[Brubaker]

Hey guys,

I'm planning to buy a new Jimny some time in the next few months. I reckon some run-out deals are to be had on the 2014 models when the 2015 with ESC comes out in October.

The only reason that I might consider spending a bit more cash on the 2015 would be if the ESC somehow helps the death wobble issue. Maybe I'm totally wrong about this, but if it is an oscillation effect because something is slightly out of very strict spec (heavier tires than stock, 2" lift etc), would the ESC somehow stop the harmonic before it has the chance to gain momentum? And IF this would stop the harmonic, is this just masking the issue like using a dampener?

(Sorry guys I know death wobble discussion has been beaten to death, but it seems like a recurring theme and for me as a prospective buyer one of the biggest detractors to the vehicle. After all, one of the biggest attractions about the Jimny is the ability to modify, and it sounds like the best way to avoid the death wobble or at least get after-sale support from Suzuki is to keep the vehicle stock.)

[zukenutter]

Only a small percentage of wobble chat is "death wobble". Mostly it's just a steering wheel shimmy, often caused by tyres out of balance or even just need for tyre rotation.

As for your question regarding ESC, I doubt that it'll make any difference to the wobble.

[Jezza86]

So the wobble we see and feel through the steering is lateral hamonisation meaning it is trasmitted from the left to the right and back again.. ESC detects a locked wheel and trys to keep the car turning where your pointing by employing breaks. Wobbles dont cause locked wheels unless you have wickedly warped discs. Breaking alone very rearely helps a harmonised wobble because the change in wheel speed cauaed by breaking dosent change the harmonic freaquency once established.
The best way to have bigger wheels then stock and not get a wobble is to not change the castor. Run no lift. Of course most people are hesitant about hacking the guards off their brand new one year old car. So they springlift. But while this corrects some of the failings of the origionsl soft springs it also adds castor which is 5 steps down wobble road.
These days suzuki make sure the panhard bolts are done up propper tight and the swivel hubs are shimmed correctly.
If buying new tell them you want to check those 2 key items before accepting delivery.

[Brubaker]

Thanks for the quick response guys. Really appreciate your help. I think I'll shop around for a deal on a 2014.

[zukenutter]

My advice is to not concern yourself too much with it. From new it may have a slight shimmy, let the dealer know straight away so they can deal with it. If the dealer won't/can't deal with it, go straight to the importer. Death wobble is generally a mileage/modification issue and is hit/miss whether it'll happen.

[Jezza86]

zukenutter wrote:

Death wobble is generally a mileage/modification issue and is hit/miss whether it'll happen.

its also a Quality issue. the tard (im talking bout you drunk jeremy. )who installed my panhards didn't do up the bolts tight enough, causing monley to almost shit himself, get out and tell me to drive the fing thing.

[zukenutter]

So as I say, death wobble is generally caused by mileage and modification, not a new car issue

[Marko_SJ]

zukenutter wrote:

So as I say, death wobble is generally caused by mileage and modification, not a new car issue

Going by my brother's jimny, this is correct.

New, no wobble. Installed lift and tires, slight wobble. Couple years down the track without king pin shimming, the wobble makes it nearly undrivable and unsafe feeling, the whole car shakes and people stare.

Shims are on their way.

[zukenutter]

Jezza's point about the pan hard tightness is just as important. When mine gets a wobble I install new bushes and make sure it's a tight fit.

[Jezza86]

zukenutter wrote:

Jezza's point about the pan hard tightness is just as important. When mine gets a wobble I install new bushes and make sure it's a tight fit.

that's why theres a recall thread! they didn't do the bolts up tight enough in the factory.

pales compared to Toyotas accelerator stuck in the carpet issues but lol

[Skippy]

Marko_SJ wrote:

zukenutter wrote:

So as I say, death wobble is generally caused by mileage and modification, not a new car issue

Going by my brother's jimny, this is correct.

New, no wobble. Installed lift and tires, slight wobble. Couple years down the track without king pin shimming, the wobble makes it nearly undrivable and unsafe feeling, the whole car shakes and people stare.

Shims are on their way.

This is exactly how mine is at the moment, 2 year old and has a slight shudder because of the lift, had a horrid wobble when braking but the culprit was a loose nut on a steering arm balljoint

[Marko_SJ]

Skippy wrote:

Marko_SJ wrote:

zukenutter wrote:

So as I say, death wobble is generally caused by mileage and modification, not a new car issue

Going by my brother's jimny, this is correct.

New, no wobble. Installed lift and tires, slight wobble. Couple years down the track without king pin shimming, the wobble makes it nearly undrivable and unsafe feeling, the whole car shakes and people stare.

Shims are on their way.

This is exactly how mine is at the moment, 2 year old and has a slight shudder because of the lift, had a horrid wobble when braking but the culprit was a loose nut on a steering arm balljoint

It wobbles REALLY bad on decel (no brakes) but the wobble shakes the whole car now regardless of driver input.

Will have a look at it soon. Car runs a castor corrected 75mm lift, all from one of the UK suppliers (can't remember which one) excluding the shocks and the panhards, which are TD items.

[Jezza86]

the td panhards are really good IMO. dont know about the bushes but. their hard plastic/possibly polly and dont appear to be replaceable.
another thing i did was adjusted some of the play out of the steering box. you get more feedback through the steeting wheel but also get a good feel for whats seting off the wobbles

[Marko_SJ]

Jezza86 wrote:

the td panhards are really good IMO. dont know about the bushes but. their hard plastic/possibly polly and dont appear to be replaceable.
another thing i did was adjusted some of the play out of the steering box. you get more feedback through the steeting wheel but also get a good feel for whats seting off the wobbles

Yeah, thats why he got em, I think monkley told him that they was good. Dunno why he went for tough dog shocks, but the marketing was pretty effective.

To be honest he's a bit discouraged with the car at the moment, being wobbly and un geared, reckons he regrets the XCOX car too. TBH it'll be great when the gearing and wobbles are sorted. Gets to the geese reserves and stuff good, and thats likely all its ever gunna be used for in the future.

We'll give it a good look over when he comes back from Adelaide.

[zukenutter]

I have the made in Asia panhards, they been great and can be adjusted while fully installed which is a plus over the TD units. Mine also has non replaceable bushes. First time they flogged out I cut them out and machined down some bushes that I bought from a parts store. I've redone them once since and they're due again soon.

[Jezza86]

I think once you go over 2 inch the rate tou go through bushes on panhards bushes would increase as a function of the angle the panhard is on. The bigger the angle from horizontal the more the diff is pushed/ pulled laterally and this is why theres the pther discussion on drop pitman arms and panhard relocation.
Hay ZN do you think your front panhard flexes at all where it has the bend in it?

[zukenutter]

Nope, not at all. The chassis mount would flex long before the bend