[1DYX]

Got a lightbar thrown my way for a good price, so I chucked the spotties away and fitted it. (20" 100w)

Man are the headlights YELLOW!

So, seeing as the lenses are sandblasted a bit, and the silver is starting to flake of the reflectors, I was gonna chuck a new pair of 7" lights in the corners.
Narva's free form range looks OK. http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse ... mp-inserts

So, simple question...
What globes? The Narva's take the H4, which I'm fairly sure is a plug and play on the Sierra?

I was probably only gonne go the 60/55w route, rather than the 100/55, until I get around to an alternator swap.


No, I have no desire to HID it, even though everyone else seems to have gone that way.


Let me know, please, and have a safe long weekend. (if you're having one)
.

[Marko_SJ]

1DYX wrote:

Got a lightbar thrown my way for a good price, so I chucked the spotties away and fitted it. (20" 100w)

Man are the headlights YELLOW!

So, seeing as the lenses are sandblasted a bit, and the silver is starting to flake of the reflectors, I was gonna chuck a new pair of 7" lights in the corners.
Narva's free form range looks OK. http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse ... mp-inserts

So, simple question...
What globes? The Narva's take the H4, which I'm fairly sure is a plug and play on the Sierra?

I was probably only gonne go the 60/55w route, rather than the 100/55, until I get around to an alternator swap.


No, I have no desire to HID it, even though everyone else seems to have gone that way.


Let me know, please, and have a safe long weekend. (if you're having one)
.

Do the Royce "bright eyes" upgrade.

Gets more juice through the power string than the stock setup. Gets more light out of brighter bulbs which won't be an improvement on the stock stuff.

[MadMuz]

Check you havent got 24 volt bolbs in them? Check earths are good too

[Jezzer]

You could go with the Truck-lite LED head lights i have been looking at them for mine. they retail for $250NZ. they put them in jeeps in the USA

[alien]

I use Phillips +100 Globes in mine and they're great:
http://www.invisionsales.com/lighting/p ... s/see-more

They have a cooler colour than most globes which is weird at first because its not orangey... but they are a significant improvement over a standard H4.

I've not done royce's wiring loom upgrade either, but i have always planned on doing it at some point.

[jdk81]

IPF housings from ARB, were about $60 each.
Lights, as above, philips +100% lights about $36 posted (ebay, sent from EU).

Loom upgrade

[1DYX]

Maybe Alien and I could get a "group" buy on the looms....

( have already PM'd royce on this)

24v bulbs: nope, definately 12v, just old.

Them Truck-lite's are interesting. Thanks for that.

Will have a looksee re the IPF housings, cheers for that.

.

[murcod]

Redo your wiring first and go from there.

(Regardless of which route you choose - upgrading bulbs or new head lights- you need decent wiring with minimal voltage drop for them all to work properly.)

Osram Nightbreakers are also worth a look for a brighter / whiter light. They made a noticeable improvement in our XL-7 (it uses H4 bulbs as well.) The newer model Nightbreaker is supposedly better again.

Here's a test I did back in 2008:
Stock Koito bulbs high beam

Night breaker high beam

Stock Koito low beam

Night breaker low beam


With the high beam, the Nightbreaker is a lot tighter focused and better for long distance vision at night. They can be tricky to align though- for the same reason.

[3cyl]

There's a warning on the Narva Free form box saying not to use powerful bulbs. The lens and reflector are plastic and will end up deteriorating with the heat. If you wanted to use 100w bulbs, you'd be better off using glass light fittings. When I wired the LJ I used a headlight relay and bigger cable for the headlights (like the upgrade kits) and when I bought the Narva Freeform lights I used the Phillips 55/60w plus 100 bulbs. I have the same 7" round lights in the Landrover only in glass, also with the same upgraded wiring and a 100A alternator and 100W bulbs (not plus 100 though) and there isn't a lot of difference. Upgrading the loom would give the best improvement, you'd be surprised how much better a 12v halogen bulb works with full alternator voltage.

[1DYX]

Royce!? you get my PM?

[ChrisRinai]

I have the Narva free form H4 headlights in mine, a lot better lighting than the stock sealed beams. I also fitted Hella metal headlight buckets at the same time though to seal them up a bit more. using 60/55 globes.

[madmacca]

1DYX wrote:

Royce!? you get my PM?

see this thread 1DYX
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=43238

dont think Royce will be thinking of you at the moment (Royce correct me if I am wrong )

[1DYX]

I am aware of royce's battle, thought i saw him on here in the last couple weeks.

Tyring to sort supply of Bright Eyes... was all...

[hooki]

I'm pretty sure he makes them to order, so he may not be available to make them at this time

I've still got my kit sitting here which I bought off him about 18 months ago...I just have to finish my sierra so I can install it

[1DYX]

Royce got in contact. Thanks.

