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Post Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:22 pm 
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Ok I recently did a spoa now the only thing holding back flex at the front is the shock. And to run longer shocks I have to change the front upper shock mount. What is the best way of doing this? Shock hoops or moving standard mount up? Pics and info would be great thanks

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:30 pm 
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you cant move the stock mounts very far at all so you really need to buy or make new mounts if you want to run a nice long shock that wont bottom out

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:32 pm 
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gwagensteve makes some of the nicest ones ive seen ask him for a pic

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:41 pm 
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Yeah Id second that.

Although if you have access to a tube bender you can make up some 32mm shock hoops and bolt them with crush sleeves through your chassis rail. This is what I have done. Although I think I went overboard as I flexed up the chassis with the new spring setup and I need a 750mm extended shock.... 8O

my shock mount sits right up at the top of the wheel arch inner guard with a 2 inch body lift. Its about 300mm above the chassis rail. I'll see if i can add a pic in the next day or two.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 12:12 am 
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Sweet sounds good I have spoa and 2" body so wanna run the biggest shock I can fit in.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 2:28 am 
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I have to get another sierra!!

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 1:34 am 
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I won't comment on the lengths you need, you'll need to ramp the car and take some measurements.

This is how I make my shock mounts.

Image

Image

They are time consuming compared to tube, but take up less space, engineers like them and seem very reliable.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 1:42 am 
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Thay look stronger than hoops to.
Verry sex..

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 1:58 am 
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Image

Image

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 2:04 am 
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Where`s the milk crate ??

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 2:23 am 
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Joe, you done any with a eye configuration rather than the pin? as a comparison to gwagensteve

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 2:31 am 
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i have, but don't seem to have any pics. rears i mainly do eyes, my fronts are 99.9% pins (top).

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 10:33 am 
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If you do hoops reinforce them dont just do what some do and weld it to the chassis. All that leverage onto 2mm chassis thickness dosnt last long.
Mine lasted one trip and took out the chassis number with it and that itself was a nightmare.
So after paying to have it dont I redid it myself (Im a crap welder but they are still there) I plated it first welded on the hoops then gusseted between the hoops and chassis.
I,ll try to get a pic, but I like steve and joes ideas better 8)
Nik

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 11:04 am 
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8O for the love of god, somebody buy Joe an ashtray!!

Just out of curiosity Steve, how legal are your mount's? I seem to recall (but I could be wrong) reading in a vehicle standards imformation sheet (NSW reg) that it's ok to weld onto the side of the chassis, but not on the top or bottom of it.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 11:20 am 
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Anyone keen to make some so I can get them welded on im not to good with the fab part

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 5:33 pm 
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http://locktup4x4.com.au/hilux-solid-fr ... r-278.html

Try these dude. Also available in 14"

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 5:50 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
This is how I make my shock mounts.

Image
They are time consuming compared to tube, but take up less space, engineers like them and seem very reliable.

Steve.


I've always liked this design. I'll be using something along these lines when I redo my dodgy mounts.
Especially like the well thought out chassis reinforcement. It's too easy to leave this out and weaken the chassis.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:40 pm 
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they are nice, If i could weld i would be making those for sure,

they really look good, could be made in a much simpler manner out some big RHS for people not as artistic and the load is spread top and bottom of the chassis instead of just a 2" circle on the side.

weaves

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:43 pm 
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bonus point's to gwagon for the speed holes

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 9:55 pm 
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Image
I didnt make the hoops, I just tried to salvage what was left when they ripped 2 big holes in each side of the chassis.
They are not pretty and if I was paying someone again I would want it braced from the start.
As well as plating the chassis first I braced between the chassis and the hoops to stop it flexing.
Nik

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 10:52 pm 
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my biggest issue is fabricating and welding these as i just dont have the skills or equipment to do so. so are shock hoops any good or would you steer away from them?

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 11:51 am 
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Will I get much more flex by changing the shock mounts I'll post some pics after I get some sleep

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:53 pm 
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mcwilly wrote:
Will I get much more flex by changing the shock mounts I'll post some pics after I get some sleep


Depends, if you change the mounts without changing shocks, or without measuring and working out what new shock length you need, then you wont get any advantage. To do it properly you need to remove your shocks, and flex your car. Setup your bump stops first, them measure up the compressed length shock required taking into account your shock hoop design. Find a shock that gives this length and has a suitable valving (poor shock valving will suck) and install it.


Layto....

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 6:38 pm 
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Oh k sweet that's what I plan to do I just wasn't sure if there was much more flex to gain from standard springs and extending shocks

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 9:55 pm 
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LAY80N wrote:
mcwilly wrote:
Will I get much more flex by changing the shock mounts I'll post some pics after I get some sleep


Depends, if you change the mounts without changing shocks, or without measuring and working out what new shock length you need, then you wont get any advantage. To do it properly you need to remove your shocks, and flex your car. Setup your bump stops first, them measure up the compressed length shock required taking into account your shock hoop design. Find a shock that gives this length and has a suitable valving (poor shock valving will suck) and install it.


Layto....


We flexed the zook up at my work with the forklift and when McWilly posts up the pics you will see the shackle angle is pretty much vertical, he looks to be on the limits of his springs and the shocks he has now are exactly the right length for the flex he gets. You can undo the top nuts of the front shocks and gain no extra flex at all. But they are also at full extension.

I can see how properly set up bump stops (which his fall a little short) would improve his flex by a little bit, but to get the flex that he is after i think the only way he will get that is with longer springs. A RUF i think would be the easiet (cheapest) way for him to acheive that.

Anyway when he posts up the pics see if you guys agree with me.

weaves.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:03 am 
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ImageImage

ImageImage

ImageImage

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:37 am 
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nice flex what did you do to the rear shock mount?

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 7:34 am 
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Top rear and front shock mounts are standard. Bottom front and rear are on the diff housings. Do you think I can get move out of standard springs

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 2:47 pm 
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Got these from lowrangeoffroad.. just gotta weld them together to suit your set up..

Image

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 3:32 pm 
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zookernator wrote:
Got these from lowrangeoffroad.. just gotta weld them together to suit your set up..

Image

Do you think with these and longer shocks I'd get more flex or will I need longer springs or drop shackels?

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