[mmiller6512]

Hello All
Just done a disk conversion on my nt . Now I want to fit a booster and I need to know if later booster/master cylinder will work
Cheers,

[Gwagensteve]

Depends on the model. If you have a type 3 1.0 (plastic dashboard ) you can drill a couple of holes and bolt in a 1.3 booster. If it's. Steel dash model the clearance between the steering column and master cylinder is inadequate. The normal fix is to weld in that section of 1.3 firewall.
Steve.

[mnemonix]

Gwagensteve wrote:

If you have a type 3 1.0 (plastic dashboard ) you can drill a couple of holes and burr out the centre hole to the required diameter and bolt in a 1.3 booster.

[mmiller6512]

1982 Steel dash
Could I make a remote servo work or use something from another car of some sort
Thanks,

[Gwagensteve]

There's always the possibility of a remote servo or spacing the booster a long way forward if there is enough room around the inlet manifold.

However, there isn't any real need for a booster. With a correctly sized master cylinder you'll have no problem getting a good pedal. My own car runs ventilated vitara front rotors and callipers on the front with sierra front rotors and callipers on the rear. I use a 1 1/16" GT forester M/C with no booster, which is too big (pedal effort is too high with a short pedal travel) but I'm also stopping a very heavy sierra on 35's with an auto. With a 7/8's or so M/C my brakes would be awesome.

Remember a booster does nothing to improve brake performance. It only lowers pedal effort. Swapping to disc rear won't have any effect on pedal effort but you will need less line pressure to the rear brakes. The increased volume of disk pistons normally means (with no other changes) the rear brakes will apply excessively and the pedal will be low/spongey unless a disk/disk M/C is used. Expect you will still need a proportioning valve. Sierras are light and short and need very little rear brakes. Without a prop valve the rear will normally be very twitchy under brakes and rear pad life will be very short.

I will run a booster in my next car, but only because the firewall is built to take one if it wasn't, I wouldn't hesitate to run unboosted, I'd just run a slightly smaller M/C to lower pedal effort. (my next car will likely be much much lighter and run lighter tyres too) Personally, I like the feel and consistency of unboosted brakes. Pedal feel is identical under all circumstances.

Remember that very few race cars use boosters.