[kingkom]

Hey everyone.
I'm ready to fit my 32s, 5.7 diff gears and locker and I'm pretty sure I'll need new rims or spacers to make the tyres fit.

Can anyone confirm the stock GV offset? Mine is a 2003 with 5 spoke alloys. 16x7 +25? or 16x7 +4? I've also seen somewhere saying +40? And other places saying the wheels are 16x6.5. Can anyone confirm what it actually is?

Centre bore? I thought they were 108mm but my calliper reads 109mm and I've found a post claiming they are 104mm. Again can anyone conform?

This brings me to my next question. Do the rims need to be hub centric? If I'm forking out for new rims I'd prefer that they were. However I've seen posts again saying that GV stock rims aren't hub centric, however mine sit on the hubs pretty tight so I thought they were?

Does anyone know where to get rims? I'm looking for 16x8 preferably something simple cheap and steel like sunnies? Cannot find anything in 5 x 139.7. I'm also assuming that if the stock offset is +25 then I'd need a 0 offset rim to move out a bit but not protrude beyond the guards. I did find a few on 4wheelparts.com which is USA. They have some really excellent looking off road rims but don't want to spend over a grand including shipping.

Finally if I opt for bolt on spacers (25mm) then do they need to be hub centric? I've found plenty of lug centric ones on eBay for about $80. Are they safe? I've never used spacers before. If the spacers need to be hub centric then it probably isn't worth it as the only ones with the lip on the outside are 4xfourart ones which are like 175EUR plus shipping aka almost as much as a new set of sunnies at $110 a piece.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can clarify.

[Gwagensteve]

Suzuki's are not hub centric, they are lug centric.

Avoid spacers

Avoid 8" rims

Avoid substantial changes in offset.

Big changes in offset will mean the rear tyres won't tuck into the guards any more. This will create masses of clearance problems. Adding offset/track width will screw with the front end in all sorts of ways.

What size tyre are you planning?

[pete_79]

kingkom wrote:

Hey everyone.
I'm ready to fit my 32s.

[Gwagensteve]

32xwhat?

32x9
32x11.5
235 85 16
265 75 16
7.50 16

And probably a bunch of other sizes I can't think of now are all 32" tall but will require very different strategies to fit them.

[pete_79]

Good point. My bad.

Haven't found any 32x9 in my recent searching though.
Guessing they don't come that size in 15 inch.

[Gwagensteve]

There's only a couple of sources for 32x9 15- centipedes and swampers I think.

[J--A--C--K]

235 85 16's for the win.
Not that I actually have them or have used them, but they are on the wish list.

[Gwagensteve]

And they go on a stock GV rim and don't require spacers etc.

[kingkom]

My bad. They are 265/75/16. I picked up a cheap second hand set from gumtree. They will do the job to make sure I am happy with the fitment. I chose this size because it is the most commonly available across brands. 235/85/16 is less common.

So would you guys just recommend using stock rims? What's wrong with 16x8? I know plenty of people use them without issues. Also wouldn't increasing track improve stability? Again I know there are plenty of guys running 16x8 rims on Suzukis.

And no 15 inch rims will not fit over the front brakes.

[henno]

265/75 are a bit of an awkward size for a GV.

You'll also find that almost all aftermarket 16" rims will also not fit over the brakes.

Also, big offset on a GV is awkward. And they are already plenty wide enough for their size if you ask me; increasing track is not worth the headaches for minimal gain in that vehicle.

[kingkom]

OK. Well in that case since my tyres are rated to be used on a 7 inch wide wheel would you just suggest I stick with the stock rims? I have the 4xfourart 3 inch extreme suspension lift which moves my front and rear axles out by about 20mm with extended rear trailing arms and control arms. I know I will have to trim the rear bumper. I'll be doing that next week. But I have an Xrox bar up front so I don't see any clearance issues happening there except at full lock So maybe I would just use a 5-10mm slide on spacer if need be? And maybe once these tyres go I'll change to a 235/85/16 again if need be.

[ninjamoses]

I'd stick with the stock rims and forget about spacers for the time being mate till you are happy with it. You will need to fairly go to town on the rear bumper to run that size plus the extended arms, interested to see what you come up with.

