[DarkHorse]

royce wrote:

crack the furthest rear nipple and give the pedal a few pumps to see if you need some pressure to get fluid through (I think you might)

is there a nipple on the prop valve?

Tried that - nada.

There is a nipple on the prop valve - it was the first one I bled since the fluid flows through the valve first then to front and rears.

[atari4x4]

wonder if it's been frucked by the moisture, all the brake parts i've seen over the years have nipples & caps on all the openings.

[DarkHorse]

That's my worry... Don't have the gear to bench test it though.

[royce]

id crack the outlet from the valve next to see if fluid comes out, if so keep going back till you hit the blockage

[DarkHorse]

I've taken the rear line out of the valve off and pumped brakes. Fluid gets to the bleed nipple on the valve and flows to the front calipers, but nothing out the 'rear' output.

[royce]

did you adjust it the right way? from memory it works backwards to what you'd think.

[DarkHorse]

I hadn't even got that far - adjustment screw is in the same place as when it was removed... although it doesn't appear to be doing anything as the arm sits at it's highest point of travel a few mm off the screw head, and the spring doesn't appear to be doing anything either. As I said I tried with axle at ride height, at full droop, and manipulating the arm by hand. ..

[got_bar_work]

Just get rid of it it does more harm then good
u already have a heap of weight in the back all the time so there is no reason to have it there.
with the higher rate rear springs it isnt going to drop much in the back when u do put more load in it so it isnt going to work anyway.
do u have a manual prop valve for the rear disks.

[DarkHorse]

No, just kept the standard prop valve when I did the discs. Always seemed to behave OK.

[testos_tyrone]

How much lift do you have mate and do you have a spacer on the A arm, the prop valve works on the angle of this arm so if it's hanging you'll lose pressure to the rear brakes, also Lwb master cyl are 22mm and swb are 20mm, we also have a safe t stop machine at work in Wetherill park if you need to test it out before going to an engineer, I can check my pinkslip book tomorrow but I'm pretty sure pedal travel is max 20% remaining

[testos_tyrone]

Judging by the synptoms, your only applying more pedal pressure because most of the braking effort is being taken up by the front calipers rather that all four like it should be

[DarkHorse]

Calmini rear arm, and running about 3" of spring lift. Suspension is exactly what I had in the old car, and before the first round of testing. I have successfully bled all four calipers several times. The only difference I can think of is that the valve was off the car and exposed to the air for a couple of weeks.

I've found a Mazda dealer near me that has the right model machine, so if/when I can get them bled I can check before going to engineer. Thanks for the offer though, appreciate it.

[DarkHorse]

This is now killing me...

Bought another second hand prop valve... and it's very different to the LWB SV one. From what I can see it looks like it's from a SWB SE. Fucken online wrecker orders.

Anyway, figured "bugger it, I'll whack it in and see what happens." Got it bolted up and two of three lines connected easily, the third not so much as it goes into the 'front' of the new one instead of the 'side' of the old one. Naturally, in the process of trying to gently and carefully mold the line around the corner I managed to kink and break the hard line right at the connector.

So, now I have to buy a flanging tool and reterminate... but what size are the hard lines? Are they referenced to the OD or the bore? My calipers read 4.9mm, so are they 5mm (OD) or 3/16" (4.75mm ID)?

Farken...

[atari4x4]

you on bookface darky? there's a cat wrecking a lwb SV in lake illawarra? https://www.facebook.com/groups/123918889665/

[royce]

get some mig wire or something, make up a template of what you need the line to do, take to a brake shop and get them to make a line up.

they likely wont bend it but it will cost bugger all and the flares and line will be right, if you've never flared brake line before you'll spend forever getting it right and decent tools cost heaps.

[jdk81]

The metric lines will also be difficult to flare.
They use metric flaring tools and most places dont have them.

I agree with royce, some 3/16 with correct pipe nuts to suit will be the go, get it flared or possibly diy.

[DarkHorse]

atari4x4 wrote:

you on bookface darky?

Nup.

[DarkHorse]

royce wrote:

get some mig wire or something, make up a template of what you need the line to do, take to a brake shop and get them to make a line up.

they likely wont bend it but it will cost bugger all and the flares and line will be right, if you've never flared brake line before you'll spend forever getting it right and decent tools cost heaps.

Hmm, OK. Of course it's one of the lines that runs all the way from the prop valve to the front of the car.

It would be as easy to remove the whole thing and take that to them, which I was trying to avoid since the break was right at the back of the connector.

Thanks chaps.