[christover1]

Zook_Fan wrote:

Don't worry, you've got more than one shot. ARB have done mine twice and it will be going back a third time to be put in the right spot..

Hope they fill all the holes, or ya diff oil will get a cold draft.

[Zook_Fan]

Yeah they plug them but not in what I would call a professional way.

[christover1]

Zook_Fan wrote:

Yeah they plug them but not in what I would call a professional way.

Sometimes I am glad I do stuff myself.
I have lots of time to think, measure, and guesstimate stuff.
Though sometimes wish I didn't

[christover1]

New 1/4npt tap finally came, better late then never.
I used my old broken centre (and a yard broom) to help decide where the tubing needed to run.
The tube has a fair bit of movement to allow for.
The air input floats back and forward by design.
And also need to allow for tube to be able to slide through when refitting pumpkin,
though once in it has more room available..
Think I happy with it, will have another think, and check its operation before refitting.

[christover1]

Pumpkin back in place, tube cleared on sliding through, and once in place
Damn it weighs much more than it did, good for COG I reckon
Had to get creative with straps and jacks as it is now beyond my arms :O
Start on stringing the pretty blue air line tomorrow.

[christover1]

Finally finished.
Happy with the position of the airline at the pumpkin, ties in well with the diff breather line.
Air hose was long enough to do 2 zooks.
Rather than shortening, I thought coil a bit of it up, in case I break the line underneath.
Just pull it through for a quick fix.
Tis a thought anyway
It all is working the way it should,
so now it is just the test of time (and my fitting)
So will report back after it has been well used.

[christover1]

Had a few air leaks at joints, so thread tape or paste is important.

[Gwagensteve]

Might be wrong here, but I didn't think any of the airlocker style fittings sealed on the threads - they're a compression fitting or are O ringed?

Steve.

[christover1]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Might be wrong here, but I didn't think any of the airlocker style fittings sealed on the threads - they're a compression fitting or are O ringed?

Steve.

Instructions said I should thread tape or paste most fittings.
I didn't think they would need it.
But some did.
I did not use thread tape on diff end joint of airline, it sealed fine with its O rings.
(Though was a bit hard to get on until I warmed the airline up)
But did tape the bulk head fitting.
Push in type connector at compressor end sealed great.
But there are brass fittings into the compressor that did need tape.
Some had O rings, too.
I should have followed the directions, rather than just read them

[mrw82]

Personally I would cut the hose to length and put the excess in the toolbox and get a 5mm push fit joiner (or 2) for repairs. The heat in the engine bay (especially near the extractors) could make the hose brittle over time and It would just crack when you try to straighten it out to rerun it.

[christover1]

good point.

[christover1]

I forgot to mention, the air input at the diff carrier had O-ring seals already fitted, but came with a spare set.
The spares were a H or X type seal. (unsure of terminology)
The O rings ones leaked quite a lot in bench test, so I fitted the new ones, and leaks were solved.
In real world 2wd dirt road testing, compressor starts up every 2 minutes or so, for a short burst.
Happy with that, as long as it stays locked.
Not tried any proper off roading yet, but will do soon.

[Mike57]

Chris, the short bursts suggests that you have a small leak. My ARB locker does not need additional air at all once locked. The leak could be at the compressor end.

[christover1]

Mike57 wrote:

Chris, the short bursts suggests that you have a small leak. My ARB locker does not need additional air at all once locked. The leak could be at the compressor end.

Will check it all out again.
Did have a few leaks from around compressor fittings.
Sealing surface could have been christovered, too, as I am not an expert

[christover1]

In real world off roading it functioned great.
Compressor only tops up ever 5 minutes now.
Not concerned by that.
Now lets hope it lasts longer than the car

[christover1]

Fuse blew at some stage out in the high country.
Could not find a replacement locally.
It is a mini spade 40 amp.
Tried a 30Amp, but only lasted 10 minutes.
So I will replace it with a better fuse holder and a 40 amp bigger fuse.
Will check if there is a wiring fault, too.
And see what happens.

[GraphicX]

these locker & compressor sets are now listed on US ebay, suzuki fit with international shipping too.

[christover1]

Replaced fuse holder and fuse type and it was working ok for quite a while, but then blew again.
So guess its fault finding time.
I was on very rough tracks, so will check for vibration damage first.