I had 235/85/16s (which are the same OD) on my old one briefly with the calmini + 2" body lift and it was scrub city even after a whole lot of hammering/chopping. Was a PITA to try and retain mud flaps with the amount of chop chop needed, if I was to do it again I'd probably look at a custom rear bumper.

Aftermarket rims are almost non existent for GVs due to how much the caliper protrudes out from the wheel mounting surface. Its also a measurement which is almost impossible to find for aftermarket rims, I had no luck getting it even after contacting many different manufacturers even. Out of all my research I was only able to find probably 2 to 3 different rims in total which may work. In the end I took a chance on the Dick Cepek DC2s and thankfully they worked out great.

Regarding the width, I wouldn't be too concerned about 8" rims personally. I'm running 245s on mine which I'm sure is frowned upon (and obviously in an ideal world I'd have them on 6 - 7" rims) but in practice I've had zero issues even at fairly low pressures. Probably largely comes down to how/what you drive also.

[ZUZUKI]

You'll get plenty of buffing of the chassis at the rear of the front tyres - a problem if the tyres have aggressive lugs - CV's don't like that.
225/75R16 just kiss & with the rack, there is no lock stop adjustment.
The 265/75R16 will probably try to pick up the fabricated front cross member seam as well, but that can be ground down / re-welded to reduce it's sticky outedness.
I've tried to play with wheel options - really, really difficult, as mentioned above, the dish of the centre is massive to clear the caliper (due to the very small step in the disc, between wheel mounting face & friction surface).
I cut the centre out of a std steel rim & even that is difficult to find a hoop to re-weld onto it with any meaningful or useful change in offset / rim width, due to the centre being welded to the bead flange & not the 'well' where most hoops & centres meet.
My plan is to run 245/75R16 A/T for road (on the std rims) & 215/85R16 M/T off road - ideally on a reduced rim width of 6.0 or 6.5" with the outside bead of the rim about 10mm further out, to give more chassis clearance - still working on that rim project!
Good luck, Rgs, Michael

[got_bar_work]

How r people running bigger then stock tires on stock gv rims. My stock tires on stock rims rub on my coil tower in the rear . Im going to need a bit of offset to clear 255/85/16 i want to run.

[kingkom]

Hey mate. Not sure about the reason on that but my car is currently getting the diffs overhauled and the 5.72 gears fitted along with the 265/75R16 (32 inch) Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ. Prior to fitting I bought an extra GV steelie and had one tyre mounted on it to test fit. I had to clearance the rear bumper by about an inch or so from the body line down (build thread with pics coming). Then I ran the wheel up a ramp and jacked the opposite side front till it hung a wheel (max flex) and it JUST touches the mud flap at this angle - not a huge concern as only going very slow with suspension maxed out and it will only be reaching this during the most extreme hill climbs - I.e. Rarely ever happen - and I will eventually be swapping to a steel rear bar with more clearance anyway so that will take care of that. Otherwise there is about a finger of clearance with the chassis rail and a bit more with the inside of the guard (could probably fit a 5-10mm spacer if I really wanted to) and plenty away from the coil tower. The front has miles of clearance everywhere except a small scrub on the chassis rail at full lock (again I avoid full lock off road as CVs don't like it and only use it around town when doing a tight turn or u-turn - so not really an issue - especially when you consider how much steering lock the GV has - probably too much if there is such a thing). This is all with stock GV alloys. I may chuck on a 5-10mm spacer at some stage and in the long run will probably go to a 235/85R16 AT tyre as well - all of which will help with any minor scrubbing. With regards to the lack of steering lock out I think fitting one of these at the front would help

as by moving the rear mount outwards you move the tyre out and forwards which both moves it away from the chassis rail and hopefully also allows you to shorten the adjustment on the tie rods thus reducing the full steering lock angle slightly. It may just be enough and if not well you're only ever going really slow at full lock for a few metres at most and usually in 2WD so she'll be right.

I know this is a bit of a round about way of fixing it but I am not aware of any kit or any easy way of modifying the stock steering to enable lock out once it reaches a certain angle.

Also, do you have a lift kit fitted? If so which one? Mine is the extreme version of the 4xfourart 3 inch lift which has front control arms that widen the track and move the front wheel forwards by about an inch and at the rear extended trailing arms which move the whole rear axle back about an inch - this is what made the difference between being able to fit beefy tyres and not.