http://www.dbautotech.com.au/I use the above ^^
Good bloke and really know's his shit. You won't be able to engineer the tires. period. 32-33 is just not possible to be engineered on suzuki diffs. However if you were to install lux or bundy diffs, then you could get away with 33's. Although, the trade off wouldnt be worth it imo, and it would also cross the line for mod class modifications I believe.
As far as I am aware you cant get extended shackles plated, plus, why would you want to. If you're building a "comp" rig, then do it right, and dont use bandaid solution mods like extended shackles. They arent needed, and don't have any benefit in the competition you will be running.
My advice would be the following:
-33" bfg km2
-6.5's, roctoy ring brace n' cradle & just cruising tcase lift (if you are running a BL then you would be silly not to add this too, although, personally, I would only run the bare minimum required to fit a g16B under a 1.3L bonnet, and cut the tunnel the required amount to allow the tcase lift)
-Chromos axles in the front, Gusset and brace housing, Shave and guard the pumpkin
-Sierra based Floater rear, Shave & guard the pumpkin
-RUF, standard Shackles
-See Carols springs at Wacol & get some custom leaf packs made up, in the front I would run a pack with 3-4 leaves, arc length would be that of a 2" efs rear spring, but set it to standard height. This way you are only getting about 2" lift from the length rather then 3-4" from a combination of length & lift, in the rear I would run the same spring, but about 100mm longer eye to eye (you may struggle to get this to fit on a SWB chassis, as i've only done it to a LWB.) I paid $150ish per spring, for custom packs, seeing as new springs are already $120-$150, it was crazy to not just make my own. If you want to lose even more height, you can run the spring reverse eye.
- Virtual lift til there's virtually nothing left, haha
- G16B EFI, if budget allows. G13a is fine, but they love their hills in TT so the carby could cause some reliability issues.
-Flat belly skid plate, RHS sills, at the very least, a rub bar along the edges of the roof (although I would probably go full exo), fuel tank guard & steel bull/bumper bars.
That would be the build I would go with if I wanted to compete in MOD.
You should be able to find, build, or buy every thing mentioned above really easy, all the information is out there and I havent really put anything there to controversial. IF you want a good build up to follow, have a look at Tanshi's fathers white zook. Thats very similar to what I have described above (give or take a few mods) and it's a wildly capable and amazingly built car. If you emulate it, you will have a car, that, if handled by a good driver & navi, would be a real contender.