[christover1]

Not had chance to look at the fusing issue yet, but found a good link to ideas and other links on Pirate that could be helpful.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general- ... fuses.html

[Gwagensteve]

I'm getting a "page not found" when I put that link in Chris.

You don't have an ARB compressor though, yes? You have the Chinasoong copy?

40 amps is a pretty big fuse to blow (repeatedly) I'd suggest there's an issue with the compressor.

[fordem]

GraphicX wrote:

these locker & compressor sets are now listed on US ebay, suzuki fit with international shipping too.

What are you searching for - I haven't been able to find anything.

[christover1]

Links working for me.
I realise I don't have an ARB compressor,
But as it is copy, fault finding would be similar.
I know where to start looking, now.
Plenty of alternative compressors if need be.

[Gwagensteve]

Link opened now, and this is the gist of the thread as I see.

A) An unknown model of ARB air compressor draws 25A at 0psi - Actual tech from Tim Lund
B)Make sure your grounds are good (but the person who posted this doesn't understand electricity)
C)The compressor turned out to be faulty. Solution from the OP.

If your compressor is using a "mini" spade fuse - the same size as those in the Vitara fuse box, then that fuse isn't able to withstand over about 30A continuous. That's due to the design of the terminals - they get hot and will fail - hence the difficulty finding 40A spade fuses - they can't withstand that rating.

If it's using the even smaller spade fuses now favoured by car manufacturers, there's no way it will last at 30A.

ARB now use very large fuses on their compressors to overcome this problem. They're MASSIVE, and I have two, one for each motor on my twin piston compressor. I wouldn't be surprised if the Chinasoong compressor has below par wiring, but that shouldn't be causing the problem itself.

However, what I'm talking about here isn't a fuse failure, it's a fuse holder failure which will generate enough heat to structurally fail the fuse the effect is the same but the cause is different. If the fuse is instantly popping, you have a fault in the compressor. The compressor shouldn't draw more than 40A on startup, even against the 80psi pressure switch cutoff.

I would suggest using an ammeter to confirm current draw at idle, then watch it as the compressor fills.

Steve.

[christover1]

That's the plan.
It runs properly at start up, it works fine for a while before it blows.

Yes it came with a very tiny 40A blade fuse.
Type now fitted is same size as the Vits but in 40A.
If I don't find any faults will happily put a man sized fuse on.
Plenty of them in the auto shop.
But not till I make sure it is safe.

[Gwagensteve]

OK, now I'm getting a better picture.

Neither small blade fuse can flow 40A. The spade terminals are physically too small.

Until you rectify this you won't be able to properly troubleshoot the compressor. There may be nothing wrong with it.

[Blkfxx]

Have a look at MAXI fuses

[christover1]

Put new fuse in, compressor started up, made odd rattley noises and would not turn off.
Removed the pressure switch to test, and no pressure in it at all.
So new fuse possibly blew because compressor was on too long, or crapped inside itself.
Could be the loose piston issue Leigh had.
Back has said no more today, so compressor is on kitchen bench till another day.

[christover1]

Found a problem, hopefully it is the problem.
Was a few loose bolts, too, so will lock tite things.
The rubbery/felty bit was found loose on top of the piston.
Can't find any other stray bits anywhere.
I suspect whatever shape it was, it was supposed to be on the end of the spring,
which was inside the valve plate bit.
Will try to make a seal to test theory,
and maybe buy a replacement later if it works.

[christover1]

My dodgy rubber seal worked great, but alas compressor is still going in the bin.
It worked, and stopped blowing fuses for about 5 minutes, then the motor stopped and silent nothingness.
Fuse was still good.
Right at the start the popular opinion was locker will be fine, but you will soon toss the compressor.
Guess popular opinion is correct this time.
Was worth a days stuffing around to try and sort it.
Time to save for a good one.
May try again to fix, but won't throw money at it.

[christover1]

Well it is not just cheap dodgy compressors that let you down.
My new ARB compressor was turning on a lot, so I did a leak check.
It has a crack in the air tank, and a pin hole, near the pressure switch
Can't be sure if it was always there, or wether I fitted something wrong?
Guess I taking a trip back to Piranha and try my luck.