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Post Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 2:14 am 
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I've got all the bolts off the manifold but it won't budge, is there something i should know?
I also am trying to take the head bolts off and they seem to shift a bit then go tight, how many NM are they done up to? Are they a left hand thread? that wouldn't make sense... :roll:
Also how do you measure cylinders in case it has been bored out before?
What is that honing brush you can buy called?
What is the original cylinder size as i need to know if mine is different?
cheers for all ya help


Last edited by 31zook on Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 2:17 am 
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First off all whT engine

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 2:23 am 
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I've got all the bolts off the manifold but it won't budge, is there something i should know? flog it with a dead blow hammer
I also am trying to take the head bolts off and they seem to shift a bit then go tight, how many NM are they done up to? Are they a left hand thread? that wouldn't make sense... :roll: undo them 1/4 turn each until they are all loose. from memory they are around 57flb
Also how do you measure cylinders in case it has been bored out before? dunno just give it to a machine shop and get them to supply pistons and size/hone bore
What is that honing brush you can buy called? cylinder hone
What is the original cylinder size as i need to know if mine is different?
cheers for all ya help dunno, should be in your workshop manual.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 2:39 am 
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Cheers shep, im thinking of buying a repco $500 rebuild kit with pistons, bearings, gaskets, and seals... does that sound about right for a G13A?

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 4:47 am 
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If you crack them all in the right pattern? Once they are all cracked they should come out pretty easy. They are definetely not a LH thread.

something similar to:
9 7
3 5
1 2
6 4
8 10

Exhaust or intake manifold? If its intake make sure you have taken out all the bolts, its easy to miss the ones on the bottom. If all the bolts are off then some gentle persuasion is in order :)

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 9:54 am 
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Oh i hadn't remembered to do any pattern is that critical fo getting apart ill try to use that patt anyway

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:57 am 
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It is critical for not warping the head, but doing them up in the right pattern is more important.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 4:26 pm 
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my best advice is to speak to get a gasket kit for your engine, then speak to an engine rebuilding place for the rest- You don't want to buy incorrect bearings/pistons/rings because yours are different.

Also be very careful putting the rings on the pistons are they can be fragile. Use the above pattern to tighten the head bolts all to 35nm, then to 55/57nm (dont go straight to 55nm or bad things may happen).

When putting head gasket on, use some gasket spray, its blue and sticky.

Pm me if you want any more help, i've rebuilt 3 or 4 Suzuki engines so far.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:37 pm 
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31zook wrote:
I've got all the bolts off the manifold but it won't budge, is there something i should know? just give it a litle tap with a hammer.

I also am trying to take the head bolts off and they seem to shift a bit then go tight, how many NM are they done up to? Are they a left hand thread? that wouldn't make sense... :roll:

normal thread, they might be very hard to crack the 1st time. use a breaker bar and start in the middle 2 and keep going and cracking the opposite bolt till you have done all of them. the head will be a bastard to get off so another little tap to free it up

Also how do you measure cylinders in case it has been bored out before? if its bored out it will say on top of the pistons some if the bearings have been resized

What is that honing brush you can buy called? cylinder hone. i have a cheap one size fits all but the bottle brush ones do a lot better job.

What is the original cylinder size as i need to know if mine is different? 74.01-74.04 mm std cylinder bore.

cheers for all ya help

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:40 pm 
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also make sure you mare what hole all the bolt go in and dont mix up what piston goes in what bore.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 9:09 pm 
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the pistons should be numbered (cast into the top of the piston) and have an arrow so you get them right way around.

atleast the two G13 engines i have appart at the moment and the one i have had appart in the past where

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:35 pm 
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Brett your a bloody champ :D Are you talking about the head bolts brett? ninjadaniel what is gasket spray? and i've never seen it before...

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 12:05 am 
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you want every thing to go back exactly where it came from.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 12:31 am 
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oh ok i just pulled the head off and left all the bolts in it then sat it on my bench... so my pistons have not been bored out and there is alot of grease/oil in the 4th cylinder and in the 1st. Im thinking that it's just a head gasket but is there any power difference if it's bored out? How much would it cost to just get the block honed?

