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Post Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:30 pm 
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Got the engine back into the twin and hooked it all up. It cranks but it's not firing... Pulled a couple of the spark plugs out and can't even smell any fuel on them. I'm thinking injectors aren't working or something. Pulled the line off that runs to the injectors and it had fuel in there so I'm guessing the fuel pump is still working.

Any ideas?

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:14 pm 
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Do you have spark?

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:16 pm 
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JrZook wrote:
Do you have spark?


I'm not 100% sure. How can I check?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 1:32 am 
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Mechanics 101 ??

Pull a coil pack and a plug - hold the plug against the head and crank the engine - do you see a spark?

Have you rechecked your wiring? cam position sensor connected? crank position sensor connected? injector harness connected? coil pack harness connected ?

Have you checked for codes? Insert the diagnostic jumper and crank the engine - if the ECU is not seeing CMP or CKP it should set I think a 41 or 42.

Do you have a noid light? Use it to see if the ECU is firing the injectors.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge/test set? The presence of fuel in the rail does not mean there is enough pressure to inject.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:17 am 
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Nope no spark. Checked all connections and they're all fine. What would be cause them to not spark?

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:36 am 
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Check your cam and crank position sensors and associated wiring as per fordem's suggestions

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:41 am 
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Are these the new plugs? Grab one of the old ones and retest. Something might have happened in transport to your plugs

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:48 am 
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Pulling codes, 14, 21, 42 and 46.

Yep new plugs

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 11:39 am 
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14 = ECT - Low temperature indicated, signal voltage high
21 = TPS - Signal voltage high
42 = CPS - REF signal not inputted for 3 seconds at engine crank and/or POS signal not inputted at engine running
46 = IAC - IAC valve circuit open, short, or air leakage.

With that many codes I'd be rechecking the wiring, especially the grounds - 14 & 21 can be caused by a missing or broken ground connection.

I should point out that the early H25 engines did not use separate CMP (cam) and CKP (crank) sensors - both signals were generated by a dual channel sensor driven by the exhaust cam on the passenger side. I'm assuming this is what you have because the FSM does not list a code 46 for the later units.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 11:59 am 
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Ok so fixed the others, its just pulling 42 now. Pulled the cam pos. sensor out and the prongs were broken off it.... ??? What would that be from?

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:02 pm 
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Image

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:17 pm 
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Doh!
I notice in your rig thread you had the cams out for the rebuild. Did they get dropped or something, or used as a nut to rotate the cam? You said it was running before the rebuild. I can't see how the sensor would sieze.

hopefully you can find a new part for it...

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:46 pm 
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Yep it was running before. It's not siezed just the locators snapped off some how :S Cams weren't dropped, they sat in the same spot until we put them back in...

Yeah hopefully can find a second handy.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 1:41 pm 
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Did you realign the prongs with the cam when you reinstalled the sensor?

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 1:52 pm 
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Yep...

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 4:34 pm 
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Fitted it 180* out by the looks of it. :?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 10:56 am 
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Any ideas how this would break? Don't wanna break another one again....

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:35 pm 
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Looking at your photo again I just realised that the prongs are (were) on the sensor, not on the end of the cam.
Do you have a photo of what they engage into on the cam?

Is it possible to not get them into a slot correctly? If the prongs aren't seated correctly does it jam the sensor?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:40 pm 
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from memory the prongs are slightly offset from the centerline, well they are on the j20a CMP... wonder if you got it 180 degrees out, on the J20a there is enough movement in the drive dog gear that you possibly could line it up 180 out.

cam hasn't seized?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:59 pm 
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Custom "weld and grind" cams and all of a sudden some broken bits on a CMP sensor would raise an eyebrow for me.

I know causation doesn't equal correlation but that seems like a rather inconvenient coincidence?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 9:22 pm 
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I reckon atari is on the money with the 180 degree thing. If the prongs aren't cast central (and it kind of looks like that), that would shear them off in the first 180 degree of rotation. or even when you bolted it up.

see the pics in atari's thread towards the bottom of the off centre prongs for the J20A "SV" sensor
http://www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=33778&hilit=j20a+cmp

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 10:44 pm 
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Just sussed out the FSM and it says "Therefore, if the dogs can not be fitted into the slots, turn the CMP sensor shaft by 180 degree and try again."

I read that as, it can only be fitted one way? I hope that's the issue though and it won't do it again...

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 11:10 pm 
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post a pic of the cam end, it's been a couple of years since fucking with mine but i reckon if you weren't paying attention you could make it fit 180 out.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 11:50 am 
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Will grab a pic tomorrow. On the up side, found a second hand sensor for $110 + post.

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