[Jezza86]

is there a write up yet?
i just bought the last jimny FF kit off joe to realize i have absolutely no idea what i'm doing...

[zukenutter]

^^^ LOL

I'm glad you bought it so I don't have to think about buying it any longer

[jimny_timmy]

I thought I got the last one lol

[kenn]

zukenutter wrote:

^^^ LOL

I'm glad you bought it so I don't have to think about buying it any longer

He will make more if you want.

[zukenutter]

I do like the idea of rear discs… full floater is just extra cool factor but handy nonetheless
I want my engine upgrade more, but I have a spare rear housing which I can build up FF just because I'll do the engine then give it some thought, thanks for letting my know Kenn

[Jezza86]

i love the idea of rear discs, but im over my head at the moment with how to actually make it happen/ what parts i need to start hunting for.

[Jezza86]

so it appears a few people have compiled this info before to make their decisions
so far my shopping list is (for a non-abs 09built jx)

new vitara front Hubs, solid rotors and front wheel bearings,
drive flanges from 98-06'ish Grand Vitara SQ420 & SQ625.
Nissan Pintara station wagon callipers.
brake line t piece
brake hose mounting brackets
brake hard line to be made to fit
GU patrol rear brake lines

still researching so feel free to share or fill any gaps you see

[31zook]

Or,
Glant calipers
BenTs Brake line kit- will need to modify to work properly.
JoeBlows kit
Hubs or drive flanges
And a couple dollars down at the local brake shop.
My set up is for cutting brakes so shouldn't be followed exactly.

[31zook]

Don't PM me about the kit, just ask here and ill answer as much as possible so everything isnt written 500 times.

[Jezza86]

Cheers Wilso
Jimny_timmy and i have paid for JML kits. as far as we are aware the kit is for the Pintara setup however thats not to say im ruling out the BenT kits at all.


i think tims might be ABS, mine is non ABS. both vehicles are 09 built
my understanding was hubs would be weaker then flanges, but may have other applications sort of like your DIG unit.

what parts did you end up getting from Ben?
how do you find the bias front to rear and did you have any issues with this?

cheers

jez

[31zook]

Okay, you will probably need to trial a set of jimny hubs on the back so you have an ABS sensor hole/signal gear.

And hubs might be weaker, but it is a case also of having less moving parts for things to go wrong.

My brakes were aweful but once you hook the bias valve up thwy come up awesome.

[31zook]

BenTs kit has holders for the hand brake cabling , brake line Tee piece, and a few other odds and ends.

[jimny_timmy]

Jezza doesn't have abs but I'll be the Guinea pig for the front jimny hub stuff. Man I'm glad you live close Wilsy... This is really going over my head

[Jezza86]

let me know when your doing yours tim, it may actually be worth flying down to check it out and mabie get 2 of some things custom made while im down.

[tanshi]

We are working on a range of floaters at the moment. Not trying to cut Joe's Grass at all, but our instructions may be of some help to those fitting Joe's kit.

[Jezza86]

Nissan Pintara wagon R31 should be the go, not the U12
<added> for the pintara Wagon R31 calipers and R31 skyline calipers both share the same piston and caliper rebuild kits, have handbreak levers and pad number DB1106,
interesting. i wonder what measurements i need to confirm.

[Mike57]

Jezza86 I sent you the notes so I hope they got through. It was a large file size.

Jimny-Timmy, keep us posted on the conversion with ABS please, I decided not to become the guinea pig. Are you planning on having it certified?

Mike

[jimny_timmy]

I'm gonna look into getting my whole car engineered in the next 6 months so I'll be making some enquiries soon

[Jezza86]

yes they did thanks mike very helpfull.

jimny_timmy wrote:

I'm gonna look into getting my whole car engineered in the next 6 months so I'll be making some enquiries soon

i should too but catch is you have to know exactly what your doing to apply in the NT

[Bugsta]

I am still working on mine. Mostly slackness, and time to think about overcoming the next obstacle. I have had to do many modifications.

A list of what I have had to do...
- Source more parts than was in the original list, and from various places
- Remove old and press new bearings into hubs
- Remove the brass insert from the stub as my housings appear to be bent and were fouling on the axles causing massive centre offset. Not ideal but by far the easiest solution
- Cut down the brake pipe bracket to allow stub bolts to fit
- Grind back outer edge of ABS sensor mount (on housing) to allow caliper plate to fit snug
- I decided to weld the heads of the caliper plate (to housing) bolts, to the caliper plate, to make fitment (and removing) easier ... many, many times
- Strip and clean calipers as far as not removing the internal circlip. I was advised I'd never get it back on due to the spring tension in the assembly. In any case, I did not have circlip pliers long enough to dismantle
- Measure and mark position of tone ring and collar with axle in correct position by way of circlip channel at edge of stub
- Press ABS tone ring collars on to the axles
- Press ABS tone rings on to the collars
- Install new chassis brake hose and T-piece. I wanted to find a fixed style Y junction and a reverse fitting that would make the assembly more secure but I scoured supplier books and the internet with no luck
- Bend and shape brake pipes across axle housing ready for connection to calipers
That's about where I am at.
Just have to...
- Reassemble the calipers with new rubber kits sourced from a brake specialist. Repco and Bursons did not have these
- Shorten and bend the handbrake cable arm.
- Insert axle and seal
- Seal caliper plate to housing
- Seal stub to caliper plate
- Install hubs, nut, spacers and axle circlip
- Install and seal drive flange
- Install rotor and caliper and pads
- Connect brake pipes and bleed

