[Mikey1st]

Thanks for that Fordem! That sounds exactly like it, now i think about it the front wheels would have been on the ground at the time with the right rear in the air.
So is it actually a "Problem" as such or just sounds like one? As im not to keen on replacing it if it isnt much of a problem.
I've done a bit of reading on the 26 spline gears and it seems like way more of a stuff around finding one then im willing to do.

[klutched]

Mikey1st wrote:

How does this set up for the suspension sound instead of the Calmini kit??


Ebay lower control arms with tie rod ends $510 delivered - downside is these ball joints dont appear replaceable.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LOWER-CONTRO ... 7f1&_uhb=1

Jimnybits 2" / 50mm Extra Articulation Lift Kit - $825 delivered - has 4x springs, rear shocks, diff drops, extended rear brake hose and front strut spacers.
http://www.jimnybits.co.uk/shop/grand-v ... _1182.html

Dobinsons front struts from Outdoorauto4x4 - $345 delivered.
http://www.outdoorauto4x4.com/p/4901097 ... ruts-.html

$1680 total, compared to $1300 total for the Calmini Low Range also advised 3-6 week wait for the calmini which means 6-10 week wait to receive it .... grrrrr not sure what to do!!!!!

Does that cover everything?

Ive also ordered DBA rotors and bendex pads

TBH just get Diff Drops Brackets, Springs (2 or 3"), Camber Bolts, Panhard Relocator and the Procomp shocks from Jimnybits for $665AUD Delivered, you don't need the strut spacers, they'll just put unwanted stress on the CV's and also can get a brake line put on the rear here cheap anyway. And if you want to get a snorkel get it from jimnybits now because it's a cheaper than getting one over here.

You're decision on calmini vs jimnybits, you'll end up replacing the struts and shocks anyways which will put you around the same price and probably replace the diff drop brackets as well. BUT you'll have the control arms with replaceable ball joints, heavy duty tie rod ends and poly bushes. Pretty much comes down to do you want the calmini arms..

EDIT: and get these save you a few $$$. $75 for Tie rod ends inner and outer and $280 for control arms. $155 saving
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Suzuki-Vitar ... cca&_uhb=1

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-TIE-ROD-EN ... b8f&_uhb=1

[fordem]

Mikey1st wrote:

So is it actually a "Problem" as such or just sounds like one?

Difficult question to answer - Suzuki thought it was enough of a problem to change the design either once or twice, to reduce the slipping, there is a bulletin out on it (and I believe the text of that bulletin is somewhere on this forum), but if I recall correctly the last paragraph of the bulletin is worded to suggest that some slippage is normal.

At some point it will get worse and slip with lower loads and you'll have to fix it if you want to use the 4WD - at what point that will be required will depend on the nature of your 4WD usage - my GV is a 98 and I'm slowly collecting the pieces I will need - free wheel front hubs will be required once you weld or replace the diff center), I have those, there's a nylon support bush that I will get sometime this year - it's not a high priority project for me.

I will most likely tack weld the clutch engaged - normal operation uses a bladder with low pressure (7psi) air to engage it.

[fordem]

Below is the text of the Bulletin on the front axle - you'll note this mentions a 99 Chevy Tracker - but it's the same vehicle.

Quote:

Technical report on known fault in front axle.

File In Section: 04 Driveline Axle
Bulletin No.: 01-04-19-003
Date: April, 2001

TECHNICAL
Subject:
Harsh Clunk Noise From Front Axle While in 4WD and During Turning Maneuvers (Replace Front Differential Case, Actuator and Side Bearings)

Models:
1999 Chevrolet Tracker with Four-Wheel Drive

Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh clunk or popping noise coming from the front axle. This condition is most apparent while driving in 4WD at low speeds on loose traction surfaces such as gravel or snow and turning right or left.

Cause
Inside the front differential case, the teeth of the free wheel axle hub may jump a tooth resulting in the noise.

Correction
A modification was made to the design of the front differential case, which should reduce the likelihood of the free wheel hub teeth from jumping.

Replace the front axle differential case, actuator and side bearings using the service procedure and part numbers as shown.

Important: With the new design differential case, the teeth may still jump under extreme torque load conditions, such as making tight turn maneuvers in 4WD on hard dry surfaces resulting in a similar noise. This noise is now considered to be a normal vehicle operating characteristic. Driving on high traction surfaces in 4WD is not necessary and contributes to excessive torque load on the front axle. Customers should be advised to shift into 2WD when driving on such surfaces.

[Mikey1st]

klutched wrote:

Mikey1st wrote:

How does this set up for the suspension sound instead of the Calmini kit??


Ebay lower control arms with tie rod ends $510 delivered - downside is these ball joints dont appear replaceable.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LOWER-CONTRO ... 7f1&_uhb=1

Jimnybits 2" / 50mm Extra Articulation Lift Kit - $825 delivered - has 4x springs, rear shocks, diff drops, extended rear brake hose and front strut spacers.
http://www.jimnybits.co.uk/shop/grand-v ... _1182.html

Dobinsons front struts from Outdoorauto4x4 - $345 delivered.
http://www.outdoorauto4x4.com/p/4901097 ... ruts-.html

$1680 total, compared to $1300 total for the Calmini Low Range also advised 3-6 week wait for the calmini which means 6-10 week wait to receive it .... grrrrr not sure what to do!!!!!

