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zook2482

newbie
Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:01 pm Posts: 4
Vehicle: Jimny
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 Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 3:56 pm |
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hey guys, i think i have looked everywhere, but cant seem to find full set of instructions on how to do the install and what else i need for it. heaps of info on 50mm but not for 25mm, is it very different? Is there anything else you can tell me before i start? should i do the left or right side first? also should the spacer be touching the chassis or the body? Sorry for noob questions. cheers.
i bought the kit off a guy in brisbane on ebay for $200 f.y.i
Last edited by zook2482 on Wed Aug 12, 2015 5:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Jezza86

Platinum Supporter
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:30 am Posts: 2155 Location: Nhulunbuy 0880
Vehicle: 2010 jimny
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 Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 4:53 pm |
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everyone will tell you body side for the blocks. mark the bottom of your steering wheel with ductape. dont take the duct tape off the roll. use the weight of the roll of duct tape to keep the steering wheel streight
disconnect the metal block from the master cylinder thats bolted onto the chassis pull out your headlights loosten the steering shaft bolts. dont alow the steering wheel to be spun round because replacing ribon cables to airbags sucks loosen the 2 front bolts, and the 6 body mount nuts pick a side, and work on that first (i did left) undo the bolt and 3 nuts on that side. spring compressors can be used to stop the chassis rising while you jack the body up. only jack it as far as you need, with a pice of timer so you dont bend the floor/ boot. the scissor jack fits between the chassis and the body in the back. 2 scissor jacks makes the job easier and are slow to adjust meaning you dont break things chock the body before yu put your hand between it and the chassis.
put the 4 body blocks above the existing body mount rubber. lower the body almost onto the blocks slide your internally threaded female bolt through the lower bodymount rubbers and find the tread on the captive bodymount bolts. replace the long bolt in the front lower fully and tighten to finger tight do other side, be carefull you dont pop your vacume lines. to be safe disconect them from the copper tubing axle end. repeat for the right, but when lowering ensure your steering shaft slides onto the keyway on the steering box, and make sure your steering wheel is on streight. check steering colum has enough meat on the splines of the steering box. tighten bolts tighten everything up. mabie stick your headlights back in. slow drive listen for weird noises
_________________ your daily dose of questionable sanity
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zook2482

newbie
Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:01 pm Posts: 4
Vehicle: Jimny
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 Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 11:57 am |
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hey thanks heaps for the info mate, but is this all necessary for 1 inch lift? seems like your talking about 2 inch? i dont need to put in a steering spacer if that helps. and i dont have airbags. its a 99 jx jimny. i bought the kit off just_cruizin.
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 12:54 pm |
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Yes, thats the procedure regardless of the height of the body lift. Body lifts are quite time consuming to fit - most workshops will charge around $800 to fit one as it takes most of a day, even with a hoist.
Yes, you need to remove the steering shaft and ensure it's reinstalled properly even for a 1" lift, as you need to lift the body higher than 1" to install the body blocks.
Steve.
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just_cruizin

az supporter
Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 2867 Location: here
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 Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 8:56 pm |
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Didn't I include instructions? Pm me your email and ill get them to you. You will want to disconnect the steering to do the lift and adjust the unis on the shaft that take up the small amount of extra length required
_________________ greenzook89 wrote: 31zook wrote: Makes me want something similar
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Jezza86

Platinum Supporter
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:30 am Posts: 2155 Location: Nhulunbuy 0880
Vehicle: 2010 jimny
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 Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 9:01 pm |
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Yeh jacking the body to get th blocjs is hard on the right, untill the rag joint tears lol
_________________ your daily dose of questionable sanity
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zook2482

newbie
Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:01 pm Posts: 4
Vehicle: Jimny
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 Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 9:06 pm |
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all sorted! got it in today with some help from few mates. took about 5 hours, not going hard. went pretty well, few little hiccups. the 2 rear original washes were a basted to get off. it was because they were wearing the thread out around them and made a little groove, which made it extremely hard to get off, had to pry bar them off but i was careful because i didnt want to snap the bolt from the body and do any more damage to the thread. also just had to drill out the blocks a tiny bit to fit the sleeves in. otherwise all went to plan. 235's are much better on the road now, it hasnt scrubbed out on big bumps like it did, only just scrubs a little on the corner of front bumper when steering wheel turns a little. just have to cut a little more on the bumper and should be all sweet. i will put some photos up tomorrow when its all done. thanks for the help, was defiantly worth asking.
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zook2482

newbie
Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:01 pm Posts: 4
Vehicle: Jimny
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 Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 8:57 pm |
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hey guys just another question, instead of making a new thread. (or maybe i should have?) can i get some rear shock relocators now or could i do some damage to the shocks? im just on stock suspension, and obviously now a 1 inch lift.
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Jezza86

Platinum Supporter
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:30 am Posts: 2155 Location: Nhulunbuy 0880
Vehicle: 2010 jimny
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 Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 8:07 am |
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the shock mounts are on the chassis and axle. you have lifted the body. thus you dont have 1" lift anywhere but the body. which is lifted. hence its called a body lift. not a suspension lift.
shock re locators arnt necessary on stock suspension (the bushes flex to stop the shock geting bent). shock relocators (for example jimnybits ones) are 1 1/2" long eye to eye. this is just enough that if you are on bump stops on stock springs the shock can bottom out. i have 1" longer shocks, with 1" shock spacers (polly rings above the springs). this willnot bottom out and provides a tiny bit more travel then the stock shocks.
_________________ your daily dose of questionable sanity
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