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Vehicle: 2002 Suzuki XL7

Post Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 8:08 am 
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Hi guys,

have developed a small problem, first started happening when turning a corner at a intersection, it first sound like a screwdriver against a fan blade then went away and came back after towing a trailer for a weekend.

Now it makes this, i have isolated it to the diff center after removing wheels, drums etc. It ticks when slowly turning the wheels. And gets loud like the vid when under load, the more power going through the diff the louder it is. When just coasting a long with the accelerator down it goes quite, when take the foot of the accelerator its as loud as when accelerating. Diff operates as normal, just hell embaresingly noisy!

I have a feeling either one of the teeth are shot to bits or a bearing is gone, just wondering what others thoughts would be.

I can get a diff center reasonbly cheap "$375" but before i take it all apart and buy the diff thought i would post here first.

Also how hard is it to take the rear axle out without a axle puller? some vids just show removing of the 4 bolts then a slight hammer and it comes out.But they always cut video out (prob the part where they sware and curse at it)


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Post Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 1:46 pm 
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Ever had a deck of cards in the back? Just check there isn't one missing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tvLe-_TPRY

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 6:03 pm 
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I have an XL7 diff... Well I will have once I go get it back.

If its no use to me its yours.


PM me for a price.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:45 am 
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Thanks,

I had one lined up at a local wrecker for 340 of a 2004 model xl-7.

I managed to get the diff off just having trouble removing the axles, read need a slide hammer.

When draining the new oil it had metal splinters in it and some small flakes so safe to say it stuffed (but not completly)

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 10:29 am 
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Some metal in it is normal wear its chunks that are bad

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 8:26 am 
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Found this after no luck trying to find a slide hammer unless want to spend 200 for something i will prob only use once.

May try it tonight, main thing to be carefull of is not to damage the threads. if look fast forward to 2min30 where he uses the brake drum to remove the axle.


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Post Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 8:45 am 
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yer i cant watch that video, but either a drum brake or the entire wheel works as a slide hammer. I dont think ive managed to get an axel out without using either the drum brake or wheel as a slide hammer. I prefer to use the wheel as its more to grab onto (and 4wd wheels/tyres are much heavier than a drum brake)

Just slide the drum brake off, put the wheel back on, put 2 wheel nuts back on maybe 3 threads, push the wheel back onto the face of the axel, and then pull towards you in an agressive manner..... repeat untill axel comes out....

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 8:48 am 
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thanks, did think of using the wheel last night but being aloy wasnt to shure about it.

If drum doesnt work will use wheel, maybe the spare one.

Have diff comming hopefully today.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 7:23 pm 
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What ya end up paying for the diff?

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 8:25 pm 
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405 delivered car done 120, 000k and 2004 model,

4 knocks with the drum backwards the axles came out was quite easy.

May look at getting prop shaft and transfer of same car in a few weeks. It was 995 for whole transmision, would be good if was 6 speed?

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 9:51 pm 
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I know that wreck! Very pricey for bits though, but thats SA for you :(

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 8:52 am 
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SA is expensive sometimes its a fair bit cheaper to get it delivered from QLD or perth.

last thing i got from a wreck was the 4x4 air acuator that cost 65 and no guarantee it would work.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 10:26 am 
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Yea those actuators are useless should pressurise it and lock it in engaged or weld its clutch then run fwh. It only has to let you down once and it will ruin your day unless you have a bike pump lol

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 6:26 pm 
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I can build you a front diff without the air actuator and post it to you. That is as long as its the alloy diff.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 10:26 pm 
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Front is cast iron, failed last time on river crossing but the replacement I made sure it was sealed,

Got diff off pinion gear is missing two teeth. Just wondering how that could happen? Ring gear looks perfectly fine and so does bearings. Maybe oil wasn't getting to it. Did have right amount and seemed ok but had a feeling had a touch of water as towards end of draining it was quite thin and clear.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 6:59 am 
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Image

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:17 am 
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Its a 4.3 ratio yeah? 10/43?
If so, I have one that's broken just like that in my shed.

If I were to guess, I suspect the pinion teeth are too thin, and are the weakest link.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 8:20 am 
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Yeah 4:3 pinion does look like the weakest link.

Will keep the diff and find replacement pinion if not to expensive, hopefully stronger one. And diff locker as everything else looks good

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:41 am 
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I don't think you can replace just the pinion gear. The pinion and crown wheel need to be done together. Thou you might be able to get them both lapped.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 12:10 pm 
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Keep the new ring and pinion as a set.
You can change just the pinion, but they are a matched pair, and mixing them will rapidly destroy them.

If you have increased tyre sizes, you might be better off going to a different ratio 4.625, 4.875, or 5.12

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 3:56 pm 
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If your running 225/75/16 tyres then some 4.8:1 diff ratios will be perfect. It will correct your speedo and put your overall gearing back to stock.

I run 247/75/16 tyres with 4.8s and gearing is pretty good. 5.12 would be better but meh.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 3:58 pm 
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5.12 FTW! I have them on 225 and still dont think they are low enough

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 7:58 am 
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Well diff is back in, when go bigger tyres will look at changing the gears in the diffs. so 5.12? was going 245 / 75 R16 with -13 offset got quoted a decent price for dick cepek tyres and steel wheels. But better start saving. Current bridgestones have done 60,000k so far and still have around 40,000 left better tyres than what i thought they would be :?

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:03 am 
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Yep 5.12 are you best bet if you bother changing the gearing. That with 245s will be sweet. Does seen dick cepek are the way to go for offset and fittment. Start saving then by the time your current ones wear out you will be sweet for it

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:40 am 
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Cool, any ideas where to get the gears from, low range have them but for samarai, then reading up vitaras using XL-7 diffs with new 5.89 ratios because of being cast iron. The low range in the XL is quite low, crawling pace next to a 2.5L GV the xl goes about half the speed, but then again it was a auto.

One thing i noticed about the 2004 diff that was differnt from the failed 2002 the wheels spin in same direction from first gear, old one was opisate unless in 3rd gear and rotating quite fast or if you stop one wheel and manually spin it then slowly will build up speed to the same as the other wheel. But if rotate 2004 by hand the wheels will spin in oposate directions.

Image

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 11:30 am 
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Watchoo talkin bout Willis?

steve wrote:
suzukis have a circle spin ratio, they generate their horse power in a reverse circlular motion, the motor spins the power through the center diff and it generates more power by spinning the other way from the drive shaft.

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