[evilmonkey]

Hi everyone. So today i went and picked up my new project, a 97 mg410 ute.
So im driving it home, and what do you know, i needed to use the brakes, which didnt really do a whole lot. They wouldnt even lock up on the dirt with me bouncing on the pedal.
So im aware that these utes dont use a booster, which im attributing to most of the issue im having(i will be replacing the pads and drums in the next few weeks)

So, ive researched on here and google, and i cant seem to find out wether i can just grab a booster and master cylinder off a sierra with said(ie 96 or so model) and bolt in on with little effort?

Ive heard these rigs are easy to work on, so im hoping thats the case. When fixed up its going to be my daily, and i cant be running it with dodgy brakes like ive got atm lol

Cheers in advance for any help

[sideways]

It shouldn't have any issues locking up the brakes on tarmac, let alone dirt. They really aren't that bad. Boosted ones aren't massively better either, it's quite a small booster. I'd start by replacing the pads and checking nothing is seized.

I'm pretty sure the booster off any 1.3l Sierra will bolt on, someone will be able to confirm.

[dougies_tx5turbo]

Lwb vitara brake upgrade is way to go if you want better braking
Pm sent

[evilmonkey]

Cheers guys.

I think first things first is to replace pads and fluids, and check the slave cylinders, see if i can get this thing a touch safer for the time being. Im worried about even taking it offroad at the moment, its that bad

[AckerDackerly]

evilmonkey wrote:

Cheers guys.

I think first things first is to replace pads and fluids, and check the slave cylinders, see if i can get this thing a touch safer for the time being. Im worried about even taking it offroad at the moment, its that bad

Before you get too carried away with pads and shoes, you might try bleeding the brake system to get rid of trapped air in the system especially if the pads and shoes are not severely worn down. Having to pump the brakes tends to indicate that there is air - which is compressible while brake fluid is not - in the lines.

To keep this a simple one-person job, I like to buy a set of 4 "speed-bleeders" - one for each wheel. Basically these devices replace the bleeding nuts on the calipers and brake cylinders They have a one-way valve built into them that allows you to pump the brake pedal without worrying about air being sucked back into the system when you release the pedal. You simply unscrew the plug a bit, then start pumping and filling. Once the fluid runs clear (no air bubbles- tiny or otherwise), you re-tighten it and move to the next wheel cylinder/caliper. They make brake repairs in the field very simple. You should be able to find them at the local auto-factors or possibly a speed or auto specialty shop.

Always remember to start bleeding at the farthest-away brake cylinder from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest brake cylinder/ caliper. DO NOT let the brake fluid reservoir completely drain out! Once you get air in the master cylinder, things get tricky. So keep checking and topping off the reservoir as you go.

Don't forget to install a length of rubber drain tube to the end of the speed brake nut to divert old brake fluid into a container. Brake fluid is nasty stuff and should be disposed of properly.

I hope that this helps!

[alien]

dougies_tx5turbo wrote:

Lwb vitara brake upgrade is way to go if you want better braking
Pm sent

Its totally unnecessary to upgrade the front brakes to Vitara ones... I've done it and gone back to sierra discs and running 31's with no issues. The only difference between the Vitara rotors & calipers is that its EASIER to lock up the front end. The standard fitment can still do this, it just takes more pedal pressure, and only a few kilos too, not much.

What everyone else said about basic maintenance is by far a priority to get the brakes working properly again.

[dougies_tx5turbo]

I agree with the following statement, bleeding the system correctly and checking it all over as we discussed in a private pm but i disagree with sierra brakes are better.
In my opinion vitara brakes are way better than sierra and jimny brakes. I wouldnt go back after the experiences ive had with the vitara brakes.

[tanshi]

I loved my LWB Vitara brakes too.

[alien]

I never said i didn't like mine with Vit brakes, just that the only difference was the pedal pressure was reduced. Both brakes are equally capable of stopping the car. I thrash mine on the road and have never had issues with the stock brakes fading, so the argument that the bigger rotors and calipers reduce fading doesn't really work either.

