[BigRay]

I have a 99 Jimny G13bb

Since getting my rebuilt engine and gearbox back from a Suzuki specialist (I won't name them), I have had quite a few problems as follows..

- Tried to start the engine for the first time. Had no compression and was sucking from the exhaust and blowing out the intake. Turns out there was no woodruff key on the crank for the timing belt pulley and timing was set 180 degrees out.
- After the first drive the engine was underpowered and sounded like a diesel engine. When checking the valve clearances I found the exhaust set far too tight and the inlets far too loose.
- There were loose bolts all over the gearbox and so I torqued them all before installing it. The gearbox now leaks where the casings meet and at the rear seal.
- The engine and gearbox have done 550kms since the installation and have found the inlet gasket leaking coolant, the cam sensor housing leaking oil and the head gasket weeping coolant in 4 places. I am currently in the process of replacing the head gasket and related parts.
- The timing belt tensioner pulley has also failed (new)

The engine and gearbox are under warranty but I would prefer to not use it as the specialists will be fixing it all and I am uncomfortable with that after seeing their work. The repairs will also be a warranty job, and warranty jobs don't pay, so I am concerned that it would be a rushed repair. What would you do? Would you fix it all and see how it goes or take it back to them?

Thanks,
Ray

[whincup]

id take it back, dont get angry as such, but be very adamant about them fixing it asap and dont take no for an answer. any business worth more than their weight in dog shit would comply and fix it immediately. you having replaced the head gasket yourself since does make me think they may attempt to use that to say the warrantys void, but if they'd done it properly first time around you wouldn't have had to do it.

[BigRay]

When the engine was installed I did a compression test (after the timing was sorted) and all cylinders were around 150 psi but should be close to 200 psi. If the compression isn't where it should be when the engine is run in I am going with your plan.

Thanks,
Ray

[BigRay]

Is it worth pulling the sump off and checking all the bottom end bolt tensions?

[Simple6]

Everything you open up and touch in that engine is going to mess with you warranty validity. So just be careful with your decisions because it could cost you $$$ later on if the workshop decline to assist due to being opened up by yourself or another workshop.

[Jezza86]

i could be wrong, but if the cylinders have been honed and new rings put in shouldn't the compression be down a little until its run in?