[magnat]

Thats the plan although I will say I have never had a Subwoofer enclosure go mouldy or swell before.

[GeckoXL7]

Ive seen MDF Swell alot but its easy to work with (being a son of a cabinet maker and one when young). I have also seen alot of unprotected Ply crack too both have there ups and downs.
We use to spray the MDF withWood / PVA glue

PS on Quick drying Enamel why i like it for MDF as its also hard wearing.
From Wikipedia
"Enamel paint is also used on wood to make it resistant to the elements via the waterproofing and rotproofing properties of enamel. Generally, treated surfaces last much longer and are much more resistant to wear than untreated surfaces."

http://miniatures.about.com/od/building ... imemdf.htm

What you have is good as you have a good thickness of mdf so wont sag, will be great to see it all finished

[murcod]

You need something like this - a proper sealer, primer, undercoat : http://www.britishpaints.com.au/product ... reparation or this http://www.dulux.com.au/products/dulux- ... oduct=2178

Even then, you'll need to do a lot of coats as it will be "sucked up" by the MDF.

PS: Magnat, how did you secure your shelves down?

[magnat]

I used a couple of 1.25 pitch bolts (at least thats what the guy at the Steel works sold me) From memory they were 4 inch long bolts.

which bolted right into where the rear bolts of the stock seat brackets went.
For the front, I used a peice of 2x4 and just bolted it into where the front clips go for the rear seat pad... That was no picnic.
Then I screwed the bottom sheet of MDF to that block of timber. Its not going anywhere..

[murcod]

I've been looking at how to secure mine. The rear part (near the door) is easy using the bolts like you said - I think they're M10 x 1.25mm - and there's a row of three.

I've had an idea for the front section. My front piece of ply will actually sit flush on those seat squab brackets you were talking about. There's a 7mm hole in each bracket that I'm going to enlarge and fit a M6 "cage nut" into - that gets around trying to do the bolt/ nut thing like you did. They're normally used on 19" computer server racking systems but will be perfect for this too. (A nutsert type fitting would be better, but I don't have the tool for doing them.)

[henno]

MDF isn't ply. You need to paint more that just the edges.

[murcod]

murcod wrote:

I've been looking at how to secure mine. The rear part (near the door) is easy using the bolts like you said - I think they're M8 x 1.25mm - and there's a row of three.

I've had an idea for the front section. My front piece of ply will actually sit flush on those seat squab brackets you were talking about. There's a 7mm hole in each bracket that I'm going to enlarge and fit a M6 "cage nut" into - that gets around trying to do the bolt/ nut thing like you did. They're normally used on 19" computer server racking systems but will be perfect for this too. (A nutsert type fitting would be better, but I don't have the tool for doing them.)

Forget the cage nuts/ nutserts - these look like they're perfect for the job http://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.c ... ed-inserts - drill the correct sized hole and pop them straight in.

[magnat]

Where do I source tie down points from ?

[murcod]

What sort?
You can get "eye nuts" https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_item ... lutePage=1 (plus eye bolts) also try searching for "pad eyes" eg. https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_item ... lutePage=4
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/lashing-D-Ri ... 1c41146747

[davico]

magnat wrote:

Where do I source tie down points from ?

Mine were from http://juststraps.com.au/

Look for the "25mm Anchor Plate Set" under Accessories / Steel Fittings.

[magnat]

Well Its all in.. Carpeted and done on a budget of $58.

$30 on Timber
$18 on the Carpet
$10 for the Hardware..

(I have added Barrel bolts to keep the drawers in place) They were $2.50 each)

The light switch is for the LED lights. There is room under the front section for a Deep cycle battery for when the Dual battery set up is able to be purchased...

[murcod]

davico wrote:

magnat wrote:

Where do I source tie down points from ?

Mine were from http://juststraps.com.au/

Look for the "25mm Anchor Plate Set" under Accessories / Steel Fittings.

That's a good site.

The alloy track kits look good too - with the removable fittings. They'd be nice recessed into the floor.

[murcod]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Anchor-Track ... 4ad6908c2e two tracks each 610mm long with four tie down points. $58 delivered.



http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tie-Down-Poi ... 35d163cadb Set of 4 anchors (Just Straps through Ebay) $27.50 delivered



http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tie-Down-Poi ... 4d1819331a Removable load rings set of 4 $40.70 delivered

[GeckoXL7]

$10.50 lol

http://www.bunnings.com.au/grunt-182kg- ... -_p4310462

[atari4x4]

10 minutes at a u-pull it wreckers & you'd have a bucket load of them & a shit load of different styles for next to nothing.

at using a house light switch, very homely.

at the overspray on the LHS top tail-light.

