[Gwagensteve]

old school, of course the heat killed it. The real question is where the heat came from. My guess is it didn't get that hot from normal converter slip (circa 150rpm). A 300K old auto, new fluid or not, is likely to be pretty worn. If there is slip on the bands you'll cook the fluid very, very quickly. this might not have shown up in normal driving, but on the beach at high load it'll show very quickly.

I'm still of the opinion a manual lock won't measurably prolong the life of the auto. All the same wear points are still experiencing the same wear, theres no added line pressure to prevent slip or clamp anything harder internally. Maybe it drops trans temp by 10-15˚C. I doubt it's even that much, because as I've said, once you're over the stall speed of the converter, slip is very minimal.

If you were/are experiencing more than about 150rpm of slip, or the effect of the converter lock was very obvious, I'd suggest that's more evidence of a worn auto/converter.

So yes, heat killed your auto, but i reckon it was on its last legs, and if it hadn't been, it wouldn't have got hot enough to kill it.

[Joshyboy26]

Im not really knowledgeable with these autos but wether they have a kickdown cable or what not but would it be better to lock that all the way out or have something to increase line pressure and shiz and then with a lock up tc would be heaps better

[oldschool]

Well I'd still like to see if it locks in third when the new box goes in coz the current one never did.

[Gwagensteve]

I have a Vitara AW-4 in my car and converter slip is so minimal in 3rd I can't tell if the converter locks in 3rd or not- ergo there shouldn't be enough heat generated via converter slip in third unlocked to make any difference to trans temps. See where I am going here? Locking the converter on a shagged transmission doesn't un-shag it.

Steve.

[atari4x4]

Joshyboy26 wrote:

Im not really knowledgeable with these autos but wether they have a kickdown cable or what not but would it be better to lock that all the way out or have something to increase line pressure and shiz and then with a lock up tc would be heaps better

there is kickdown cable on the auto SV's, there is a an adjustment measurement in the FSM?

[murcod]

The four speed auto XL-7's also have the kick down cable.

[atari4x4]

i've always run mine at the lower end of the measurement 0.8-1.5mm from memory, when i had the trans serviced & the rear main done by suzuki in the city they left it at the higher side & it was always a bit doughy to kick down (1.1-1.2mm). i've recently bought it back to 0.9mm & the thing has come alive.

don't diddle the OD button or play with the shifter as much now.

[christover1]

Think I need to adjust mine, I never thought of it till you mentioned it.

[atari4x4]

you'll need to refer to the gecko book of tuning & get the appropriate stage, you might need stage 8 being a 1.6?

i haven't gone to stage 8 yet but it did like many other things make a noticeable difference stepping down from stage 11-12.

[mudmav]

Love a good piss take ^^^

[GeckoXL7]

Cant comment on GV auto but My stage 3 racing clutch is going perfectly fine by the way and cant modulate pfft...

[atari4x4]

just like you're xl-7 is a capable offroader?