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Post Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 7:21 pm 
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hey guys,

im finally going to do RUF on my zook but wanted to drill the perch mounting holes further back, as im sure you all are aware NT perches have no room to do so, is there any other way without doing a chassis extension on a NT? i also have 3" shackles so drilling it back 20mm and the ruf would give me a better shackle angle hence why i wanted to do so.

Sam

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 11:43 pm 
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Why would you not want to do the chassis extension. 3" shackles?? is that 3" longer then standard, that will suck.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 7:28 am 
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No one to weld/fabricate it for me legally

And yeah 3" lror shackles, they dont suck as far as im concerned yeah there a bit over kill and i should
Probably take fhem iut but i dont feel like they "suck" in any way

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:28 am 
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With 3" shackles you should just be able to bolt rear springs in the front without any other work.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 10:02 am 
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With just 3" extended shackles (so 145mm eye to eye)
shackles about 20 degrees flatter than stock
Front diff moves forward 39-40mm
Losing about 2 degrees of caster
Need 15mm bumpstop spacing - to help prevent spring inversion and to prevent the tie rod binding on the drag link/pitman arm.

May need to move bump stops and shock towers as the diff being 40mm forwards could cause issues.

It will ride softer, as the spings are longer and softer and the shackle being on such an angle will make it softer.
However, the loss of caster will make it a bit more like a shopping trolley, and the extended shackles will allow more steering wander and response will be worse.
It may be tolerable, or it may feel like a bucket of shit

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 11:13 am 
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yeah gwagen the reason behined me wanting to re drill the perches is so that the diff only moves forward 25mm and still dosent handle terribly

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 11:13 am 
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What about home made ruf relocations mounts??

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 1:05 pm 
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You can redrill the perch on the diffs and pull the diff back.
You would have to pull it back 25mm maybe 20mm, as trying to only get a combined 25mm diff forwards may have the holes over lapping.
40mm (forwards from shackle only RUF) -25mm (from pulling diff back) = 15mm diff forwards over stock

Many have pushed their diffs forward, by drilling perches etc

Make sure you take your time, measure, mark, measure, punch, measure, then drill.
My soft top had the diff pushed forwards 1" by the previous owner or his mech friend, and the holes were not marked carefully at all.
So one side was pushed forwards the 20mm, the other 30mm, and the holes were not centred either.
It handled worse than other sierras with similar mods.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 1:25 pm 
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If i did the RUF along with moving the diff back 15 mm wouldnt that work?
What holes would over lap if i wanted the diff pushed 25mm?

And thats what i may have to do

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 1:47 pm 
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Why will the car handle terribly if themsiffnos forward more than 25mm?

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 2:00 pm 
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I didnt mean it that way i said it wrong just 25mm is kinda what i was after

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 2:26 pm 
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I vote chassis extension with stock shackles, If you don't want the diff moving forward 40-50mm than you could re-drill the perch and spring plate aA JDK suggested.


This MIGHT be an option too

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 2:41 pm 
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^^ That's a lot of stress to be placing on not very much metal...

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 3:40 pm 
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It's not that bad it runs back past the crossmember a bit , the bolts are not really taking any stress just holding it in place in pretty sure.
Still dosnt address the shock mounts and bump stops wich may need to be moved.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 4:14 pm 
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what about making relocation plates for the leaf hanger so it dosent push the diff forward at all then just do a diff push for 25mm?

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 5:53 pm 
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I may have missed it, but why di you care if the diff moves forward ??? It's more or less only a good thing if it's not so far you steering binds.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 6:05 pm 
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i want my diff to move forward but not to far otherwise i woull have to mess around with shock mounts and bump stops which i probably will alter later but i wouldnt like to move it 40mm forward the most i would want is 25mm probably

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 7:40 pm 
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So full RUF and redrill the spring pads and saddles to move the axle back to where you want it.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:20 pm 
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sounds good, and just confirming that will leave me with a good shackle angle?

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:29 pm 
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Well it depends how flat you run your leaves.
Without using my computer, im guessing itll be around 45 degrees.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:37 pm 
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is that good?

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:57 pm 
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bibby wrote:
is that good?


Think about it. The shackle can move equal angles in each direction. You aren't sacrificing compression for droop which means you won't possibly be trading ride comfort ( derived partly from the amount of up travel) to get good droop.(although your overall setup probably will not have much room to compress much anyway with large tires)

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 9:16 pm 
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so are you saying it should be "fine" and i will also just have more droop because the shackle is aleady compressed up a little?

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