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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 9:11 am 
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viewtopic.php?f=4&t=254&start=120

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 11:57 am 
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I'll update the build tonight fellas

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 4:05 pm 
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There was some awesome rigs at tuff truck, didnt get a chance to check out all the rigs I wanted to, I caught Kerrods drive on mini wirraba, it was a awesome drive, My favourite track of the weekend was jaw breaker, after seeing the 3 cars befor front flip down it I wasn't very keen to do it, managed getting to the 90 tho with no problems, think I was only car in top 39 with 37s so 26th was a good effort!

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 12:22 pm 
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I was very happy with my car. Only one breakage, bent rear steer rod, only thing I'd change for ttc spec is be narrower, shorter and more belly clearance.
The wet conditions really affected me and my driving, hate muddy rock!!
Still I'm happy with 9th considering the quality field. In ttc rear steer helps but not a must, panality points hurt

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 12:40 pm 
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what length and width are you currently Michael and howmuch shorter and narrower would you try?

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 3:44 pm 
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116" wb
2100ish wide now
Biggest issue was when I left home belly was 550. Got to ttc and it settled to under 450. Wound preload in and only changed minor. I'm happy with 116 as car is more fast than a crawler now.

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 10:47 am 
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What's are people's thoughts on built diffs
Looking at making a truggy for fun but will build to tuff truck rules so I can do it if I want later.
What are pros and cons of different set ups
Thinking front and rear steer 40" treps
I don't want it to be to weak and run the risk of blowing r&p all the time but don't want it to be stupid heavy and expensive like Dana 60
Are lux diffs pushing it on 40"s
trail gear do Tacoma with lux diffs in left and right drop for $799 with inner 30 spline axles
Or buds customs 80 outers with Gu center
what do people think

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 1:14 pm 
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What engine/driveline will you have?
How heavy will the car be?

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 2:16 pm 
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J20 aw4 vit tc Sierra case(4.1if need be)
Lighter the better

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:34 pm 
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got_bar_work wrote:
I don't want it to be to weak and run the risk of blowing r&p all the time but don't want it to be stupid heavy and expensive like Dana 60


there go's my suggestion of jana76's then

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:37 pm 
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You'll be right on lux centres. I'd run 80 cvs in the rear though.

Unless youre a peanut behind the wheel.

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 11:35 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
With the exception of the mudless mud run, IMHO there isn't anywhere on the TT course where power to weight is an issue. Sure, a rorty v8 is cool for impressing the bogans, but by that stage you've normally already given up any chance of a clean run. Dave camp won last year in a heavy car with a rover v8 that probably makes less power than a decent commodore v6. He also did it on almost bald krawlers.

Big cars and big power are cool but have very little to do with success at TT from what I've seen.


It funny you say that as I was thinking the rover v8 would be perfect for this event.

I will mention I hate the engine! It's a piece of crap, doesn't take heat well, loves to blow headgaskets and make terrible power. However after old mate blew his 4.6 engine for the 2nd time we sat down one day and did a rough overlapping graph of many engines as we were considering an engine swap.

We did the:

ls1
2uz
3uz
1uz
and the dirty rover engine

I am going by memory here, but I remember the stats for the 3uz and the 2uz were similar. I.e 2uz 202kw@4800 and 427nm @3400rpm vs 3uz 224kw@5600 and 441nm@3400. By just stats the 3uz is the superior engine. But when we overlapped all the torque curves and power curves things started to make sense as to why the 2uz is used in all Toyota 4x4's and the 3uz in a luxury car.

The big stand out was the before peak tq figures. So not the 3400rpm figures, but the 2000rpm figures where the 2uz was making ALOT more than the 3uz.

Finally I will make my point. The 4.6 rover was the worst on paper by a long way, but when we overlapped the power and torque curves we saw that it made its peak torque somewhere around 2400 and at that rpm it was the highest, I remember the ls1 being similar, but the rover was higher to a point I am sorry I cant remember the exact rpm the ls1 took over.

The dirty rover is also very light under 160kgs from memory. The power spread is very well suited to this particular event.

As much as I hate this engine I cant deny it is the most suited to this even and what I would run. It's lightweight, compact and makes power in the rpm band the even uses. I would also consider a vq35.

Edit:
From wiki
The 4.6 produced 222 hp (166 kW) at 4,750 rpm and 300 ft•lbf (407 N•m) at 2,600 rpm.

As I said the sub 2400 rpm was really impressive even though the other engines are better above. But for getting over big rocks this low down torque is what you need

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 11:54 pm 
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got_bar_work wrote:
J20 aw4 vit tc Sierra case(4.1if need be)
Lighter the better


given up on trying to shoe horn it into you LWB vitara?

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 5:20 am 
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Vet 180

A big fat no on Rover shit. Never bring it up again.

