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Post Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 5:35 pm 
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Just come across this..... Anyone have any more info?

http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl= ... 59&ndsp=17

Sounds interesting

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Post Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 5:56 pm 
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http://www.bits4vits.co.uk/store/hybrid ... g_183.html

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Post Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 6:16 pm 
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That's what I'll be working on soon, that's why we got those outers off you ;)

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Post Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 6:39 pm 
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cool let us know how you go.

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Post Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 7:56 pm 
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God dang thats rough!

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Post Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 8:13 pm 
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Cutting and shutting = heaps of work... you'd want to trust your welding/er.

I looked at the write-up on B4V ages ago and decided it was more work than it was worth when a Hilux adaption would be simpler and would just need bolt-in off the shelf replacements.

Lux gear not an option for GVs?

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Post Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 8:25 pm 
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It is but who makes the brass adaptor bush?

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Post Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 6:56 am 
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Isn't Bent doing a kit soon

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Post Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 1:58 pm 
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Apparently. Haven't heard any progress since the trial kit went out.

Add it to the growing list of people who are supposedly developing a kit and then nothing comes of it... :(

Surely it can't be that hard to find an engineering/fab shop that could do a brass bush. If someone with better measuring gear than me can post some dimensions maybe the rest of us would have a chance.

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Post Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 2:03 pm 
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I saw that BenT kit on a Vit over Easter. Seemed to be working out okay and the CVs are easy to get hold of.

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Post Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 2:42 pm 
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Eggzackery. So when are they available for shuppung across the dutch?

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Post Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 3:50 pm 
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My understanding is that to use the bent kit or any version of hilux cvs that you first have to complete the Hagen widening mod? If this is the case then it's a massive PITA!!!

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Post Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 4:49 pm 
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mudmav wrote:
My understanding is that to use the bent kit or any version of hilux cvs that you first have to complete the Hagen widening mod? If this is the case then it's a massive PITA!!!



Unless you have a GV...... Hmm may have to give this some serious thought

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Post Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 5:32 pm 
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Nope, Ive looked at doing the lux cv's but it will mean lots of custom stuff and the CV will hit the Diff drop on the Drivers side.

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Post Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 6:58 pm 
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So I have a 2004 GV!

Does this mean I would not have to do the Hagen mod?

Also I have diff drops and it looks from the above post like that will be an issue

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Post Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 7:51 am 
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If they came with new stub shafts with the lux bolt pattern u wouldn't need to widen the front
Even if u did caster bushes might be enough like Chris did

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Post Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 8:00 am 
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I wouldn't ever do the hagen mod again
I would cut the arm and wild in a new c section for the ball joint out and forward
That way u don't have the coil set problems

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Post Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 6:35 pm 
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Hagen for SE Vits, not sure about GVs. SV apparently they don't need it.

I didn't have any issues with the coil seat, dunno why.

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Post Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 6:53 pm 
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Might not have done as far as me

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Post Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 7:15 pm 
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Nope GV/SV doesn't need HWM because they are already around 40mm wider.

Lux CV's on the GV is possible if you can make a custom drivers side diff drop bracket. But still not 100% sure if you can even make a diff drop to clear. That's why I'll be going down the explorer/ranger CV path. Apparently they're 2x stronger than stock so we'll see how they go.

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Post Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 7:22 pm 
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I think redesigning the drivers side to use a hilux CV is better than that link ^^

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Post Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 8:00 pm 
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Yeah I know but lux cv's are a lot more exy too. Gotta get adapters and shit, will get costly unless you can do it all yourself. I would buy a kit if there was one and get a set of steel plate diff drops and rework and reinforce them.

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Post Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 10:50 pm 
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DarkHorse wrote:
Apparently. Haven't heard any progress since the trial kit went out.

Add it to the growing list of people who are supposedly developing a kit and then nothing comes of it... :(

Surely it can't be that hard to find an engineering/fab shop that could do a brass bush. If someone with better measuring gear than me can post some dimensions maybe the rest of us would have a chance.


