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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:01 pm
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Vehicle: Swb vitara

Post Posted: Fri May 01, 2015 3:35 pm 
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I got a 96 vitara i got shit brakes they are like at the floor amd sumtimes i loose brakes i have replaced the master cylinder ,front pads,rear shoesand rear wheel cylinders would it be the booster? There is no air in the lines either

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Vehicle: 1991 swb vitara JLX

Post Posted: Fri May 01, 2015 8:59 pm 
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i think if the booster fails you just get a pedal that is real hard to push...not quite sure.. i would be looking at air in the lines..pump the pedal slow a few times and if the pedal keeps going to the floor some thing is very wrong.. there is a sequence too bleed the air from the lines.. you could clamp of the rubber lines and try that.. if you get pedal then you know its coming from calipers/wheel cylinders,,,bit hard not being there to look at it

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Location: Oberon, NSW
Vehicle: Drover pickup turk

Post Posted: Fri May 01, 2015 9:16 pm 
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Did you bench bleed the new M/C before installing?

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Location: Georgetown, Guyana
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Post Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 1:32 am 
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First - a quick & easy booster test is to switch the vehicle off and then pump the brake pedal to purge any stored vacuum, with each pump the pedal should travel less until the height at which it stops remains consistent - hold the pedal down with moderate pressure and start the engine - if the pedal drops an inch or two, the booster is fine.

Second - the traditional tell tale for air in the line is not so much pedal travel as pedal 'feel' - air in the system will cause longer than normal travel, but, when the pedal does stop, it will be "spongy" and a good to define that is like if you stepped on a dish washing sponge, you feel the resistance when your foots hits the sponge and then when the sponge compresses until your foot reaches the floor.

There are other causes for long pedal travel, and also for a "spongy" pedal - but if I need to start explaining those you're at the point where you need to decide what your life is worth, because that's what you're putting at risk by continuing to fiddle with a system you may not be familiar with.

Should we be having to explain the correct way to bleed the brakes, the correct sequence to bleed the brakes, etc.?

A few questions ...

- 1 - is the vehicle lifted?
- 2 - when does the problem show up?
- 3 - is it worse after turning a corner?

Lifted Vitaras can have a problem with the front springs bowing outwards and coming into contact with the calipers in turns, forcing the calipers outward and this causes them to push fluid back into the master cylinder, requiring additional pedal travel and possibly requiring multiple pedal strokes before the brakes will work, depending on how tight the turn was.

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Joined: Sat May 15, 2010 8:30 pm
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Location: Brisbane
Vehicle: SQ625

Post Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 9:16 am 
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Did u bleed the valve above the rear diff?

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Vehicle: Swb vitara

Post Posted: Sun May 03, 2015 2:25 pm 
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Blkfxx wrote:
Did you bench bleed the new M/C before installing?

Yer i bleed it before i put it in i took it to a brake place to have a look at it and they only flushed the lines out and rebleed them they wouldn't do anything else voz its lifted and not street legal

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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:01 pm
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Vehicle: Swb vitara

Post Posted: Sun May 03, 2015 2:29 pm 
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fordem wrote:
First - a quick & easy booster test is to switch the vehicle off and then pump the brake pedal to purge any stored vacuum, with each pump the pedal should travel less until the height at which it stops remains consistent - hold the pedal down with moderate pressure and start the engine - if the pedal drops an inch or two, the booster is fine.

Second - the traditional tell tale for air in the line is not so much pedal travel as pedal 'feel' - air in the system will cause longer than normal travel, but, when the pedal does stop, it will be "spongy" and a good to define that is like if you stepped on a dish washing sponge, you feel the resistance when your foots hits the sponge and then when the sponge compresses until your foot reaches the floor.

There are other causes for long pedal travel, and also for a "spongy" pedal - but if I need to start explaining those you're at the point where you need to decide what your life is worth, because that's what you're putting at risk by continuing to fiddle with a system you may not be familiar with.

Should we be having to explain the correct way to bleed the brakes, the correct sequence to bleed the brakes, etc.?

A few questions ...

- 1 - is the vehicle lifted?
- 2 - when does the problem show up?
- 3 - is it worse after turning a corner?

Lifted Vitaras can have a problem with the front springs bowing outwards and coming into contact with the calipers in turns, forcing the calipers outward and this causes them to push fluid back into the master cylinder, requiring additional pedal travel and possibly requiring multiple pedal strokes before the brakes will work, depending on how tight the turn was.

Another thing to is when ur driving along and dont back off the accelerator pedal goes hard
I took it to a break place and they flushed the lines out and new done it all but wouldn't so anything else coz it not street legal
Its lifted
The breaks go shit when its at low revs

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Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2013 8:32 pm
Posts: 207
Location: Brisbane - Mango Hill
Vehicle: Vitara 1990 SWB Soft Top

Post Posted: Sun May 03, 2015 2:44 pm 
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Hey Mate... I'm Parting a 96 SWB Zook... All Brake parts a re avail incl the booster etc.
I'm on Brissy North Side.

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