[GeckoXL7]

^^ you like to pick on small things dont you

[atari4x4]

it's all about the little things... take care of the fine detail & the big picture comes together.

[GeckoXL7]

True, sound like you are a Technical engineering teacher with that statement.

Was taught to pay attention to everything around you, flashing lights, sounds etc a good engineer / technician can walk into a room and within 30seconds list all the faults. Also was taught to over engineer so dont have to go back and fix it later.

[murcod]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

$10.50 lol

http://www.bunnings.com.au/grunt-182kg- ... -_p4310462

But they're not shiny/ blingy like the other set..... who would have thought Bunnings would be cheaper?

[murcod]

atari4x4 wrote:

it's all about the little things... take care of the fine detail & the big picture comes together.

Then I'm surprised at no mention of the light switch taking up valuable load space?

atari4x4 wrote:

:lol: 10 minutes at a u-pull it wreckers & you'd have a bucket load of them & a shit load of different styles for next to nothing.

Which U-Pull-It do you go to? The Elizabeth one is far from cheap for anything small like that.

[murcod]

A bit late in the thread, but here are some pics of the rear of an XL-7 with the seats stripped out.

[GeckoXL7]

A Narva rocker swithch would be nice and small and cost about the same than the house light switch. Just make sure nothing slides over it as they are prone to be pushed in quite easily.

Bunnings do have chrome anchor points that are rated at around 1400kg but there 10 each i know they have others too that you can embed in the MDF so sit flush. its all in there rope section.

[Marko_SJ]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

True, sound like you are a Technical engineering teacher with that statement.

Was taught to pay attention to everything around you, flashing lights, sounds etc a good engineer / technician can walk into a room and within 30seconds list all the faults. Also was taught to over engineer so dont have to go back and fix it later.

I've also walked into a room, seen an engineer point out the problem and argue with everyone else about what the cause was.

Turns out the guy that dealt with crap for a living was right, the engineer was wrong.

Cool story huh? We saved a heap of money there.

[GeckoXL7]

Yeah Also was taught engineers with only theory behind them and not experiance with the issues arnt any good. Quite often technical knowledge is needed to be a good engineer. THen there was quite a few storys about Technicians and egineeers arguing eg a Engineer will deisgn something the technician has to install it or build it and knows what works and does not work, and its usually the engineer that always thinks they know better, untill the technician proves them wrong.

[atari4x4]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

True, sound like you are a Technical engineering teacher with that statement.

Was taught to pay attention to everything around you, flashing lights, sounds etc a good engineer / technician can walk into a room and within 30seconds list all the faults. Also was taught to over engineer so dont have to go back and fix it later.

Yet you missed the woodruff key... Cool story broski.

[magnat]

I used the Light switch as its not going to interfere with the cargo space when fully loaded. (Also I go camping with some non-technically minded people.. if I tell them to hit the lights.. they can't miss besides.. The light switch was FREE)
As for the overspray.. what do you expect with a $2 rattle can and $1 masking tape.. You get what you pay for.

[GeckoXL7]

My kids will constantly be flicking the thing there addicted to light switch's.

Ill have to get started on my rear end soon *to Keep UP* , i still have to convince the misses to remove the rear seat so what ever i do it has to be easily removed and the seats put back in or think outside the box and intergrate a flat floor into the rear seats so when the seats go down its all one big flat area with anchor points for the fridge etc, and Drawers under the seat. Have to get rid of the CD stacker stilll full of cds and put something in its place.

I am respraying my weathered bonnet with Durapoint Wrap paint not as cheap as $2 paint but will do the job.

[magnat]

At least it wont change color like the $2 spray pack did.. It was white... its now cream..

[murcod]

Here's an interesting one, storage drawers, dual batteries, fridge and a roof tent: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/melbourn ... 1105091521

[magnat]

That would weigh a bit...
Mine I am happy to say has been serving me well .. Many camping trips later.. It also took a 100kg load on it without an issue..
( 5 Bags of concrete mix)
Its still easy as hell to load up with groceries aswell and with the seats folded has a flat floor.. another bonus
Decided against the roof top tent and went with a Kings double swag..