[klutched]

Time: 30mins per side.
Tools: Hammer, 2 x 19mm spanner or use 1 x 19mm spanner and an adjustable wrench, 17mm socket, 19mm socket, ratchet.

Step 1: Jack the front end up, take your front wheels off and put jack stands under the your chassis.


Step 2: Using the 17mm socket, undo the bolt that holds the tie rod end to the hub.


Step 3: Jack up the front control arm on the ball joint castle nut.


Step 4: Hit the tie rod end bolt down with the hammer so it becomes free.


Step 5: Get a paint pen and mark where the nut is so you can return it back to the correct spot when you put the new tie rod end on.


Step 6: Using a 19mm spanner and adjustable wrench, undo the tie rod end from the steering arm, try not the move the nut too far. Might be a bit tight so spray some wd40 on it and use your muscles

Should look like this once it's off.


Step 7: Put new tie rod end back onto the steering arm and get it as close as you can to where it originally was.


Step 8: Slide tie rod end back into the hole that attaches to the hub and using a 19mm socket, tighten the bolt down to 45NM.



All done Repeat same procedure on the opposite side.

[Built4thrashing]

I would suggest you get a wheel alignment after replacing rack ends.


There are always differences in lengths of these bulk made parts.

[tanshi]

I personally wouldnt hit the end of the thread to get the ball joint to seperate either.

Not a good practice to start even if you are throwing away the old end.

[klutched]

Built4thrashing wrote:

I would suggest you get a wheel alignment after replacing rack ends.


There are always differences in lengths of these bulk made parts.

Yeah sorry, forgot to put that in!

[zoukshin]

Good tech. (aside from hammering )

Why did you need to change them btw ?

[jimny_timmy]

Could always wind the nut back on before you hit it with the hammer....

[klutched]

zoukshin wrote:

Good tech. (aside from hammering )

Why did you need to change them btw ?

Old ones were rooted, had so much play in them it wasn't funny. Thought it was my heavy steering problem but it didn't fix it. So I'll have to look into my P/S Now

[zoukshin]

klutched wrote:

So I'll have to look into my P/S Now

More good tech to come

[Built4thrashing]

klutched wrote:

Old ones were rooted, had so much play in them it wasn't funny. Thought it was my heavy steering problem but it didn't fix it. So I'll have to look into my P/S Now

I had really heavy and notchy steering. and afte going over everything it turned out to be the lower steering knuckle.... the uni joints were really tight. I Replaced the knuckles and steering is now back to normal.

[fordem]

I believe Suzuki calls that the "steering shaft, lower" - the knuckle is at the bottom of the strut.

The UJs are staked in, but can be replaced - usually only the lower of two will require replacement - look for an ST-1640.

[klutched]

Cheers B4T! Got myself a new steering shaft and it turns awesome now!!!

[Built4thrashing]

klutched wrote:

Cheers B4T! Got myself a new steering shaft and it turns awesome now!!!

See I'm not just here for my good looks ...... or maybe I am

[bigrig91]

Good tech Klutched, can anyone tell me if the 1.6 and v6 vitaras share the same tie rods??

Klutched you also owe me a rear diff centre hahah. All good mate.

[klutched]

bigrig91 wrote:

Good tech Klutched, can anyone tell me if the 1.6 and v6 vitaras share the same tie rods??

Klutched you also owe me a rear diff centre hahah. All good mate.

Nope I don't believe so.

Hahaha diff center is still all good just not the R&P Too many dualies me thinks or it wasn't set up properly from the guy you got it off

When you back in Brissy?

[bigrig91]

Come back 19th of march. Got a heap to do on the race car before crusier park in may. If I swapped my r & p into it would it still be locked?

[klutched]

bigrig91 wrote:

Come back 19th of march. Got a heap to do on the race car before crusier park in may. If I swapped my r & p into it would it still be locked?

Sweet when are you heading up to cruiser? Yep will be locked, as far as I can see no damage done to the diff center, so you can swap the R&P's over and will still be locked. Probs best to get it done somewhere so they can set up the backlash and shit cause I have a feeling it was the problem with this diff because it was really tight, same thing happened to my front when we just bolted it all together and then it smashed the R&P.