[Tonner]

Probably a stupid question but here goes anyway, if I fit a 2" suspension lift is there anything else that should be changed apart from the springs and shocks? Its going into an SJ70, I already have new bushes and shackle pins.

Cheers

[Gwagensteve]

No, nothing.

[sideways]

It's a good idea to get some new U bolts.

[Tonner]

Thanks

[want33s]

After fitting new suspension, flex the car up and check that the brake flexi hoses aren't stretched tight.
You may need to fit longer hoses.

[Tonner]

want33s wrote:

After fitting new suspension, flex the car up and check that the brake flexi hoses aren't stretched tight.
You may need to fit longer hoses.

All good, though a prick of a job by yourself

[Tonner]

Question the suspension is now pretty hard and Im guess up in the spine wrecking area, can you take leafs out to soften it up? It has 5 leafs in the front and Im seriously thinking about removing one.

[sideways]

Yep, remove the lower ones first.

[want33s]

Tonner wrote:

want33s wrote:

After fitting new suspension, flex the car up and check that the brake flexi hoses aren't stretched tight.
You may need to fit longer hoses.

All good, though a prick of a job by yourself

Do you mean bleeding the brakes after replacing the hoses?

I use a couple of metres of aquarium air line. Put one end on bleed nipple and the other in the master reservoir. Then pump the pedal till no more air comes out. Start with wheel closest to master and work out.

[Tonner]

want33s wrote:

Tonner wrote:

want33s wrote:

After fitting new suspension, flex the car up and check that the brake flexi hoses aren't stretched tight.
You may need to fit longer hoses.

All good, though a prick of a job by yourself

Do you mean bleeding the brakes after replacing the hoses?

I use a couple of metres of aquarium air line. Put one end on bleed nipple and the other in the master reservoir. Then pump the pedal till no more air comes out. Start with wheel closest to master and work out.

No sorry mate I meant fitting the springs.....lol....... I bought a one man bleeder gizmo a few months back and it works a treat provided you don't loosen the bleed screw to far.

[Tonner]

sideways wrote:

Yep, remove the lower ones first.

so by lower do you meen the shortest ones first

[fordem]

want33s wrote:

Put one end on bleed nipple and the other in the master reservoir.

Bad idea - REALLY BAD IDEA.

The fluid coming out of the caliper/wheel cylinder is almost always contaminated with rust & dirt, you're putting that back into the braking system - you're also risking introducing what is known as "entrained air" - tiny microscopic bubbles that will eventually coalesce into larger bubbles and you'll be right back where you started - needing to bleed the system again.

Also - brake fluid is hygroscopic - it absorbs moisture from the air - and needs to be replaced every few years, why not take the opportunity to pump fresh new fluid from a sealed container through the system, flushing out all the contaminated fluid and be done with it.

[want33s]

OK so I forgot to say to discard the first flush of fluid. Goes without saying doesn't it?

If bleeding after replacing lines most of the system will be empty so no worries about water absorption.

As for "entrained air" , you only get that in a pressurised system. With bleeder valve open there is virtually NO pressure in system even when pumping pedal.