[cal213]

Hey guys, looking for what tips and materials i should think about using for a swing away

Now i have an offroad armoury rear bar for my jimny, plan on using a 30" tire and wheel.

Want it to swing away with the door, but the hinge may be quiet a way off the original. Anything i need to pay attention to with this?

[Blkfxx]

Have a look at 31zooks rear bar and swing away
viewtopic.php?p=803749#p803749

[pezz]

Another one to look at is the aev jk swing away, its a similar design
I have on on my jk and its great, if you look at one in the flesh, it will make your design easier to sort out

[cal213]

Awesome ill check em out

I did also see a vid of 31zooks on youtube, its got a funky slide thing on it to move with the rear door. Thats the part that could bugger me up

[jimny_timmy]

It's very simple yet super effective. I'm sure he'd show you some pics if you were interested. Just a rose joint over some round bar

[shiv]

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=29173

My one was separate to the door thou but just ideas

[Gwagensteve]

What's so bad about having the tyre on the door? Do you even need a 30" spare?

Jimny's have such little payload to play with I wouldn't be building a swing away tyre carrier. Anything durable will be reasonably heavy and IMHO it's weight for the sake of weight.

Personally, I'd be running the smallest, lightest, narrowest spare I could get away with on the door.

[shiv]

^^

Is what I currently run on my current sierra

[jdk81]

I had a tyre carrier
it was handy, but also in the way sometimes.
As steve said, it was weight for the sake of weight.

My car became noticeably more capable after I removed it and the full sized spare.
I had a sierra with 1.6, rear locker, gears and 33" tyres, 2" bl, 2" ome, but I was rapidly eroding its capability due to adding weight.

Modifying a Sierra/jimny like its a tourer is a huge sacrifice, and moving in the wrong direction imo.
Its not a landcruiser or patrol, dont compete for their version of cool/capability as a jimny/sierra will lose.
Even tourer spec big cars lose capability with their extra weight, but its less noticeable.


As steve said, run the lightest tyre/rim combo you can.

[vet 180]

meh

http://image.made-in-china.com/44f3j00z ... r-Foam.jpg

she'll be right

[Hairy]

Stub axles off old trailers make good hinges for wheel carriers. Just mount that on the back and start from there.

[Gwagensteve]

No, actually they don't. Taper roller bearings are not designed for high static load (As in not constantly rotating). The bearings wallow out the races and the carriers get sloppy quickly. It's the correct application for a bushing.

A number of professional workshops learned this the hard way.

Additionally, I think there is only one source (somewhere in WA) for steel trailer hubs suitable for making a carrier. Cast trailer hubs are a pain to weld.

[bohuler]

I have a swing away kit under the house. I bought it to make a swing away on my sierra yonks ago. Proper aussie make kit. It has surface rust on it so you can have it for $50 plus postage. I will have to get a pic tomorrow as im into my sunday drinking session to cope with the following week
Dave

[jdk81]

Gwagensteve wrote:

No, actually they don't. Taper roller bearings are not designed for high static load (As in not constantly rotating). The bearings wallow out the races and the carriers get sloppy quickly. It's the correct application for a bushing.

A number of professional workshops learned this the hard way.

Additionally, I think there is only one source (somewhere in WA) for steel trailer hubs suitable for making a carrier. Cast trailer hubs are a pain to weld.

+1
no go on stub axles

I used a stub axle and a cut down lazy hub.
It smashed the bearings and cracked the races.

More on swing away carriers
Where I used to work did testing for a big name brand.
The swing away carriers always cracked.
no idea about now, testing might be done in house, as we didnt do more testing for them.

[Hairy]

I made a wheel carrier using a trailer stub axle about 10 years ago for the back of my 80 series Land cruiser. Coming from Alice Springs we travelled the Tanami Rd, Finke Track and a lot of the worst corrugated roads you will find in Australia countless times.
Only recently I noticed a bit of movement in the axle so I removed the dust cap and re tightened it.....it has since developed some play , so I assume its buggered (but still working fine, just squeak's a little.)
That carrier cost me around $15 to build and lasted around 10 years..............If you call that not suitable or value for money you expect a lot more out of your vehicles than me.....each to their own I guess........but if I needed another one I wouldn't hesitate using another stub axle.

[Gwagensteve]

It's great you've had a good run from trailer bearings. Many others haven't, and have had issues with ongoing maintenance, bearing failure, water ingress etc.

In any case, It doesn't mean there's any point building one for a Sierra, nor is there any point building a 25Kg bar and carrier to carry a 25Kg spare tyre which will never be used. 50Kg is over 10% of the payload of the Sierra, and means that with the driver in the car, a tank of fuel, and the swing away+heavy tyre, over 30% of the cars payload has been used. That doesn't leave much for other accessories/load.

In my 20-odd years playing with Sierras. I've yet to see an actual puncture in a light truck tyre on a sierra, let alone a failure that wasn't repairable with a compressor, a spare valve core and a tyre lever.

Steve.

[Hairy]

Gwagensteve wrote:

It's great you've had a good run from trailer bearings. Many others haven't, and have had issues with ongoing maintenance, bearing failure, water ingress etc.

In any case, It doesn't mean there's any point building one for a Sierra, nor is there any point building a 25Kg bar and carrier to carry a 25Kg spare tyre which will never be used. 50Kg is over 10% of the payload of the Sierra, and means that with the driver in the car, a tank of fuel, and the swing away+heavy tyre, over 30% of the cars payload has been used. That doesn't leave much for other accessories/load.

In my 20-odd years playing with Sierras. I've yet to see an actual puncture in a light truck tyre on a sierra, let alone a failure that wasn't repairable with a compressor, a spare valve core and a tyre lever.

Steve.

I have to agree with that........Ive spent my tyre repairing life , changing tyres on things like trucks , Toyotas, graders, backhoes etc. out in the desert.
I avoid repairing tyres on the side of the road at all cost!!!!
Until I got the Suzi..........My son accidentally unscrewed the tubeless valve the other day as we were about to go fishing and had to take the tyre off to put the nut back on the back of the valve. I think we had the wheel back on , pumped up and on the road with in one beer!!!! Piece of piss.....LOL

[Gwagensteve]

Exactly. The time/money/weight/hassle of having and mounting a matching spare (especially if it's large) IMHO just isn't warranted. Tyre levers, a tubeless repair kit, a compressor (which anyone travelling off road will have anyway) and a couple of spare valves will cover pretty much anything.

If you're really paranoid, run the narrowest/lightest tyre possible as a temporary spare - enough to get you out of a difficult position if repair is time consuming/complex. A 6.50 or 7.00 16 on a 4.5" LJ/16" Sierra rim is plenty and puts stuff all leverage on the back door compared to a 15X7 and 31" tyre (or worse)

A 7.50 16 or 9X34 can work as a temporary spare for a 35 or bigger.

I built an elaborate spare rack for Piggles years ago. It's gone to the tip. I have tyres and wheels for a full size, matching spare but don't see any point.

Steve.

[shiv]

Where do you get 9x34s?

[Gwagensteve]

Swampers. New or second hand. Turn up in 15's and 16's.

[shiv]

damn, was hoping for a less aggressive tyre