[GraphicX]

can anyone tell me what the outer diameter of the below breather post is & whether it's possible for me to tap a thread onto it ? i'm hoping it's about 1/2 inch & will accept a 1/2 inch thread.



thanks.

[Jim_Aus]

Jimny bits . com......

[atari4x4]

Generic post dot com from generic user... He's not after a product, he's after tech.

[Jezza86]

Jeh havent seen a actual breather kit on jimny bits either.
I used 12mm id fuel hose and stuck a 12mm drill bit up it to make it actually fit. So id say its a touch over 12mm ie 1/2 inch

[pete_79]

Yeah, 1/2 inch fuel hose fits neat.
Don't know that you need to go to the trouble of tapping it, up to you, but most people (including me) seam to get a good seal with just the 1/2 inch fuel hose and a clamp.

[atari4x4]

apart from looking a lil bit ghetto.

i remember someone with a jimny pulling the 1/2 rubber off the diff end leaving it open to the elements.

[pete_79]

I remember someone with a Jimny finding a broken front breather hose where it had pinched on the chassis and pushed the metal fitting through the hose.
Apparently after finding it broken again it was clear that a longer piece of hose was required on the front diff before the fitting to stop it pinching on the chassis.

[atari4x4]

was that you pete?

[pete_79]

yep, was me.
Found it broken a second time just this weekend and decided I needed a design change on the front.

[Mike57]

For the rear just clamp a hose over the fitting. For the front you need to clamp a 90 degree bend on to the fitting. Find a rubber hose with a 90 degree bend moulded into it. Just go along to Repco or any auto shop and see what they have. If you use a straight section on the front it will hit the chassis rail and if you use a metal joiner and a straight section you can damage the hard brake line as well. Found this out the hard way like Peter.

This is my rear connection.



This is what I had at the front on my second attempt.


That did not work either so I used a soft 90 degree section I think from a heater hose and that has been in place without problems for years.

The hose should be 1/2 inch internal diameter as I recall.

Mike

[Jezza86]

atari4x4 wrote:

apart from looking a lil bit ghetto.

i remember someone with a jimny pulling the 1/2 rubber off the diff end leaving it open to the elements.

Yep mine. Found it right after a creek crossing and droped the oil 15 minutes later and tripple flushed it till te oil was clean

[atari4x4]

Jezza86 wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

apart from looking a lil bit ghetto.

i remember someone with a jimny pulling the 1/2 rubber off the diff end leaving it open to the elements.

Yep mine. Found it right after a creek crossing and droped the oil 15 minutes later and tripple flushed it till te oil was clean

so pete's wasn't the only one... personally i'd be looking at a different solution.

[jdk81]

Im guessing like vitara and sierra, the internal hole is probably the right size to tap a 1/4" bsp thread into, and screw an elbow air fitting into that.

[Gwagensteve]

I think it's a 1/8" BSP tap, not a 1/4"

Steve.

[pete_79]

Thanks guys.
I stood at the hose fitting display on Saturday morning trying to find a solution for the front. I knew others had tapped the breather and was cursing that I didn't know the internal size to do it that way. In the end I just put a longer piece of hose to try and move the fitting away from the chassis.

Is anyone sure about that internal size?
I'd like to grab a tap and fitting this weekend and do it before I drop the diff oils.

[jdk81]

Gwagensteve wrote:

I think it's a 1/8" BSP tap, not a 1/4"

Steve.

That sounds correct niw i think about it.
Theres a lot of mentions of 1/4 and 1/8 when tapping the breathers, and I recall purchasing the elbows for diffs and cases in the size mentioned in a few threads (1/4"), and they were too big.

[GraphicX]

thanks for the help guys.

basically i've gotten pretty much everything in from ebay to make a breather kit, but on the fence about how to join to the diffs. for the front i had no idea it was so tight & needing an elbow so that's something i need to look at before starting.

with fitting the hose to the diffs i was looking at using push connects, but wondering how to fit them to the diffs. i knew you could tap the inside of the tube but i'm worried about getting metal in the diff itself so was wondering about tapping it on the outside instead. so there's pretty much no chance that'd work, looks like the best solution is 12mm ID fuel line or similar.

[Jim_Aus]

Sorry team....

this was the kit i was talking about...

http://www.bigjimny.com/images/document ... er_Kit.pdf

but looks like you got it sorted...

[pete_79]

GraphicX wrote:

for the front i had no idea it was so tight & needing an elbow so that's something i need to look at before starting.

Looking at Mike's pictures I'm glad I caught mine before it knocked around the brake line that much. Mine has just stamped a semi-circle from the fitting, half on the brake line and half on the chassis, which caused this.


At the moment I've just added a longer piece on the diff so the fitting rubs on the chassis and doesn't get wedged on the corner with the brake line. But will be more comfortable with a tapped elbow in there.

GraphicX wrote:

i knew you could tap the inside of the tube but i'm worried about getting metal in the diff itself so was wondering about tapping it on the outside instead.

I expect if you use a good sticky cutting compound and get it down in the breather fitting before you start tapping you'll catch most of the shavings. I had planned to drop the diff oils this weekend anyway, so will wait until after I do the breather to do the oil change, just in case any shavings get in there.

GraphicX wrote:

looks like the best solution is 12mm ID fuel line or similar.

1/2 inch hose, not 12mm.

[Mike57]

I had to replace that brake line. It was pretty much crunched from the metal elbow that I had on there before the plastic one. Tapping is most likely the most durable solution (as is required for the transfer case) but personally hose clamping over the top seems to be adequate. Just keep the right angle on the front very close to the diff and don't add anything that will clash with the chassis. There is much less room there than it first appears.

[pete_79]

I decided to go with the flexible elbow like Mike suggested, there's another thread (that I can't be bothered looking for again to link here) where others say they had broken a steel elbow that had been tapped into the front diff. So I think the flexible elbow is the way to go.


Picked up this piece of heater hose from supersheit. Was a few bucks, it's 1/2" ID and has both a 90° and 45° bend (one extra bend to go in the spares box).



I used the 90° bit and moved the reducer fitting back away from the chassis.

[Mike57]

Peter that is exactly what I did. Nothing to do any damage to the brake line and my front hose has never suffered any damage.

Mike

[GraphicX]

thanks for posting that with the part number etc pete, will be grabbing one of them myself.

[Seth2013]

for anyone still reading

1/8 BSP is correct and you can get the brass L connectors in that size, its not a super super super tight fitting though (it was quite hard to get it to tap straight - maybe that's my lack of experience though). I put a small amount of gasket sealant on the thread on the way in just to be sure (dropped the oil out of the diffs about 2 months ago and no water so all good)

[Jim_Aus]

looks good.

[Gwagensteve]

I would have cut the factory barbs down a bit ( I cut them just below the groove- just for aesthetics really) but yep, that's a nice neat job.

Steve.

[GraphicX]

got my breathers in, diffs only atm, will do boxes later. wanted to tap threads & wanted to cut the barbs down but really don't want to risk getting metal in the diffs. if i ever have the diffs out i'll do it then though.

here's how they came up, used universal bend with 12.7mm ID;

[Seth2013]

looking good graphix - diff breathers really should be function over form.

if you ever get the urge to tap - put some grease on the thread taping thingy, catches all/most of the metal like magic- just remember to clean it every few turns to stop too many fragments building up. when I dropped the oil out, the magnets on the plugs were devoid of any large metal fragments.

thanks - looking at them now - cutting them would be good, maybe another day