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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 2:37 am 
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The machined pucks to replace your centre bearings and 30mm centre-less ground bar to check alignment during welding will cost more than the truss or a replacement housing or the trusses.

More housings are bent through welding than bent through driving.

Just my 2c.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 8:18 am 
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atari4x4 wrote:
For maximum e-fame, truss the rear like the desert trucks/ultra4 race cars.


Done.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 8:47 am 
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Yeah probably cheaper to buy a new housing if when you bend one. I've wheelied jumped and generally driven my Sierra pretty hard and my housing is straight. You can get them for like 50 bucks why bother. And a bent housing will rarely stop you driving it will just mean you will flog out axle seals. Unless you full banana it in which case you've probably fucked other stuff as well and can't drive anyway. Save your money for other shit.


But definitely shave your diff cos that's awesome and makes your car stacks more capable just weld a piece of 3mm flat a cross the front of your pumpkin while your there. Bam diff guard and shave .now you can doze all the shit you want wiwith your diff and not bend it

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 8:52 am 
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how do i know where to shave it? and even forget about knuckle gussets?

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 8:54 am 
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and in the NT its actually heaps hard to get diffs cost me 600 just for these too im doing up ready for the wt swap but i see your point

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 9:06 am 
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People literally throw nt diffs away.

Get a shit 3rd or wrap your gears really well with rags but not thick, just so it's all sealed. Then put it in the housing and cut the bottom off. Now you can see the gear ring and how much room you have use a straight edge across to see the proper distance to your crown wheel . Keep cutting down till you have about 4-5mm gap. Weld some 5 or 6mm plate across the botttom, take the third out and weld the inside too. Then bend a strip of 3mm by say 30 or 40mm and weld it a cross the front of the pumpkin, you'll need to bend it to the shape first. Your diff will be strong as fark.

Remember to clean all the dwarf weld spatter and grinding dust out of your housing before reassembly.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 9:07 am 
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Ah northern territory not narrow track haha my bad

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 9:09 am 
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viewtopic.php?f=4&t=26840&start=30

There's a few pics and bits in there

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 9:22 am 
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31zook wrote:
atari4x4 wrote:
For maximum e-fame, truss the rear like the desert trucks/ultra4 race cars.


Done.


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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 9:31 am 
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yeah sorry about that confusion :')

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 10:00 am 
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what does everyone do with there filler plug after they shave it?

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 10:30 am 
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Some put a new filler plug in a suitable spot, though I don't think it will ever get 100% drain . And others just pull a diff bolt and drain it out that way.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 10:40 am 
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Yeah no worries

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