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Post Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 11:02 pm 
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i don't think you'll get that much gain to be honest, it's got a fair bit of disturbed airflow going around it from the draglink/panhard etc but it's worth a shot.

maybe do the Ben Lexan* diff & also mock up something like that defender bash plate to direct the air flow?


* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Lexcen

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 11:46 pm 
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You know the sensible and successful thing to do would be reverse the lift back to stage 1 with the bull bar and run stock diametre tyres, but i could see how emotionally that is unlikely to happen. :D

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 6:52 am 
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Rear spoiler for the win pompoms pompoms

Image

Actually it's a pain in the arse but looks cool

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 9:27 am 
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Santos wrote:
You know the sensible and successful thing to do would be buy a prius, but i could see how emotionally that is unlikely to happen. :D


that's up there with replacing my jack shaft with a 12V direct drive 2KW electric motor, cutting out sections of my roof and inbeding 1.5KW of solar cells with a master switch for forward and off. 2KW is 10-15% of the energy required to maintain 100KPH in a jimmy
closer to 20-25% of the energy required to do 80. just need a direct drive 2KW motor that can withstand 6500RPM, but produce peak torque 3500-4200rpm

and when your not driving it keeps yur beer cold so you can crack one for the drive home from work :beer:

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 5:10 pm 
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Jezza86 wrote:
that's up there with replacing my jack shaft with a 12V direct drive 2KW electric motor, cutting out sections of my roof and inbeding 1.5KW of solar cells with a master switch for forward and off. 2KW is 10-15% of the energy required to maintain 100KPH in a jimmy
closer to 20-25% of the energy required to do 80. just need a direct drive 2KW motor that can withstand 6500RPM, but produce peak torque 3500-4200rpm

and when your not driving it keeps yur beer cold so you can crack one for the drive home from work :beer:


I reckon something hanging off the pto output on the transfer would be the go, recharges when coasting, use it for crawling around and f1 overtaking maneuvers

Ferrari have a 200kw electric motor in the laferrari, just wait for one to pop up in the wreckers

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 11:29 pm 
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yeh but the laferrari disengages its 4wd at 100mph so no good for rock bouncing
on a serious note have started the baseline test. in current form (3s +2 BL + roofracks + arb bullbar (to suit bodylift))
next will be + flaired wheel arches, and rock sliders/ steps

then will be skirted front, no roof racks, and lower drag axle houseings.

after tthat, dunnno yet

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 12:50 am 
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I have found my roof basket and roof lights destroy my economy. luckily i set it up to be easily removed and only use it when heading out. Ive been toying with the idea of trying something like a pool noodle wedged between the bottom of my roof basket and my roof right up the front to see if that might help at all as i cant imagine that gap does a whole lot of good(will probably do fuck all) I was also under the car the other day doing the pan hards and thought an extension to the bash plate at the front would help protect the stuff under there a bit better but can see how it might help with some drag. very keen to see if you get anything to work.

Do the rear roof diffusers actually do anything for economy?

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 7:13 am 
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Dan85 wrote:
Do the rear roof diffusers actually do anything for economy?


Mine? I doubt it.

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 6:49 pm 
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Its sfa unless you have a boot in the vortices that come of the roof.

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 6:36 am 
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Interesting topic, our was the same as all of yours got worse with most mods done now sitting somewhere around the 12l/100, It's funny our jimny drives substantially better on dirt and as stated this is because of the rolling resistance of 30 x 9.5" Tyres so I was contemplating going to a 7.00x16"/215/85R16 (30") or maby even a 7.50x R16 (31") as this would greatly reduce width, but I know for a fact the wheels will be heavier and the tyre may even be heavier due to construction, 10 ply walls and such, so un-sprung load could even be heavier which sucks for town driving, has any 1 tried this? At the very least I'll be going back to an All terrain 30"


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Post Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 6:38 am 
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Not to mention that the japs all seem to run skinny Tyres 6.50R16 on there tricked Jimny's, must be something to it


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Post Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:10 am 
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The Japanese are mostly driving the three cylinder turbo engines so that may have something to do with tyre choice.

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:18 am 
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I'm a big fan of tall skinnies on zooks.

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:53 am 
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Still I think there's a lot to be gained from the right tyre, my other half told me that someone on here went from the maxxis 762 (old muddy) to the 764 (new tread pattern) and his fuel efficiency went up by like 15%, just from a pattern change so I think there r definite savings to be had from selecting the right tyre for your situation, ex: lift, gearing, use


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Post Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:58 am 
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I agree, I was just meaning that the 3 cyl engines would struggle with big fat tyres compared to a "big block" 1.3 Jimny

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Last edited by zukenutter on Mon Jun 30, 2014 11:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:58 am 
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Lol yeah


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Post Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 9:01 am 
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So if a 1.3 is a Big Block in jap terms, what's a 1.8?


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Post Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 10:53 am 
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TrentS wrote:
So if a 1.3 is a Big Block in jap terms, what's a 1.8?


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Godzilla block :wink:

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