[Toy Machine]

Hi Guys.
I see this gets asked a lot with most references to 60mm and above. Having recently fitted the 2'' kit, I found it near impossible to knock
out the existing bushes. To play it safe I would either need a mate with a hydraulic press, or have mechanics swap them out when I get
an alignment.
For those of you who have fitted 2" (40-50mm) lift, who has and hasn't replaced the original castor bushes to suit the new setup?
and why?

I have a set and car is going back in a week for an alignment, wondering if I pay them to swap out the bushes at the same time.

[got_bar_work]

U should need to press them out and new ones in. I would just get the aliment shop to do it .

[pete_79]

I have the 40mm dobinsons kit in my Jimny, it measured 50mm higher then standard ride height when first fitted.

No castor correction bushes and no problems so far.

I've done about 40,000km since fitting the lift and it still drives normally.

I've looked at the bushes, but haven't bought any yet.

If I do start to get the Jimny shimmy I'll do the kingpin shims first, then think about changing the bushes if I still have dramas after that.

[Gwagensteve]

I dislike caster correction bushes. They increase roll stiffness, which isn't something a Jimny needs. OK for road use, I guess, but off road a Jimny needs lower front roll stiffness, not higher.

Steve.

[got_bar_work]

Pete for some one with your skill pete just weld the arm bolt holes up and drill aome new ones

[Toy Machine]

getting alignment done in a few days.
Steve ill take your word on that one.
Does anyone here have rubber bushes for their taller front springs?
since putting the new gear in, the front end gets a lot of lose knocking such as rolling up gutter or today off road.
All torque settings are done as per manual and new shocks have their new rubbers at the top.
Not sure if its clunky noise coming through new springs or the change in geometry has moved things a little.

Not sure what to do.

[got_bar_work]

Turn the spings a bit so the end of the wire is like 20mm off the step in the spring seat

[greenzook89]

I ran castor bushes on my Jimny (40mm lift), and I didnt rate it. On my coily with a 40mm lift I haven't changed them, I haven't encountered any wobbles as yet.

[ZookLuke]

Anyone install rear shock brackets with their lift. I've read that it's a must. I can't get a straight answer on what exactly is needed.

[monley]

ZookLuke wrote:

Anyone install rear shock brackets with their lift. I've read that it's a must. I can't get a straight answer on what exactly is needed.

No, they are not a must

[ZookLuke]

Thanks Monley.

[Toy Machine]

I got some from jimnybits, you would have to drill out thread using M12 bit.
then use M12x150 8.8 grade bolts. easy job, supposedly gives rear shocks a bit more travel.
if you can be bothered

[Gwagensteve]

Just to be clear, the shock relocators don't add any shock travel at all. They move the lower mount up, which moves the shock travel relative to the axle. This will permit (lets say) 30-40mm more droop, at the expense of 30-40mm of lost compression.

If, like most aftermarket shocks designed for use with longer springs, the replacement shocks are already longer than the standard shocks, then you need to be very careful to ensure that there is sufficient compression travel left in the shock absorber left when the suspension is fully compressed.

The factory normally allows 25mm or more of compression left in the shock with the axle sitting on the bumpstop. This is to allow for a heavy landing where the bumpstop might compress a lot - 50% or more. If the "lift" shocks fitted are already 15-20mm longer fully compressed (common) and the shock relocators add 30-40mm to the compressed length of the shock/bracket assembly, then it's not hard to see that the potential is there for your shocks will compress before the axle reaches the bumpstop.

At best, this might never raise its head as a problem. At worst it could result in broken shock hardware which will then push the shock through the floor of the car. Quite common with GQ patrols and over length shocks back in the day.

The burden of working this stuff out rests with the owner when you are mixing and matching parts from various kits.

I'm not having a go at you at all Toy Machine, but as this is the noobie section I thought I'd just clarify as there's lots of misconcpetions out there about added travel and "2" shocks" etc.

Steve.

[vet 180]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Just to be clear, the shock relocators don't add any shock travel at all. They move the lower mount up, which moves the shock travel relative to the axle. This will permit (lets say) 30-40mm more droop, at the expense of 30-40mm of lost compression.


Steve.

THIS X100000

So many people misunderstand this

[Toy Machine]

your info is always welcome. got more knowledge than most so it all helps

[Jimny_No_Power]

Hey, I found a pretty good way to remove the old bushes using a hole saw without the center drill which is as close the OD of the rubber part of the Bush, go at it from each side, tap the rubber out, use a hacksaw to carefully cut the outer metal of the Bush (don't go into the arm), then use a point chisel, facing slightly into the bush, as not to damage the machined face of the arm, give it a few hits and the metal outer of the old bush buckles inwards and simply taps out. took me 45 minutes to remove all four on the front.

[sideways]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Just to be clear, the shock relocators don't add any shock travel at all. They move the lower mount up, which moves the shock travel relative to the axle. This will permit (lets say) 30-40mm more droop, at the expense of 30-40mm of lost compression.

If, like most aftermarket shocks designed for use with longer springs, the replacement shocks are already longer than the standard shocks, then you need to be very careful to ensure that there is sufficient compression travel left in the shock absorber left when the suspension is fully compressed.

The factory normally allows 25mm or more of compression left in the shock with the axle sitting on the bumpstop. This is to allow for a heavy landing where the bumpstop might compress a lot - 50% or more. If the "lift" shocks fitted are already 15-20mm longer fully compressed (common) and the shock relocators add 30-40mm to the compressed length of the shock/bracket assembly, then it's not hard to see that the potential is there for your shocks will compress before the axle reaches the bumpstop.

At best, this might never raise its head as a problem. At worst it could result in broken shock hardware which will then push the shock through the floor of the car. Quite common with GQ patrols and over length shocks back in the day.

The burden of working this stuff out rests with the owner when you are mixing and matching parts from various kits.

I'm not having a go at you at all Toy Machine, but as this is the noobie section I thought I'd just clarify as there's lots of misconcpetions out there about added travel and "2" shocks" etc.

Steve.

I'll add that Jimny rears have a ridiculously long compressed length for their travel so unlike most other 4wds, reducing the the distance between the shock mounts isn't necessarily a bad idea. They have 350mm on the bumpstops for 6" of usable travel. Even with a 40mm shock relocator there's enough space for an 8" travel conventional/cheap shock but you'd have to do some measuring/research. For example a 40mm OME shock at 314mm compressed would bottom out before you hit the bumpstops if you had 40mm relocators.

[Gwagensteve]

Quote:

For example a 40mm OME shock at 314mm compressed would bottom out before you hit the bumpstops if you had 40mm relocators.

Thanks for that Sideways.

That bears out my opinion with some actual data.

[Jezza86]

I found relocators nessicary to allow full down travel with 3" of lift. With 2 diagonal wheels unloaded/ airborne you sit on springs not bumpstops so the drooped wheels go down further ( bushes allow the same droop angle). Shocks never bottomed out. Springs would be springbound first under a heavy bump.

[got_bar_work]

If the springs bind u need longer bump stops. The coil should never be allowed to bind. It will stiff the springs and if hard enough landing might rip the coil seat off

[Jezza86]

got_bar_work wrote:

If the springs bind u need longer bump stops. The coil should never be allowed to bind. It will stiff the springs and if hard enough landing might rip the coil seat off

what you should do and what most actually do with a jimny is a massive discrepancy.
im sitting on stock springs with 1" spring spacers, and a 2" body lift. in my eyes that's the ultimate setup for me as its flexy, the wheels tuck well, bumpstops are fully uitilised without coil bind. theres no problem with death wobble and its nowhere near the effort of a 3 or 4 linked front, which would be the only better option.