[Chefwoody]

Hi im currently replacing all my radius arm bushes n panhard rod while doing a 2" lift kit. Its a sj80 and ive burnt the old ones out but looks like there was a metal sleeve around the bush on the outside n looks like the new bushes are too big but I dont wanna try n pry this metal out if it isnt a sleeve and I f*ck my radius arm.. help plz...

[jonno_racing]

Yes there is a sleave and it will be bloody tight and hard to remove without the bushing

[Chefwoody]

Cheers mate.. ive had conflicting answers from different mechanics.. obviously the new ones dont have a sleeve.. I have bought the two piece poly tuff bushings..be easy enough to get in.. n 2.5 degree offset for front radius arms.. any ideas on gettin them out because it seems even with a press the 18 yr old bushes are goin to fail before the outer sleeve comes out.. inner crush tube easy as but doesnt seem to wanna give any on the outer.. I started with a small chisel but didnt wanna do any damage to radius arm.. any help appreciated.. cheers

[1DYX]

1) You can use a hacksaw. Dismantle and reassemble with blade inside bush. or

2) Use an old bush, or piece of pipe and a press to push the old one out.

3) Machine a billet block to size and either a RFBH, or a press...

[Chefwoody]

Yea cheers for that mate.. inside of the bush is easy enough to cut out.. just havin trouble with that outside sleeve.. u mean I should keep cuttin n cut a slice through the outer metal sleeve being real careful not to cut into radius arm and then pry it away from the radius arm from that cut? Seems to be seized in their nice and tight

[Scrawny]

Hammer and chisel also works ok

[1DYX]

Chefwoody wrote:

Yea cheers for that mate.. inside of the bush is easy enough to cut out.. just havin trouble with that outside sleeve.. u mean I should keep cuttin n cut a slice through the outer metal sleeve being real careful not to cut into radius arm and then pry it away from the radius arm from that cut? Seems to be seized in their nice and tight

I was talking about the outer sleeve...

yes and yes.

... forgot about the cold chisel. But thats not a great method, tend to put burrs on the inside orf the radius arm section, then peeps dont sand them back, slap in the new bushes, and tada! chewed out bushes.

[Scrawny]

1DYX wrote:

... forgot about the cold chisel. But thats not a great method, tend to put burrs on the inside orf the radius arm section, then peeps dont sand them back, slap in the new bushes, and tada! chewed out bushes.

The bush shouldn't be moving in the radius arm hole so burs aren't really an issue.

[1DYX]

Yeah, but you said you were using non metal bushed poly ones?

The only reason the black rubber ones dont move, is because they are PRESSED in.

The other thing to remember, is that the bolt cant be tightened up dead tight, as the smaller bush (on black rubber ones, anyways) is also fixed, so if you tighten them up, the rubber can tear.

[Chefwoody]

Thanks heaps for all that u guys are have been plenty helpful. They are the poly bushes with crush tubes and no outer metal sleeve so thanks for all that info mate grately appreciated

[coily96]

Before i bought my press i would remove the crush tube (inner) hacksaw through the rubber that was left, hacksaw through the outer thin sleeve in two spots, hammer and chisel until it folds up on itself and falls out.

FYI an old G13BA timing belt idler pulley is the perfect size using a press to push them through.

[Scrawny]

1DYX wrote:

Yeah, but you said you were using non metal bushed poly ones?

The only reason the black rubber ones dont move, is because they are PRESSED in.

The other thing to remember, is that the bolt cant be tightened up dead tight, as the smaller bush (on black rubber ones, anyways) is also fixed, so if you tighten them up, the rubber can tear.

This doesn't make sense. The bush is designed to flex, that's how it works.

[got_bar_work]

Be careful with plastic bushes. You will lose flex and can rip the brackets off the housing if they are to hard a compound.

[1DYX]

Scrawn wrote:

1DYX wrote:

Yeah, but you said you were using non metal bushed poly ones?

The only reason the black rubber ones dont move, is because they are PRESSED in.

The other thing to remember, is that the bolt cant be tightened up dead tight, as the smaller bush (on black rubber ones, anyways) is also fixed, so if you tighten them up, the rubber can tear.

This doesn't make sense. The bush is designed to flex, that's how it works.

Yeah it made sense in my head...

imagine the black rubber bush that has a metal "crush" tube in the middle, and a large tube on the outside, that is pressed in. The rubber is bonded to both these metal pipes. If the bush is pressed in, the outer tube cannot move. If the inner is crushed up tight, the tube will not move either. Thus, when you flex, the rubber has to cope with lots of torque. This can cause the bond to fail, and destroy the rubber part of the bush. That why the nuts have locking indents (or nyloc nuts) on them. (well, mine do?)
Of course, the inner tube could rotate against the tension provided by the bolt, and this then has a negative effect on the bolt/tube/radius arm mount as well.

In YOUR case, if you are using the nolathane bush without a metal outer, the nolathane bush will rotate inside the radius arm, and can be damaged by any burrs not correctly cleaned up. The inner bolt still should not be torqued up. It should be snugged up to tight, the backed up a half turn.

oo wait. brain fart.... In all cases above, I am talking about the chassis mount end of the radius arm. You may have actually been changing only the diff end bushes...
.

[Scrawny]

I'm not changing any bushes but have done more than my fair share.

The rubber bush is designed to flex/twist this way, that's how it works. If you leave it loose then there's going to be movement in the whole arm under normal operating conditions (steering, braking etc). The bush should be tightened up at normal ride height to stop over flexing the bush.

[1DYX]

Scrawn wrote:

I'm not changing any bushes but have done more than my fair share.

The rubber bush is designed to flex/twist this way, that's how it works. If you leave it loose then there's going to be movement in the whole arm under normal operating conditions (steering, braking etc). The bush should be tightened up at normal ride height to stop over flexing the bush.

Well, I disagree with you, however, I decided in the interests of accuracy, I would investigate.
I downloaded a FSM for a Jimny to see.
Page attached, if it worked. Torque settings for all 3 bolt/nuts = 65 ft/lb.

You are correct and I apologise.

http://s1032.photobucket.com/user/zook3 ... sort=3&o=0