Does that cover everything?

Ive also ordered DBA rotors and bendex pads

TBH just get Diff Drops Brackets, Springs (2 or 3"), Camber Bolts, Panhard Relocator and the Procomp shocks from Jimnybits for $665AUD Delivered, you don't need the strut spacers, they'll just put unwanted stress on the CV's and also can get a brake line put on the rear here cheap anyway. And if you want to get a snorkel get it from jimnybits now because it's a cheaper than getting one over here.

You're decision on calmini vs jimnybits, you'll end up replacing the struts and shocks anyways which will put you around the same price and probably replace the diff drop brackets as well. BUT you'll have the control arms with replaceable ball joints, heavy duty tie rod ends and poly bushes. Pretty much comes down to do you want the calmini arms..

EDIT: and get these save you a few $$$. $75 for Tie rod ends inner and outer and $280 for control arms. $155 saving
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Suzuki-Vitar ... cca&_uhb=1

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-TIE-ROD-EN ... b8f&_uhb=1

.




THANK YOU!, i just ordered it all and managed to get the extended rear brake line from outdoorauto 4x4 for $30 with the dobinson front struts

[klutched]

Mikey1st wrote:

klutched wrote:

Mikey1st wrote:

How does this set up for the suspension sound instead of the Calmini kit??


Ebay lower control arms with tie rod ends $510 delivered - downside is these ball joints dont appear replaceable.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LOWER-CONTRO ... 7f1&_uhb=1

Jimnybits 2" / 50mm Extra Articulation Lift Kit - $825 delivered - has 4x springs, rear shocks, diff drops, extended rear brake hose and front strut spacers.
http://www.jimnybits.co.uk/shop/grand-v ... _1182.html

Dobinsons front struts from Outdoorauto4x4 - $345 delivered.
http://www.outdoorauto4x4.com/p/4901097 ... ruts-.html

$1680 total, compared to $1300 total for the Calmini Low Range also advised 3-6 week wait for the calmini which means 6-10 week wait to receive it .... grrrrr not sure what to do!!!!!

Does that cover everything?

Ive also ordered DBA rotors and bendex pads

TBH just get Diff Drops Brackets, Springs (2 or 3"), Camber Bolts, Panhard Relocator and the Procomp shocks from Jimnybits for $665AUD Delivered, you don't need the strut spacers, they'll just put unwanted stress on the CV's and also can get a brake line put on the rear here cheap anyway. And if you want to get a snorkel get it from jimnybits now because it's a cheaper than getting one over here.

You're decision on calmini vs jimnybits, you'll end up replacing the struts and shocks anyways which will put you around the same price and probably replace the diff drop brackets as well. BUT you'll have the control arms with replaceable ball joints, heavy duty tie rod ends and poly bushes. Pretty much comes down to do you want the calmini arms..

EDIT: and get these save you a few $$$. $75 for Tie rod ends inner and outer and $280 for control arms. $155 saving
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Suzuki-Vitar ... cca&_uhb=1

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-TIE-ROD-EN ... b8f&_uhb=1

.




THANK YOU!, i just ordered it all and managed to get the extended rear brake line from outdoorauto 4x4 for $30 with the dobinson front struts

Mint, so what'd it cost you all up?

BTW nice colour GV

[Mikey1st]

Uhh i believe it was $1540 all up, thanks to your links
I also read yours and Ninjas entire build the other day, made it hard for me to hold back on going crazy with buying stuff.

Now onto tyres, pretty keen on the Maxxis AT 980.... 245/75 16
$1270 for a set of 5 delivered.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/245-75-16-MA ... 6da&_uhb=1

[Mikey1st]

fordem wrote:

Below is the text of the Bulletin on the front axle - you'll note this mentions a 99 Chevy Tracker - but it's the same vehicle.

Quote:

Technical report on known fault in front axle.

File In Section: 04 Driveline Axle
Bulletin No.: 01-04-19-003
Date: April, 2001

TECHNICAL
Subject:
Harsh Clunk Noise From Front Axle While in 4WD and During Turning Maneuvers (Replace Front Differential Case, Actuator and Side Bearings)

Models:
1999 Chevrolet Tracker with Four-Wheel Drive

Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh clunk or popping noise coming from the front axle. This condition is most apparent while driving in 4WD at low speeds on loose traction surfaces such as gravel or snow and turning right or left.

Cause
Inside the front differential case, the teeth of the free wheel axle hub may jump a tooth resulting in the noise.

Correction
A modification was made to the design of the front differential case, which should reduce the likelihood of the free wheel hub teeth from jumping.

Replace the front axle differential case, actuator and side bearings using the service procedure and part numbers as shown.

