[JrZook]

It would be the easiest. Tho if in doubt with your oil supply I would go whole hog and remove the rocker cover and check without one.

[ednorris]

just checked the cam via the oil cap after i have i had started it up and let it idle for a few mins. It seems to be sloshing enough oil but i haven't given it a test drive yet. it has lost power before after about 5 mins of driving it. I'm going to try taking a bit of oil out to see if maybe i had put too much oil in it and the oil had gone foamy or something after driving it. I'm currently using the Dipstick off of my jimny so maybe the max level of oil is not accurate for my motor.

Additionally I have a nagging suspicion that the guys may have given me a head that was blown. the water outlet had gunk, and when i restarted the engine today it lugged quite a bit, coughed a couple times and let out a great pool of white smoke before idling fine.

i don't think i have ran the engine long enough to see the tell tale signs of chocolate milk oil and murky coolant.
There is a bit of gunk in the coolant but i'm hoping that is from the gunk that was in the head before i started the engine again

anyways thanks for the help so far and ill try to keep everyone posted

Dean

[ednorris]

update.

So i started the jimny up with the oil cap off.

cough sputter lug lug lug, white smoke, then goes fine.

I checked out under the cap, there seemed to be enough oil sloshing around. I quick did a lap around the block, then let it idle for about 5 min. while i adjust my tire pressure at the local servo, still plenty of oil sloshing around. On the way back home as i put the clutch in the engine starts to bog again . As it bogs (around 500rpm), the oil pressure light comes on. I check the oil cap while the car is bogging and the oil light is on definitely not enough oil slopping around.

I had guessed that maybe i had put too much oil in the vehicle. My dipstick is from my old engine, and i wasn't quite sure if it would give me an accurate reading so i removed some oil.

The oil had a bit of a sheen to it, it was quite a bit darker than when it was new. It was opaque when put in a clear plastic bottle, but translucent when about 1cm deep in my oil pan. it was about 4 liters of synthetic 10w50 mixed with about 1 liter of semisyntetic 10w50.

I am suspecting my oil mixing foolishness is responsible for the sheen on the oil, but there is this nagging voice in the back of my head telling me that it is the beginnings of chocolate milk.

when my engine cools down i think i will check the coolant to see if i can spot any oil.

other than that, can anyone think of any reason why the rpms might drop after the vehicle heats up a bit?

I am wondering if it could possibly be a over cooling issue. does this make sense to anyone?

alternatively i suspect that maybe the oil pickup is bunged up with crap or maybe the fuel filter. i am considering that maybe the head gasket was reused or miss installed or something

does anyone know if there is a specific system that reduces the fuel requirements after the vehicle warms up?

thanks again for your help,

Dean

[JrZook]

Mate I think you just have to step back and have a proper think about it. Seems like you are pointing to all sorts of things at once. The oil light coming on at ~500RPM may be due to insufficient engine speed to produce the oil pressure for the light to shut off. If you put too much oil in it to cause any issues you would most likely be blowing huge plumes of white smoke all the time and the smell would make that quite easy to detect

ednorris wrote:

cough sputter lug lug lug, white smoke, then goes fine.

^does this happen after its run and shutdown to cool? When it happens again on start up shut it off immediately before it has time to clear and check your plugs. If its ingested coolant then it will show up on the plug. Has the engine check light come on?

[ednorris]

Thanks mate! I'll see if it does it again tomorrow, and if so i'll check for coolant.

the engine light hasn't come on, (apart from when the key is in the on position but the engine is not started. which i am pretty sure is normal)

just had a go at cleaning out my intake manifold, which made no noticeable difference.

Engine seemed to lug again as the heat went just past mid point up.

thanks again for the advice

[shakes]

Pull the oil sensor pickup in the side of the block - if it's picking up it'll make a mess which you'll be happy to clean, if it's not your problem may be lower.

I'm still suspect that your oil pickup isn't working as it should if the wreckers were who organised it. - You can also successfully argue the 3months again from the time you got the new motor, more so if it was their faulty work.

[ednorris]

Im pretty sure my oil pump is picking up some oil...

When cold, i can see oil getting brought up to my cam shaft and sloshing around heaps, as it gets hotter, less so.

So i cleaned out my intake manifold and throttle body, the revs are now a bit more in the healthy range, about 750-1000ish.

The oil light problem is still there however. The longer i drive the car, the higher the rpm required to maintain my oil pressure.

I'm beginning to think that it might be oil pump pressure release valve. It could be that it is some how stuck open a crack, and as the oil gets hotter, it is less viscous and more oil is able to get through the valve.

I'm considering removing the oil pan and having a check, also checking my oil pickup at the same time.

does anyone have any recommendations as to how to remove an oil pan?

[ednorris]

also does anyone have any recommendations regarding checking the pressure reducing valve? according to the Field Service Manual it looks like i should be able to remove it with a cir clip puller but i'm not sure.

thanks again

[ednorris]

well i found my problem...

The pressure relief valve was stuck open in the oil pump. the stupid thing is so stiff i can't even remove it. so far my plan is to find some type of expanding bolt to expand then pull it out.

[missmyljdaze]

mate - I would be dropping the whole mess back on the mob that sold you the engine, and hitting them up for a replacement.

if the oil pump has been bypassing,enough to stuff the cam, you might have a lot more damage to worry about.

stephen

[henno]

^^ This. Warranty periods aren't the sort of thing you can sheepishly stall your way through and then wipe you hands of the problem as soon as the clock ticks past the three month window. You paid actual cash money for a product; you are still yet to be provided that product in my view.

[JrZook]

If that oil pressure relief valve is causing the low oil pressure that is actually in the engine "lugging" as you say when it gets hot then severe damage has most likely occurred...

[ednorris]

yheah.... i would really like them to replace the motor actually but now that i have unstuck the stuck valve so I'm not sure if they are going to go off my word that the valve was stuck in the first place..

Should have read your posts before i unstuck my valve....

I recon I have to put the oil pan and such motor back in anyways to get the thing to Sydney.

As for lugging, the engine really wasn't sounding too bad its just that the oil light came on, indicating to me that the engine didn't have enough oil pressure so I assumed that the vehicle was low on the revs.

anyways i'll put it back in, see if the oil problem is solved and do a compression test.

At the moment that seems like a better alternative to pulling my motor, driving it to Sydney, then arguing with the wreckers that i used to have a problem, but i fixed it, so now i want a new motor because the problem that i fixed may or may not have damaged other parts i am not exactly sure of.

Sounds like a major headache.

But i sincerely appreciate your sympathy.

Anyways hopefully this will be the end of one painful saga and the beginning of a new one that involves me and four wheels spinning mud in all directions

[ednorris]

p.s if anyone is ever removing a stuck pressure relief valve, i had success using a dynabolt for an 12mm hole if i was to remove one again, i might use a dynabolt for a 10mm hole.

Worked a treat.