[GreaseMonkey]

Hey fellas,

Have searched and everyone says when using the F10a it's all in the gearing, ive been using mine as a daily on 29's and top speed of about 80, I plan to run some decent rubber on my Sierra (33"+) just wondering if I should bother with the old 1L or upgrade to the g16b. Personally I don't think a little 1L can turn those size tyres, is anyone running a daily F10a with big tyres?

[mrw82]

Everyone's right, it really is all in the gearing.

[J--A--C--K]

I'd tend to agree, I had to swap back to stock gearing and on 30's the 1.6 in my sierra really struggled ,
But when geared even the tired old 1.3 would cruse along at 110 with no worries.
Not a 1L but points out you'll still need the gearing befor the engine.

[SuziBlu]

You can go the F10A and gearing, but, a G16B geared right is going to be so much better, so much more fun/usable, chalk and cheese.

[alien]

Yep - EFI g16 and gearing - best of both worlds!! Actually allows you to keep up with (actually, go faster than) traffic.

[Marko_SJ]

alien wrote:

Yep - EFI g16 and gearing - best of both worlds!! Actually allows you to keep up with (actually, go faster than) traffic.

Lotsa KE70's in Perth?

Just kidding. A G16b vit I drove blew the doors off my g13a, even towing a trailer.

[GreaseMonkey]

Anyone got an estimate cost for the whole conversion + gearing? Just thought id ask if anyone already knows

[tanshi]

a lot depends on if you can do any of it your self.

other wise your looking at probably 3k + for the engine and about 1k to sort the gearing

[MrRocky]

F10a is woefully underpowered for any type of hwy use with a 31" tyre and 6.5 gears just go a 1.3 or 1.6 and gears if u want 33" tyre

[GreaseMonkey]

Yeah probably going to 1.3, hard to find a 1.6 up here (NT)

[alien]

its a tougher conversion, but what about m15??

[Gwagensteve]

?? There were far more suzukis sold in Australia with a G16 in them than a G13.

Finding a G13 that's still serviceable or hasn't had a cheap and nasty rebuild will be pretty tough in my opinion, with many of them being from old barinas which will still require them to be put into RWD configuration requiring Sierra manifolds, sump, carb, camshaft, distributor, engine mounts, flywheel etc.

Just my opinion. I'd bypass the G13 if I was swapping out a 1.0 and go straight for a G16.

an M15 as some appeal, as does a G13BB from a Jimny.

[GreaseMonkey]

Is a 1.3 harder than a 1.6?

[SuziBlu]

Mostly exactly the same, just the G16 is taller, so a 1.3l bonnet is needed to fit the taller motor.

Its only like an inch or so from memory, others here may help, but its not much.

[GreaseMonkey]

I will justt fit a 1" Body lift, and change bonnet if need be. Still gotta get my head around the EFI side of things.

[SuziBlu]

I went carbs, but the EFS side can be eased pretty painless, as I didn't go that route, not sure who, but you send your loom away, and it gets sorted out for your lil car, plug an play, all crap removed.

[GreaseMonkey]

Ok, if i cant find a 16v i will just have to run the 8v probably going to be easier and surely enough power

But body wise, if i cut off engine mounts from a 1.3 and weld them onto my chasis, will the conversion be exactly the same as doing it on a sj70 (g13 to g16)? as i have a mg410 wt trayback

[SuziBlu]

I have a MG410WT as well, mine is a ute, I G16A is going to make so much of a difference than what you have now, it will be amazing, but, there are some weak points.

Depending on how you drive, your diffs are weak, you are going over double the power, upping tyre size, making it worse.

Mine lasted a long time with the g16A, and that was not stock, quite a power upgrade, head work, cam, big powerful ignition, 38/38 weber, exhaust. Constantly dropping it at 4,5,6,000 rpm, my rear shit itself.

A 1.3l diff fore and aft is a very lovely upgrade, much stronger, 4" wider, so with a lift either body or suspension, helps get COG back down where it belongs.


The diffs you have now are 4.11-1 and about the lowest you can get stock is from a drover, 3.9-1, so, you are upping tyre size from stock, and lowering gear ratios. The 3.9-1 with a G16A shouldn't notice, but bog low running will suffer, power not so much.

I ran stock gears with a set of 33s, she didnt care at all, but im more into speed, up there your more into down low rocks n stuff, higway driving, sweet, no need to change gears with a G16A.

You could go all out, make this a project, G16 (A or B) suspension, bigger stronger 1.3l diffs, gearing, and of course, ARB diff locks, awesome.

[GreaseMonkey]

Did you have a thread on fitting your G16a to your Maruti?
Yes im going all out, but am keeping the build under 7.5k, so that means minispool rear chinasoong front.
Up here its just mud you gotta get through, only a few places with rocks.
Also got a new job with work car for daily so no need for dailying it. But i do travel alot of highway k's to get to my destination (fishing, hunting)
Bought the car in decent nick ($3k), so suspension around 1.5k, diffs with lockers and gearing put in ($2k)

Whats the go with brakes? Vitara upgrade?