[Marko_SJ]

alien wrote:

I never said i didn't like mine with Vit brakes, just that the only difference was the pedal pressure was reduced. Both brakes are equally capable of stopping the car. I thrash mine on the road and have never had issues with the stock brakes fading, so the argument that the bigger rotors and calipers reduce fading doesn't really work either.

How about trailer towing? much help there?

[whincup]

i had same issue in my mg410 when i bought it, i replaced EVERYTHING brake related, other than rear brake drums themselves & the steel lines... biggest help actually was making sure the hand brake was adjusted properly. brake pedal just wouldnt remain firm if the cable was too loose, no idea why but its something i read on auszookers. i did some research into putting a booster in these, general consensus is you cant just put one on these firewalls as it puts too much stress on the metal. either way, i doubt you'd get a fix to your issue with the use of one

regarding vitara brakes, i found it made the pedal slightly softer, but only marginally. vented rotors/larger pads is the reason for the upgrade, so would be suitable for towing.

[alien]

Marko_SJ wrote:

alien wrote:

I never said i didn't like mine with Vit brakes, just that the only difference was the pedal pressure was reduced. Both brakes are equally capable of stopping the car. I thrash mine on the road and have never had issues with the stock brakes fading, so the argument that the bigger rotors and calipers reduce fading doesn't really work either.

How about trailer towing? much help there?

no one at any stage until now mentioned towing - just that it wouldn't lock up the brakes on a dirt road, which stock brakes are more than capable of.

[Marko_SJ]

alien wrote:

Marko_SJ wrote:

alien wrote:

I never said i didn't like mine with Vit brakes, just that the only difference was the pedal pressure was reduced. Both brakes are equally capable of stopping the car. I thrash mine on the road and have never had issues with the stock brakes fading, so the argument that the bigger rotors and calipers reduce fading doesn't really work either.

How about trailer towing? much help there?

no one at any stage until now mentioned towing - just that it wouldn't lock up the brakes on a dirt road, which stock brakes are more than capable of.

Ummmm.... I did... because I wanted to know from someone who's tried both if they offer an improvement when towing?

[alien]

Oh right - i thought you were having a dig.. haha

No idea - i never tow anything with mine.

[evilmonkey]

Yeah, the first thing i plan on doing is bleeding the brakes.
Going to check the brake lines while im under her as well, though considering its a 97 model i figure they should be in fairly decent condition.

Definitely gotta get these brakes working before i drop a new engine in her lol

[Marko_SJ]

alien wrote:

Oh right - i thought you were having a dig.. haha

No idea - i never tow anything with mine.

Nope, its a real slow day at work if I'm taking digs at people on AZ, and I'm on holidays at the moment .

[masterA]

I had a similar problem with my maruti....the brakes were attrocious!!!

First thing is get a set of new rear drums and brakes....adjust them properly and your brakes should be back to 80%
As others suggested, bleed the brakes and if you really want some feel and stopping power, get the booster

I recently got a booster installed and it was AMAZING difference....it feels like a new car but it is not necessary.
Even when the booster got fitted at first i didn't notice much difference as my rear drums were worn and even though the pads had plenty of meat they weren't doing anything.

[whincup]

have a read of this: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=41468&hilit=drum+brake

i still say adjust the handbrake cable properly as per factory manual, it fixed the issue in that thread, and fixed my spongy brakes in my maruti after id spent a grand on new brake components trying to fix the issue. its a 10 minute adjustment, so if it doesnt work its only 10 minutes lost, if it does work it could have saved you a small fortune.

those drums are bludy expensive, so before replacing them id take yours to a good brake specialist to have them measured, and if necessary, machined.

[evilmonkey]

Hey people, turns out the problem was different from what everyone suggested.

The axle seals have gone, leaking grease and whatnot straight into the drums. So that might explain the lack of braking ability lol

I figure its time for seals and bearings, pick them up on payday