Something is coming of it, but BenT wanted to see it tested on a vehicle before making it generally available, which I couldn't do before Easter.

Some photos during the installation below (and one while tying up a mobile diff): Yes, it has a Hagen Widening Mod. I couldn't tell you if this is a SE or SV Vitara - it is a 1996 3dr model. It has a Calmini 3" suspension lift

I hammered the hell out of it over Easter and ANZAC weekend and it didn't miss a beat. I broke a diff, bent a tie rod, broke diff mounts and broke off my gear lever (yes, gear lever...), but the CV's never missed a beat. I am pretty happy with it.

Countersunk bolts are used to allow the flange bolts to miss the diff drop bracket bolts on the drivers side. The stubby shaft mod is also necessary.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

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Post Posted: Mon May 05, 2014 9:06 am 
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Which diff did you break and what did you break in it?

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Post Posted: Mon May 05, 2014 9:26 am 
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I broke the spider gears in the front diff. I got hooked up on a steep rutted sidling - uphill front wheel was at full extension - and tried to used a bit of brake to send drive away from the spinning wheels. It didn't work. And really I should not have tried it - it is not on 27's with standard gears anymore...

It is a steel diff.

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Post Posted: Mon May 05, 2014 7:59 pm 
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U could weld the adaptor on the rhs stub instead of the 3 bolt Zook one that would save a bit of room
Lhs u could turn the flange down to a circle
Then machine a circle out the adaptor then weld them together
Would get it close to going in with out widening mod

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Post Posted: Mon May 05, 2014 8:00 pm 
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On a different thought has anyone ever looked at the Freoza CV's? I used to have a feroza and I never busted a CV. killed a diff or 2 but never a CV.
And being a similar size 4x4 could be worth a look.....

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Post Posted: Tue May 06, 2014 7:11 am 
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The ranger cv's look longer for both the inner and the outer. That might make them stronger but the geometry of the front end just went out the window as far as plunge is concerned. When designing an independent system the centreline of the inner cv should fall between the upper and lower control arm mounts if looked from the front, and same on the kingpin inclination on the outer. By moving the point out the cv now has to work much harder and will produce more heat. With the amount of travel in a Vitara you might never have a failure but your grease will break down quicker than if the plunge was correct.

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Post Posted: Tue May 06, 2014 10:07 am 
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How would it be any hotter than running on the ranger?

Anyone reckon they could make spacers like these fairly cheap? Need 2x10mm and 1x30mm.
Image

Buying the required spacers from B4V will cost around $290 posted..... That's for 3x10mm spacers and 2x15mm spacers.

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Post Posted: Tue May 06, 2014 3:16 pm 
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Okay so this is just a very quick drawing to show the concept I am talking about. None of the dimensions used are specific to a vitara, in fact I doubt a vitara is equal length control arms but for it doesn't really matter for the drawing.

On the left you can see a suspension in compression, the tyre has come up. The 199.93mm dimension is exactly where you want to place an axle from centreline of cv to centreline of cv. This is directly between the upper and lower control arm mounts, or on the kingpin axis as it is known. The little box that is drawn on the inside of mounts represents where a cv housing that is too long would sit. Again, not real dimensions just something to show the idea. You can see at compression the length from this box to the middle of the hub is 190.05mm.

On the right you can see the exact same arms in droop, along with the wheel and hub. Here the dimensions are flipped, the ideal location for the cv length is now 199.92mm so the cv's will have to cope with 0.01mm of plunge. However where the longer cv sits the cv is at 190.21mm, so with the incorrect cv the axle must now deal with 0.16mm of plunge, 16 times more.

So to go along with the increased plunge is heat build up, leading to higher maintenance because of burnt grease. I did say before that you might not see a failure but the issue is there regardless. If the cv's cannot plunge enough then you will be putting side loads on your axles, diffs, hubs, etc. There's really not much you can do to independent suspension without a lot of follow on effects.


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