[2000 gv]

Are there any auto lockers available for the front of the grand vitaras? Or do you have to change to vitara diffs to fit one of them aswell? Cheers

[toopy]

a 1520lr will fit the air centre, if you can find one.

it would be better to do the solid upgrade though and use a standard 1510, you will however need
1. the cv's from the 2ltr gv or
2. cut approx 1/2" off the passenger side halfshaft and lathe or die grind the same out of the gear side splines on the drivers side, side gear so the stock cv's fit

[Scrawny]

I doubt you'll keep a locked centre inside an alloy third member, it'll want to climb out

[2000 gv]

On ebay it says that the 2.0l gvs run the same cvs as the 2.5?

[2000 gv]

Scrawn wrote:

I doubt you'll keep a locked centre inside an alloy third member, it'll want to climb out

My cars a manual so I already have a steel housing

[Gwagensteve]

I could be off track here, but I reckon an auto locker won't get on at all with the axle disconnect system on the GV - I think it will either turn everything all the time (as though the axle wasn't disconnected) or if there is sufficient drag in the pinion/driveshaft it will try and remain unlocked and therefore wear very quickly.

I would have thought you'd need to delete the axle disconnect and run manual hubs.

Could be wrong though - I'm just thinking through the way an auto locker works.

[2000 gv]

Yeah im going to be putting manual hubs on because of that issue. Lockright doesnt list an auto locker for the front of the gvs so im not sure if you can get one

[toopy]

I run a 1520 in the front of my V6 man for around 6 months,

I did forget to add that I welded the clutch closed and run manual hubs. It worked as it should.
I did this because when I went to do the solid UG I run into the cv length issue. Passenger side H/S too long, D/S cv too short and at the time didn't feel like cutting and grinding, also had the 1520 spare as it (despite being listed as) is incorrect for the rear of the GV. It would probably work in the rear but doesn't cover the full side gear like the 1510 does.
Eventually I sourced the correct length cv's and completed the UG.
Looking back I'd probably just do the cutting, grinding and lathing on the CV's, H/S and side gear

[2000 gv]

toopy wrote:

I run a 1520 in the front of my V6 man for around 6 months,

I did forget to add that I welded the clutch closed and run manual hubs. It worked as it should.
I did this because when I went to do the solid UG I run into the cv length issue. Passenger side H/S too long, D/S cv too short and at the time didn't feel like cutting and grinding, also had the 1520 spare as it (despite being listed as) is incorrect for the rear of the GV. It would probably work in the rear but doesn't cover the full side gear like the 1510 does.
Eventually I sourced the correct length cv's and completed the UG.
Looking back I'd probably just do the cutting, grinding and lathing on the CV's, H/S and side gear

So if I can find a 1520 then it will fit the stock diff no problems? And will I still need to source different cvs or is that just with the 1510?

[ninjamoses]

Easiest solution for the front diff:
http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?pag ... &Itemid=53

Combine that, your existing steel housing and whatever R&P ratio you want and away you go.
You can then turf all your vacuum operated crap and run manual hubs.

[2000 gv]

Wow that looks really good! I never knew anyone sold something like that

[ninjamoses]

Should have mentioned, you will need to address the drivers side CV still when using the above set up (or pretty much any/every setup involving a locker).

Your options are:
1) Get a new groove machined into the side gear which will locate a standard GV drivers side CV (which are approximately 6mm shorter than a SV/Vit 26 spline one.
2) Find a 26 spline SV/Vitara drivers side CV and use that instead
3) Do the stubby mod.

26 spline SV/Vitara CVs are getting hard to find, so I'd personally be leaning towards options 1 or 3.

[2000 gv]

Which way do you think would be easier?

[2000 gv]

And by machining would I just need to machine a groove in so that the clip on the end of the cv can clip in?

[ninjamoses]

Correct. It'll already have one groove their to suit SV/Vitara CVs. You will just need to add another one that will suit the shorter GV shafts.
Definitely worth doing, as you can just use brand new replacement GV shafts then if you ever bust one without having to faff around looking for old 2nd hand SV/Vit shafts.

The stubby mod is probably the best of the lot, but its also the most amount of work.

[toopy]

Am I the only one who ran into the P/S half shaft being too long and fouling on the cross pin by approx 6mm and not seating home?