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 1:47 am 
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hey there is rubbish all over my valves (like baked on tar) how hard are valves to replace and how do you set the tappets? man i need a manual

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 2:15 am 
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go download a manual and read the engine sections a few times, go get a generic engine building book to and read that, dont touch anymore till you understand what you are doing

engine building is piss easy but it takes a lot of patience and measuring and more patience and cleaning and patience and putting shit back the right way and patience, much up one bit and it all falls to bits

you may find you might be better to jsut get an engine shop to do your bottom end for you, they will charge less to assemble it after machining than the tools to measure it all yourself

the carbon on the head will blast off easy as

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:44 am 
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i was joking royce... ill go download the FSM now...

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:04 pm 
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I downloaded the FSM, all the question i had are in there.. so sorry for wasting you time and thanks for bothering to reply...

Is it worth boring out a perfectly good cylinder? Would it produce any more noticeable torque? How big can i go?

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:35 pm 
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60thou is the biggest made, only if you have to, bore`s get to thin & you run hot ect. you won`t notice a huge diffrance, but it`s allway`s in ya head while driving that " I`ve got new piston`s" tis a good feeling!!

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:26 pm 
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31zook wrote:
I downloaded the FSM, all the question i had are in there.. so sorry for wasting you time and thanks for bothering to reply...

Is it worth boring out a perfectly good cylinder? Would it produce any more noticeable torque? How big can i go?


You know more poeple will be inclined to help you if you dont come across as a fuckwit dont you

how do you know the bore is perfectly good? what did you use to measure it and how did you determine its round and squareness?

how did you determine the amount of crosshatch left on the bores?

How did you measure the wear on the pistons?

See, there is a lot to engine building, but you cant be fucked to pay attention to anyone that knows a bit about the subject and learn something so you go for it expert

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:38 pm 
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:shocked: :shocked:

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 12:33 am 
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no point boring out a engine unless you are after every pony you can get. most of the time a bore is done because a its warped out of shape, has worn and isn't round any more or there is damage to the cylinder wall.

if you cylinders are good just a good hone is what you want.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 2:11 am 
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steknig/ brett, yeah i had a chat with a guy today and he was of the opinion that if you bored it out about 50 thou bigger then it will decease the reliability and not give a whole deal more torque... so im thinking that this is a good idea and ill drop it off at a local mech shop to get the crosshatching put back in, have a new set of rings put in for piece of mind and get head and block dipped...

royce: I don't know how much cross hatching should be there, i can't tell you how much the pistons have worn, i can't tell you if the piston are round except with a rough guess with my venera calipers. And if a come across as a tool to you (and everyone else) then i regret it...

BTW just because i don't reply to what you have written is because i understand what you have written and it all makes sense, I'm not disregarding what your saying...

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 11:20 am 
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@ 31 Zook, rather than boring it if you don't have to which will decrease the overall life of the bottom end (you can only bore it so far before you need to throw the block away), why don't you opt for some high compression pistons. That will up the power and the torque of the engine, but the downside is, you may need to run premium unleaded to stop pinging.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 11:43 am 
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get it measured already, you can bet the bores are oval and trying to fit new rings is jsut prolonging the engine a bit, if you are going to spend money on it you may as well do it properly

I dont think suzuki blocks are affecting by overboring that much but it doesnt gain you much, bore it the least amount needed to get back to a decent finish and fit decent pistons to suit

clean the head up and wack a cam in and youll have a nice engine that will pull ok with 31's and wont give you any dramas for another 5-10 years

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:24 pm 
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boring is a wast of time.got mine done just cause i can and it did nothen,cam and carby is all u need. cant even tell the 31'' are on now

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:11 pm 
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rock hopper: yeah my mate told me the same thing so ill see if the shop can get the cylinder round (if it is oval) with the minimum amount of boring. Also i was told about shaving the top of the block and the bottom of the head to shorten the length of the cylinder thus producing more torque, as I'm not chasing power. The high compression pistons, are you refering to flat top pistons?

royce: yep i figure while im here may aswell do it right, cheers

gypsy: yeah im thinking about getting the carby dipped as well so everything was clean and fresh...

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 12:41 am 
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20v you can tell the difference then!!!!!


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Post Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:45 am 
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I found these ones previously and am considering them depending on what I decide to do with the engine.
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/samenginerebuild.htm

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 9:34 am 
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They look good :D i might order a master rebuild kit...

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