[prickle]

Hi

Just heading out the drive for a weekend away .. long weekend down here ... and the motor revved a bit between gear changes or didn't go back to lower revs between gear changes .. now running rough and there is a gear slipping grinding / crunching type noise coming from the rear of the motor ... around fuel pump or the distributor area

SO ... what do you you guys think

... process of elimination .. start point ???


Stuart

Sierra 1300 motor

[jdk81]

Explain the over rev part please, admitting a mistake will save us all time etc
extend of overrev? Redline? Beyond redline?

Did you not close the throttle (release the pedal etc), prior to engaging clutch and allow it to way over rev?
or did it somehow over rev by itself? Possible carby issue?

Dizzy done up tight?
Possible clutch slipping?
Possible over rev and damage to engine?

[prickle]

jdk81 wrote:

Explain the over rev part please, admitting a mistake will save us all time etc
extend of overrev? Redline? Beyond redline?

Did you not close the throttle (release the pedal etc), prior to engaging clutch and allow it to way over rev?
or did it somehow over rev by itself? Possible carby issue?

Dizzy done up tight?
Possible clutch slipping?
Possible over rev and damage to engine?

Over rev ... so normal gear change back off accelerator and clutch in .. revs did not drop back .. first though was the throttle cable was sticking ... no red line once I let the clutch out .. back to normal and stayed normal BUT the grinding noise started ... just intermittent initially but by the time I limped home (200 mtrs) it was constant noise

Just uploading a vid with the noise

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArsdYZUIk90 makes my eyes water just listening to it

Stuart

[jdk81]

Video is private
Any loss of drive?

[prickle]

jdk81 wrote:

Video is private
Any loss of drive?

Opps .. sorry should be fine now
No loss of drive

[jdk81]

So during the over rev incident it went beyond red line.

Sound is familiar, it sounds like a lot like two engines i've had experience terminal failure, one was catastrophic with chunks of block and con rod going everywhere.

good luck.

[prickle]

... thats not what I wanted to hear
My saying over rev was probably an overstatement .. it got no where near redline .. the revs didn't drop when I took my foot off of the accelerator and I put the clutch in .. so probably reved for less than 1 second before I let the clutch out .. then it would idle just rough .. that noise was intermittent initially but now when I restart it is constant

[MrRocky]

Drop the oil
Pull rocker cover off
Remove flywheel inspection plate

[prickle]

Bugger bugger bugger .. I've had a bit of a look and it's not good No4 spark plug has been battered flat ... so I'm guessing something has let go ... no shit Sherlock

Dropped the oil out as suggested by Mr Rocky ... nothing on the magnetic sump plug

So next step is

Motor out
* Head off
* Sump off
* Repair

OR .. given the motor may have 333,000 kms on (don't know if this is the original motor or not)

Source a replacement or maybe even something a little bigger .... something I had been thinking about of late

Stuart

[henno]

Don't expect that #4 piston or cylinder to be in particularly good shape.

[prickle]

Just a quick update

Whipped the head off yesterday . and not real sure what I would find.

It appears a piece of metal has made it's way into the cylinder .. everything piston / valves "seem" ok ... everything seems solid .. the pix below show that the metal fragment banged around the cylinder / head ( did flatten the spark plug) .. it's hard to work out what the metal fragment was .. I'm assuming something made it's way down through the carbie and eventually got past the intake valve and into the cylinder .. I cant see how else it got in there.

I thought I'd take the valves out just to make sure they were damaged but of course somewhere in it's 30 yr history someone has had a go at removing the hex screws .. 2 rounded heads and a stripped thread

Time to ponder the next step

[jdk81]

Id pull the valves out and check inside the head etc.
Id say that load has done damage to the rod bearings.

Check the crank and see if it needs to be ground and replace the crank and rod bearings etc.

It looks like a lot of work to repair it

[prickle]

Thanks jdk81
I guess thats my dilemma ...
I thought I had a replacement but it sold before I could get to have alook
im reluctant to spend too much time / $$$ on a motor that may be rooted anyway

[jdk81]

I'm surprised you haven't got bent valves etc.
Id expect that chunk of metal to be from inside the head.
Its not worth rebuilding, unless you desire to keep the original engine number.

Chucking coin at a 1.3 carby is fruitless imo.
At the least Id put a g16a in, shitful time, but you can considering which engine options you now want.
Efi is awesome, much better than carby.

I went through similar with my daily baleno.
Original motor spun a bearing. I put a replacement motor in from a wrecker.
It probably had pre-exisiting condition, as it lasted 200km and exploded.

I bought new rod and crank bearings for original motor.
Found it had cracked blocked from crank to top between cyl 1 and 2.
I put a $50 replacement motor in (from forum member) and i redid the crank and rod bearings, and a head job while i had all the parts.
Seems to be good.
Plenty of shitful along the way

[MrRocky]

I wouldnt have even pulled it apart.
Take carby, sump and pickup off and throw the rest in the bin.
Grab a cheapie 1.3 and get it back on the road

[prickle]

... I was curious as to what had let go ... trying to find a replacement as we speak

[prickle]

Found a 1300 motor .. they want $1k for it ... this could take a while

[henno]

$1k? You could buy an entire Baleno for half that.