3 and 4 are fronts that have more arch. Flexed it again today and had a closer look. Front springs definitely need a leaf removed. Not going to bother as I'm going to run a longer rear spring, and put the OME rears in the front. I am concerned about the OME rears. When they are flexed to bump stop the main spring is all warped. The second spring is full length but doesnt seem to fix the problem. Any ideas?

As for shock mounts there is no shocks in that photo. I have extended shock mounts for the front just haven't put them in yet. Not concerned about legality of welding mounts. Rear mounts will be moved too. Thanks guys, Steve

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 7:30 am 
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Side on


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Post Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 7:35 am 
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As i was saying, it doesn't matter so much as I'll be swapping the springs again. Might start on monday. Heading to Landcruiser park on saturday so don't want to change anything til then! Mate has a GU coil cab, hoping i can out drive him! anyone bored/ free/ looking for something to do is more than welcome to tag along!

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 7:44 am 
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Thanks for that great info
I was planning to run the front hanger spacing the same as the rear because I was thinking that would be a good shackle angle but after you said that should I make it 10-20mm smaller.

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:07 am 
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If you are using standard length shackles you should make it longer not shorter. They sometimes invert under full compression (shackle hits horizontal)

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:10 am 
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Sorry for my wording it's a bit hard to understand. For EFS springs the rear hanger distance is slightly too small. You need to extend it a bit. Someone will have a better guess how much. Probably only 10mm. That's using a standard length shackle.

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:28 am 
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Thanks for that yer I made a mistake thanks for the picking up on that

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