I have also had a full set of stainless braided hoses made up by HEL Performance to reduce hose flex under pressure. I believe this is where some of the braking effectiveness goes. I soaked the calipers, rotors and stubs in my Molasses brew for a few weeks to start with rust free components and then painted the calipers and rotors with black caliper paint to freshen them up. I coated the non-paintable components with Lanoline spray grease to prevent re-rusting.

Having not done the final assembly yet, not sure if I have missed anything.

Last thing...

31zook wrote:

My brakes were aweful but once you hook the bias valve up they come up awesome.

Where do I get one of these and where does it go?

[zukenutter]

Bugsta wrote:

Last thing...

31zook wrote:

My brakes were aweful but once you hook the bias valve up they come up awesome.

Where do I get one of these and where does it go?

Wouldn't your ABS make this unnecessary?

[Jezza86]

i think* the r31 calipers are going to work, however it would be fantastic if someone had a pic of a installed set of callipers to show the position of the cabling for the handbrake!
cheers

Jez

[Bugsta]

Just a note on the handbrake cables. As an interim measure to get the handbrake functional, as I do not have a welder suitable to weld the thick steel of the caliper mounted handbrake cable brackets, I removed the centralising bracket under the hump and drilled a hole toward the back, allowing this bracket to move forward 25mm. This game me 25mm of slack in the lever cable and therefore 25mm at each caliper connection. I will need to severely shorten the caliper brackets as the LHS cable was resting against the exhaust and both cable brackets were resting on the radius arms. I have zip tied it to the radius arm until I am able to sort this but it has put quite a tight bend in the cable. I can't leave it like this.

I should be able to drill a hole toward the front of the centralising bracket to move it backward and take up the extra slack created by shortening the caliper mounted cable brackets. I actually don't see why it would not be possible to manufacture a replacement bracket allowing more movement back.

I purchased a cheap set of spanners and ground down the tips and sides of the 14mm open end to allow it to easily fit around the nut securing the rear cable to the centralising bracket.

[Jezza86]

So i have been told i have my breaks should work, which leaves me with a shopping list
2 vit front wheel hubs http://www.suzistore.com.au/onlinestore ... etail.html
2 Vit spindles, (wreckers or on here 2nd hand?
2 vit front wheel bearings http://www.suzistore.com.au/onlinestore ... etail.html
2 jimny solid discs http://www.suzistore.com.au/onlinestore ... etail.html

break pads? use the skyline ones?
other misc break stuff i may be able to get locally, will check before starting the work but.

[Bugsta]

I would expect the spindles to be accompanied with the hubs and perhaps even discs. I have used Vitara discs. Not sure if thee is any difference.

[Jezza86]

I thought vit discs wouldnt suit 15 inch rims. Assuming their larger diameter? My problem is I have never seen or pulled apart a vit front end so im basically going by what I interpret from what im told

[tanshi]

Vitaras came with 15 inch wheels as standard so they are fine

[Teracis]

Also I'm pretty sure that all the kits were designed to work with the standard vitara front disc rotors. The offset of the hat is important for obvious reasons, if you're not sure why now you will see it if you take a look at the parts and how they go together/work. Below is some very important information that may save you some money.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION! Apparently the vitara disc rotors (and sierra) have a 107mm center hole as standard. This should fit the vitara hubs snug. THERE ARE SOME 108mm VITARA HUBS according to the dba website, "may be 108mm" was something I found later on. I happened to get a set of these 108mm hubs I can't tell you what kind of vehicle this was off, possibly a 2L vitara instead.

Now so you can have a laugh at me, everything I had read said the hubs should be 107mm and the brake rotors should be 107mm, lacking a vernier caliper at home I didn't attempt to measure these. The rotor didn't want to go on to the hub, no problem I thought, probably just a tight fit and might have some gunk in there but it should go on with force. Lets just say they flex a bit and then crack. My own stupid fault I just wanted the thing to fit on there, once I realised it was a full 1mm out and that's why I'd broken the rotor I felt stupid for not noticing, but learn from my mistake and check first, the rotors shouldn't be hard to fit over the hubs, measure your hub center if you can, if you have to, get the center of the disc turned out to suit.

[jimny_timmy]

The early model jimnys (g13b for sure and possibly up to 06 m13a) have the 107. The newer model jimnys have 108.3 (if my memory serves me right). I found this out the hard way

[zukenutter]

jimny_timmy wrote:

The early model jimnys (g13b for sure and possibly up to 06 m13a) have the 107. The newer model jimnys have 108.3 (if my memory serves me right). I found this out the hard way

X2