Supercheap doing the Narva complete conversion kit for $90 this month, from $119.00

[fergy]

these say they are ADR approved
they are a little expensive
put some people will pay more for a set of spottys
most of my night driving is done on low beam and I would like to sort a good low beam




These LED headlamps are the perfect solution for poor lighting on trucks, 4wd's, motorcycles & classic cars. Unlike the other LED headlamps on the market, the Narva unit doesn't have ugly bulb tubes & filaments which detract from the appearance of a vehicle. These lights are made in the USA by Trucklite. The 1st generation of these lights was originally manufactured for the US military who tried & tested them in rigorous conditions. Trucklite have taken the already proven generation 1 lamps and improved the light pattern to produce the ultimate performance headlamp.

These lights feature an impact resistant polycarbonate lens to protect from rocks & debris. The housing is made from military grade, die cast aluminium that is corrosion & impact resistant.

Other features include -

*Excellent heat handling properties making suitable for open & closed buckets.

*Multi-volt (suitable for both 12v & 24v) systems.

*1.8A at low beam & 3.6A at high beam current draw is half that of a halogen system leaving more power available for devices & accessories.

*IP68 rating.

*ADR & 'E' approved.

*H4 connector for easy retrofit.

*Park light.

72102
http://www.westcoshop.com.au/115/images/72102XLRG.JPG

[fordem]

Trucklite makes a RHD headlight???

[fergy]

Yeah seems they make normal stuff

[fergy]

On special at west shop.com.au ATM. $399.00

[alien]

$400 is a LOT of coin to spend when one water crossing could render them useless... IP68 is still only "up to a specified pressure" - if you have had the lights on and they're warm, and you smash into some cold water, they're probably going to suck some in and fog up... one of my two IP68 spotlights has done this just recently, and the water i went through only just went over them.

IMO its a scary proposition =)

[1DYX]

Still, a nice light if you want to spend the coin.


One of my 2 led lightbars did that, and all they got was wet in the rain.
Company did replace it though, and the new one has been fine.

[fergy]

my spottys are IP67
can purchase them through work so don't see the cost
if I went for a hid conversion what do you think the cost would be?
is the brighteyes thing still available?

[neofitou]

There are lots of universal LED headlight options now. Only a few seem say if they are RH/LH bias.

I haven't seen good ones that are less than $400 a pair until I just did a quick search now..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Truck-Lite-2727 ... 1437873317 $330USD a pair ($55 delivey).

Anyone know if these ones point the wrong way or is just an adjustment like the old school 7" globes..?

[Scrawny]

fergy wrote:

is the brighteyes thing still available?

Short answer is yes

[fergy]

Great will look into it

[mazdaspater]

If you are not going to go HID, fit relays to give decent battery power to lights (like Bright Eyes) First.
You will be amazed at the difference full voltage and a decent earth will make, and if you go H4 without them you will be sadly disappointed with the difference over standard.
I think my headlights got worse going to H4 55/100W without relays from standard sealed beams. High beam was a dull orange.

On the H4 Plastic lens issue, Do you sit on highs for long periods stationary? If not 55/100 causes no problems in plastic. I would not sit on highs for long periods stationary with uprated globes though.
I had 55/100W in my Subaru with headlight covers for four years running the whole time the engine was on without problems.

Does anyone make a higher wattage sealed beam? Mine keep sucking water in. Maybe I need to stay out of meter deep mud.

[fergy]

Yeah cheers
Looked into LEDs more and then thought if I'm gunna spend $700 on lights I might as well blow $150 and put good h4s into it and see If I'm happy with the outcome
Went to put them in last night but not a 5min job as spottys are in the way of the grill screws so will wait till I have more time and I can do the relays at the same time

[mazdaspater]

Grill screws are for girls. Zipties are for men. You need to be able to pull the headlights out, fill them with water and rinse the mud out before it splashes onto your H4s and cracks them. without tools.

[striker99]

alien wrote:

I use Phillips +100 Globes in mine and they're great:
http://www.invisionsales.com/lighting/p ... s/see-more

They have a cooler colour than most globes which is weird at first because its not orangey... but they are a significant improvement over a standard H4.

I've not done royce's wiring loom upgrade either, but i have always planned on doing it at some point.

I have a similar Phillips set on my Jimny, the upgrade over the stock headlights seemed pretty good to me.

[fergy]

mazdaspater wrote:

Grill screws are for girls. Zipties are for men. You need to be able to pull the headlights out, fill them with water and rinse the mud out before it splashes onto your H4s and cracks them. without tools.

you havnt done the breather mod for your H4s