Important: With the new design differential case, the teeth may still jump under extreme torque load conditions, such as making tight turn maneuvers in 4WD on hard dry surfaces resulting in a similar noise. This noise is now considered to be a normal vehicle operating characteristic. Driving on high traction surfaces in 4WD is not necessary and contributes to excessive torque load on the front axle. Customers should be advised to shift into 2WD when driving on such surfaces.

Thanks for this! I think ill hold off on doing anything toward it at the moment and will sus out my options if it gets worse.

[klutched]

Mikey1st wrote:

Uhh i believe it was $1540 all up, thanks to your links
I also read yours and Ninjas entire build the other day, made it hard for me to hold back on going crazy with buying stuff.

Now onto tyres, pretty keen on the Maxxis AT 980.... 245/75 16
$1270 for a set of 5 delivered.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/245-75-16-MA ... 6da&_uhb=1

Did you go 2 or 3" coils?

Should get muddies if it's just a weekender, heaps better offroad

[Mikey1st]

3 Inch coils, i was thinking the 40% road 60% dirt because it will be used for the odd drive to and from work (50klms)

[klutched]

Mikey1st wrote:

3 Inch coils, i was thinking the 40% road 60% dirt because it will be used for the odd drive to and from work (50klms)

Awesome ah yeah, I run around on muddies 99% of the time now. I only put a/ts on or stockos on if its raining :p

A decent set of A/Ts will be alright for you then.

[Mikey1st]

Committed to the AT 980's 1300 for 5 delivered

[Sco-tie]

Holy Diff gears batman! You're committed aren't you! This is gonna be a fast build up. You will need to do some chopping to fit the 245/75 and will have some rubbing on the chassis and cross member at full lock. Won't be as bad being ATs but can cut the lugs on muddies. You will be loosing a chunk of power going for such a large tyre so i would be looking for a set of 5.12 diffs, you can swap the into your GV diffs without having to put a locker or mess around with other axles. You will also probable be looking for some kind of bull bar to get a better approach angle depending on what you plan on driving. Start a build thread in the rigs of AZ as this has kind of moved on into that.

[Mikey1st]

I'm happy to do some chopping I was assuming that since I'm going 245/75 and stock is 235/65 it shouldnt affect the power that much? Would 235/75 be better?

What sort of $ would I be looking at for the 5:12 diffs? And any ideas where to get them?

And bill bar was next on the list, can't decide between JML or xrox but thought i would hold off on that for a little while and keep an eye on eBay incase one comes up cheap

[Sco-tie]

You can get bars custom made as you don't have air bags. Or outdoor auto does them and also look int the business section here for jml bars. I've never seen a gv bar for sale but you may have better luck in your state. 245/75 is WAY bigger than stock. A happy medium without dealing with gearing or out speedo by much is 225/75. Suss out how tyre sizes work and use a tyre calculator to see how much bigger they tyre is in inches. The first number is the width of the tyre in mm so 225 mm wide, extra width will give a wider footprint but also more rolling resistance. The second number if the aspect ratio that's a percentage of the width that is the height of the side wall. So stock is 27in 225/75 is 29.3in 245/75 is 30.5in. 225 fit nicely in the arches. If your after a similar size you can go 235/75 (29.9). Also mud tyres tend to be slightly bigger than the total size due to the tred. Chunky ats can also be slightly larger but not nearly as much.

[Mikey1st]

Ill make a build thred when I get home! thanks I think ill send the ebay ppl I ordered the tyres off a msg to change to 235/75 inatead of 245 ($60 less a tyre)

And hopfully b4t will ship me the 5:12 front diff he has for sale

[Sco-tie]

B4t doesn't like shipping. Or I would have grabbed it. You will also need a rear 12 bolt set as well

[Sco-tie]

You will only need the ring and pinion if he does ship it. The casing will be useless. And good luck with the tyres, it won't be the end of the world if you can't change the size.

[klutched]

Nah shouldnt get any rubbing on the front cross member on 245s. I don't get any with my 265/70s. I think b4ts the only one i knownwhondoes scrub on the front crossmember and thats with 31x10.5 silverstone xtremes?

Probably a good idea to get diff gears, 5.12 is overkill for 245s so go a 4.8 on a manual. I belive thats what b4t runs with his 31s and says its almost spot on.
Unless ypu have an auto then can only go to 5.12s.

Yeah you'll have to do a little chopchop probably in the front rear of the front guard and the front of the rear guard on your sill covers and probably on the rear as well haha...

Rear doesnt matter what you get 10 or 12 bolt both will be stronger enough.

As for 5.12s or gears I haven't paid more than $50 each end I don't think. I've picked up complete diffs with 5.12s for $50ea I believe.

[Sco-tie]

I've got 5.12 in a manual and only 225 and I don't think it's low enough. You need that low range in the manual or you will be using the clutch alot. 10 bolt will work but 12 is better so may as well hunt for the best one right off the bat. Each tyre will fit differently depending on tred and side wall patterns.

[Mikey1st]

Build thread has been made

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=45338&p=808948#p808948