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 6:03 am 
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Might as well go 80 diffs front and rear then.what needs to be done to flip the housing over for rear steer.flip cover,re drill some studs, rotate balls ?
What centers does the green hornet run

Yeah atari sic of trying to get more belly clearance and every idea I come up with the engineer shoots down
So stuff it it's buggy time. The lwb is getting 40's.
Looking for a cheap auto swb for a toy car to put my stuff in .

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 6:31 am 
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Havent built a tuff truck
But i've done a bit of investigation into things

got_bar_work wrote:
J20 aw4 vit tc Sierra case(4.1if need be)
Lighter the better


That's at least 1 extra case than is needed, if weight is your concern.

Consider the gear spreads
Vit + 1.3L
HH 1.41, LH 2.56, HL 2.27, LL 4.13 (could just use a 4.16 case)

Vit+1.0L
HH 1.58, LH 2.88, HL 2.51, LL 4.57 (once again 4.16 or 4.9 would be enough)

Vit + 4.16
HH 1.58, LH 2.88, HL 4.16, LL 7.57 (silly low for an auto, you will drive through your brakes in compound low)

Remember you have the torque converter etc offering slip (2.2 ratio) and more torque from the motor.
Meaning
174Nm (J20 max torque) * 2.826 (1st) * 2.2 (slip) * 1.816 (vit low) = 1964 Nm
I wouldn't expect sierra case to withstand that input torque
With just a sierra case, it has an input torque of 1082Nm (which i consider borderline for sierra cases).

Can you make a transaxle auto work?
Its essentially an auto that is always in low, as it has a diff in the box.
An aisin 3speed auto from a barina/swift (diff ratio is 3.9)
An aw4 from balenos seem pretty robust (diff ratio is 3.7)

These autos are a lot lighter and smaller than a vit aw4, and they dont need the extra xfer case either

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 8:19 am 
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SierraDan wrote:
Vet 180

A big fat no on Rover shit. Never bring it up again.

hahahaha

I also have a big hate for the engine. This would be the only situation I would consider it. However the more I think about it, duel cases and a 1.6 would be a better idea. The extra weight is in the middle of the car not over the nose and you can crawl with a lot of control at low speeds.

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 10:42 am 
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I have a 4.1 vit transfer but don't think it would be enough gearing for 40
I already have the duals sitting in the shed so that's why I was thinking of them

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 12:45 pm 
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vet 180 wrote:
SierraDan wrote:
Vet 180

A big fat no on Rover shit. Never bring it up again.

hahahaha

I also have a big hate for the engine. This would be the only situation I would consider it. However the more I think about it, duel cases and a 1.6 would be a better idea. The extra weight is in the middle of the car not over the nose and you can crawl with a lot of control at low speeds.

Rovers were only used because they are cheap.
Everyone is taking out their rovers in favour of a 3.8 or LS. The rovers are a pain in the arse.



GBW green hornet has 80 CVs front and rear, with an 8" front centre and 9.5" rear. 3.8 V6.

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 3:45 pm 
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Do u recon 8in would hold up in the rear ok
If so would a flipped 80 front with a lux center be ok

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:30 pm 
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I have 60 series Front and Rear running 40s
have done a few cv/axle splines (Stripped) and would go 80 balls if i went cruiser diffs on a new build
only axle I have ever snapped was a std one , havent touched the diff Centers except for oil changes and CV regrease .

am also interested in long term reliability of running a zook Dual transfer (Vitt and sierra) as my transfer case ate itself (Happy enough with how long it lasted and the abuse it took )

who has run this for a while ?

or 4 sp Atlas (I figure it needs to last 3 times as long then I am even assuming the zook case will eat itself again )and the reliability that I should get .

Thoughts ?

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:38 pm 
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You've got too much money Macca :lol:
Buy portals instead!

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:54 pm 
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SierraDan wrote:
You've got too much money Macca :lol:
Buy portals instead!

nah just will have to save a little longer before i get something like that , in the meantime I will throw a set of 6.5s in again .

just looking at all options . how long do you think a Dual Zook transfer set up will last ?

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 8:00 pm 
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With a manual just as long.

An auto is your answer.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 8:55 am 
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How much benefit is rear steer. Is it worth the money and weight for a truck that's 99% social wheeler. Would I be better off just going 80 rear and running rear disconnect and cutting brakes.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 9:48 am 
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To be honest i would have rear steer socially before i would have it competitively.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 10:40 am 
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Have u had any problems with ur r&p
any one know about buds customs diffs. Any good?
Might be safer with a custom 9.5 rear end and stock 80 front.
sorry for all the questions.
trying to learn from others that have been there and made the mistakes already. Don't want to spend the money twice.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 10:50 am 
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I'd probably go a ruffstuff housing over a buds seen quite a few fail similar price from memory.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 11:33 am 
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Buds housings are garbage from my experience. The GH uses stock 80 stuff in the front and a custom 9.5" in the rear. No diff issues.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 1:53 pm 
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so far i have had no issues with the buds housings in the Vitt

Dan why dont you like buds housings ?

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