[suzukikid]

I tried searching but didn't bring up what I was after...

Who has pictures of a game made jobby? Is it as easy as getting box section bolting it to existing mounts and welding bolts to the new location?

That would then put your shock out the thickness of the steel box section... Does that matter?

Also what is the prime angle you want?

Cheers

[J--A--C--K]

I think the box had a section cut out the bottom and the shock is mounted inside keeping it in the same line as original .
That's not explained very well sorry

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... -rusm.html
The pictures of this should be enough to make something off

[mnemonix]

Offset isn't a huge matter if you keep it within reason as your diffs may be prone to rotation/rear steer when flexing so angles in the shock occur anyway.

The angle you want to mount the shock at depends on it's collapsed length. you want to flex the car until it sits on the bump stop and measure an appropriate mount point that will not see the shock over compress.

Shock absorber mounting is always a "measure it then mount it" scenario for the most appropriate application.
Correct length can vary car to car based on spring rate, length and condition, static vehicle weight, shock length and valving.

[suzukikid]

Cheers guys for the quick replys!

Looks easy enough to make my self just buy some box section cap the ends and grind out where the shock will sit then bolt through... Ill probably plate either side of the check out?

[AckerDackerly]

The mounting system shown in the link to Offrroad.com is a much fancier version of what I got way back in 2000.

Basically mine is a steel channel the width of a shock mount with holes spaced along it as pictured. There are a set of holes that fit over the original shock mount bolts. There is a standoff the width of the shock mount bolt heads welded to the mounting holes, so you have to attach the shocks to the new mounting system first, then attach the mounting system with the hanging shocks to the original shock mounts.

It was a giant pain to install as you are working overhead in a tight space with a bulky assembly...

You could probably fabricate a custom channel out of two angles cut to fit then welded together if you cannot get a channel that is the proper width for your shock mounts.

It seems I have no problem remembering the really difficult installation of aftermarket components...

I hope that this helps!

[alien]

Mine:

[suzukikid]

Cheers everyone!

Alien that looks the goods! Ill make mine bolt to te stock mounts though in case I need to get a roady in the future....

[Gwagensteve]

What are you trying to achieve? If you're running any sort of rear bumpstop spacing there's no problem fitting long enough shocks on the stock mounts to match any amount of travel a stock rear leaf can provide.

In fact, there's disadvantages in having shocks with way more travel than the leaves allow.

Obviously, the more you lay the shocks over the less effective they are too.

I try and run my shocks as vertical as practical.

Steve.

[suzukikid]

I have always heard of people in boarding shocks and just thought it must of had its advantages....

Thought I would do it while the body is off....

My set up has worked for me for this many years so I guess I don't really need to change it

[Gwagensteve]

There might be good reason to build new/different shock mounts, but just dragging the shocks in at the top doesn't necessarily help anything, especially if the shocks aren't limiting spring travel.

People do lots of things to their cars for no good reason.

Steve.

[suzukikid]

Hmmmm true! I guess why fix what isn't broken... Haha

[MrRocky]

Stock mounts are fine for off the shelf springs

[JrZook]

Gwagensteve wrote:

There might be good reason to build new/different shock mounts, but just dragging the shocks in at the top doesn't necessarily help anything, especially if the shocks aren't limiting spring travel.

Ill be doing it to effectively reduce the compression dampening of my shocks to further improve the ride quality.

[jdk81]

I did it by moving the bolts.

I think b4t made a bolt on one from rhs years ago.
Might be pics here or on outers

[suzukikid]

I am running ome shocks in the rear of mine that are plenty long enough to inboard.... Ill get onto b4t and see what he did! If there is an easy way ill do if not I won't worry....

After thinking about it you could just use a bit of angle and bolts couldn't you?

[Gwagensteve]

I don't really understand what you mean there. Inboarding shocks means that less shaft travel is used for a given amount of axle travel.

Let's say your shocks are laid over at 45˚. They now have a 1.4:1 ratio compared to a vertical shock, so for 10" of wheel travel you only need a 6" travel shock.

However, that means the valving is now 40% less effective.

It seems that many people buy long, softly valved foam cell shocks, then inboard them in order to fit them in, and end up with a car that might as well have no shocks at all.

Remember too that the more aggressively you inboard the shocks, the less they do on articulation. This is due to the relationship between roll centre and shock position. I have seen a car with radically inboarded rear shocks and a large amount of articulation where the drooped side shock starts to COMPRESS as it nears the limits of flex due to the funky geometry going on.

The point is, if you need to run bumpstop spacing to clear your desired tyre size there is no need to inboard the shocks.
If you run a body lift there is no need to inboard the shocks.
If you run Sierra based springs, there is no need to inboard the shocks.
If you want to look maximum hektik though, it's absolutely vital to inboard your shocks. Flatbill wearing hilux drivers don't have any respect for cars without inboarded shocks. They can't read and write though, so they call inboarded shocks "inverted"

Also consider the effect of increased leverage on the stock shock mount pin if you are bolting a new mount to the existing pins. Repairing the floor and crossmember if a rear shock mount fails is a pain with the body on. Ask me how I know this.

And now to the great unspoken disadvantages of having shocks that are much longer than the springs when fully extended. A couple of bad things start to happen. One is that shackle inversion becomes a problem, (although WT chassis have anti-inversion plates welded to them, these are sometimes cut off because they're anti hektik.

The other is that the springs can fan right open. This is cool for hektik points, but it's bad for spring life because now, as the car hops around under power, only the main leaf is locating the axle. This is often also a problem with RUF front, but theres more traction being delivered through the rear axle, so there is more torsional force being seen by the springs.

Anyways, like any modification, it's a trade of of function vs reduced reliability/performance under some conditions vs hektik points.

Steve.

[suzukikid]

Yeah righto maybe ill just leave it stock! Works well how it is....

But then again if Hilux drivers will think I'm uncool I might have to do it....

[SierraDan]

Hektikk

[Gwagensteve]

Lol. That's next level.

[alien]

So, they're there for display purposes?

[suzukikid]

Jesus what's going on there!!!!

[Gwagensteve]

That's pretty normal hektik hilux right there.

From the second generation of hilux on, Toyota placed the shocks fore and aft of the axle housing. This was very deliberate - it was done so the shocks counter axle wrap, which is very prevalent on SPOA suspension.

In the search for droop, it's normal practice to turn the shocks through 90˚ to run them like they are on styleside sierras (and 1st gen hiluxes) and position them to allow maximum droop.

Note with interest the lift blocks (which make axle wrap worse) and no bumpstops so the car can't settle onto an obstacle. All pretty common hilux modifications to add teh hektik. Yeeeeeeew!

[SierraDan]

Haha, yeah it was a wild setup. Everything was Snake Racing branded too.

[shep]

Best thing I did to my sierras was move the top shock mount. If you make a series of mounts working towards the Middle of the car you can tune the dampening
of the shock. Means you can run a shock from a full sized heavy car but get it onto a angle where it has a suitable amount of dampening for your car.

[Gwagensteve]

Or you could buy a shock with soft enough valving?

[shep]

Which are widely available through repco to match a lifted sierra? Or you could just get 50mm raised hilux shocks that are everywhere and never worry about parts availability.

[Gwagensteve]

How often do you need to buy new shocks? Quality shocks will outlast the car in a Sierra application, so it's worth making the mounts to suit a correctly valved shock of the right length for the application than laying shocks over to hope something off the shelf will valve OK.

Steve.