[SuziBlu]

yea mate, LWB Vitara brakes, the same dia but vented, I went to 600degree HQ racing so that never get fade.

7.5k will get you a huge build.

why the airlocker up front, mine is rear auto up front, this way, i have total control of when to use.

Mine had a 1.3 in it when I bought it, so the 1.6 was just a dead simple fit, exact same.

You have a 4 speed gearbox, you upgrade the donk, and do a 5 speed as well, If i did mine again, id do a vitara gearbox, closer ratios and a bigger plate, only thing is, you need to do a bit of cutting to fit, where the 1.3 is easy.

When I used to live up there, shooting buff, it was all rocky country, loved it, really hate mud lol

[GreaseMonkey]

Havent heard too many good reviews about auto lockers in general especially up front (turning circle, locking and unlocking randomly)
Airlocker up front so i have total control of when i want to use it.

I will need to source all the 1.3l parts (flywheel, clutch and pressure plate) needed to adapt onto the 1.6
I will just run the 4 speed box but convert it over to a 5 speed.

Depends where you go i guess, i go pig hunting and pigs love mud so im always driving through mud

[SuziBlu]

Make sure you remember, don't run suzi engine mounts, VL commodore. 10 times stronger, I replaced seems like a million suzi ones before finding out about VL.

[GreaseMonkey]

Oh really, same as 1.3?

[SuziBlu]

yea, the OM engine mounts lasted well, the cheap ones you buy now are utter crap, shit of the highest.

Worste I did was one session, installed new mount, went out an feral, came back, mount torn apart.

I have had VL now thru many a session and giant power upgrade, no matter how you try, you will never get the power of a VL, so, its understressed to buggery.

Fits like a glove, 1 tiny nipple to grind off.

[jdk81]

The VL mounts are bigger.
Many have no issues with the stock 1.3 mounts, others have issues and switch to VL, others go straight to VL.
How you drive probably makes a big difference.
Also, if its anything like transfer mounts, the OEM mounts are far superior to aftermarket garbage, which may also affect the results.

If you are looking at engine, gearing, suspension, and diff mods, you will need to reconsider your budget.
As above, if you are twin locking it, you would be wise to switch to WT diffs.

chinasoong locker rd88 $600ish with possibly a lot of dicking around

You will want trail tough chromos US$345 (locking the front without these will be a stupid move).
http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?pag ... &Itemid=53

Mini spool for the rear US$109 (trail tough, do not, I repeat, do NOT buy a mini spool from LROR)
http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?pag ... &Itemid=53

A pair of WT diffs start at $300ish
You would probably need to rebuild the front diff - so new bearings and seals all around etc ($80) when putting the chromos in.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Swivel-Hub-W ... 5d4859dc82

You will now need to reconsider gearing
You already want to mod the gearbox, so consider a gearbox swap?

Transfer gearing starts at US$400+ and will probably need a gear install supplement kit.

Diff gears will change high/low and install with bearings etc will be about $600, gears can be found between $100-$250.

Engine conversion
killa kustom kables (yes I know KKK) does it for $400ish, reports are its fairly hack job.
BenT kit $200 (if using a 1.3 gearbox).
a g16 with efi bits and efi tank, extractors etc etc will cost $$$
There is also heaps of other little bits and pieces required.

Suspension
Your budget is $1500, you can probably save a lot of this, and put it towards gearing.
The stock suspension can be made to work reasonably well
doing a RUF (IIRC trayback rears are not suitable for a RUF)
Some new shocks all round
Lifted springs can make it ride worse.
A bodylift wont affect the ride/handling very much and will allow the engine and other stuff to fit with ease.

Everything you change can make it better but can also makes it worse.
Height, weight, aerodynamics etc


Modifications are a slippery slope
There is a lot of consideration and planning involved to turn a desired build with a budget, into a good outcome (a good build that works).
It's so easy to end up with a shit car, and not even know it.

[GreaseMonkey]

I will probably just start with the basics, getting the engine in and then sorting out the gearing.
I will just convert my standard 4 speed into a 5 speed using 1.3 internals without gearing it lower.
I also already have WT diffs with 4.11 gears, but will change the gears when idecide on a tyre size after guard chop

[MrRocky]

Lwb rears are bolt in ruf ?

[fergy]

hijack
just looked at a maruti ute
with a f10a engine
I take it these are NT
do they all have the glass canopy?

[Gwagensteve]

No, not all maruti's are NT - the late ones are WT with 1.3 sized diffs. If the car has WT type flares it's a WT one.

Yes, they all had the fibreglass cab back on delivery. We had an Indian guy come to a couple of suzuki club meetings meany years ago who swapped the indian market full length soft top onto his - he had a styleside one. Both types were available from new, (styleside and tray back) but the vast majority are tray backs. The cars came into the country as stylesides and were cut into tray backs locally.

Steve.