[swifty_ano]

Hey all.

Attempting to change the clutch in my grand vitara. All was going well until i had to remove the "y" peice of my exhaust. All the nuts are seized on and my rattle gun has stipped them.
Any idea how to get them off?? They are in a tight spot

[ninjamoses]

I feel your pain, on my original green GV they were so positively seized/rooted I ended up cutting the Y pipe in half and removed each side seperately with it still bolted to the extractors.

From the photo it still looks salvageable. Irwin bolt grips and the rattlegun should have it off in a jiffy.

[AckerDackerly]

I tried the 'Merican Metric version of those on a VW engine and they basically suck. Perhaps Craftsman's version of this tool isn't as good as Irwin's. I hope so...

That said, perhaps a 4-inch (100mm) hand grinder with a grinding wheel can cut the heads off the nuts. Wear goggles and a paper breathing mask! That way, you only need to replace the bolts and nuts.

I hope that this helps!

[swifty_ano]

ninjamoses wrote:

I feel your pain, on my original green GV they were so positively seized/rooted I ended up cutting the Y pipe in half and removed each side seperately with it still bolted to the extractors.

From the photo it still looks salvageable. Irwin bolt grips and the rattlegun should have it off in a jiffy.

I was thinking about these. Might give them a whirl. Last thing I wanna do is remove the manifold.
I've tried getting a 4" grinder in there but its slightly too big

[AckerDackerly]

Update:

I recall using that type of nut remover on a hex-head (Allen wrench) bolt...

I bet they work MUCH better on a regular nut - buggered or not!

My bad...

[ninjamoses]

I was skeptical as well before I bought them, but they seriously work wonders.

Managed to get a rounded head bolt off on a 3ltr diesel BT50 when I thought I was done for. It bit so hard into the bolt I haven't been able to separate it to this day (its sitting on the shelf in the garage as a reminder to use the proper tools for the job in the first place - 12 sided normal sockets are not the go for tight super bolts ).

[swifty_ano]

No luck guys. 1/2 inpact wrench won't even budge them.
Looks like I'll just cut the y peice and buy extractors.
What an exspensive clutch this is turning out to be

[got_bar_work]

Have u soked them with penertrating spray. Like rust off. Or even diesel.
Try heating the nuts up with a blow torch

[swifty_ano]

Yep. They been soaked for 10 hours.
I'll try my gas torch tomorrow. If not, ill have to cutty cut

[alien]

Maybe the old sierra door screw hammer and chisel trick to get it turning?

[jchomley]

Dremel tool with cutting disk, cut into nut on vertical plane as best you can and then split nut with a chisel
And the nut should come off. go easy with the Dremal as you don't want to rip up the male threads.

Cheers,

Jack.

[swifty_ano]

I tried my cold chisel but it was too short. But i think if my 1/2 inch impact cant get them to budge, nothing will.

A dremel would be perfect but I don't own one. i want to buy one but I just spent $70 today attempting to get them undone. Doubt the missus will allow it haha

[ninjamoses]

Borrow a bigger rattle gun off someone? If its gripping with those sockets you are halfway to solving the problem at least. Bigger rattle gun will either undo it or snap the bolt, both good outcomes.

[1DYX]

So it it stripped or siezed?

if its stripped, it will have to be split off, but if its siezed, then it needs to be freed. 2 different problems.

Electric or air rattle gun? If it is a air gun, do you have a big enough compressor?

Rattle guns need a lot of air to work efficiently.
Those little handyman air compressors wont do it.

Heat the nut, then spray crc on it as it cools. Do this twice. Then try. if you are using an socket extension, make sure its a nice thick one. Thin ones have too much spring and reduces the hammer effect supplied by the gun. Best result is no extension, but that may not be possible.

[swifty_ano]

Im using my cordless gun. Its got 600nm of torque. I figured that would have been enough.
Theres on but thats totally stripped. Might see if i can find a stronger rattle gun

[tahoa]

the work that my business does often involves nuts, bolts , screws that are painted, rusted, burred or buggered.. It can be frustrating. Sometimes it can work to think in reverse.... you are trying to remove something which had its last action as being put in. If a rattle / impact driver will not work in reverse, sometimes trying to loosen by slightly tightening the object can break the seal enough for a penetrating fluid to be absorbed around the thread..... a little bit of patience......

[tonyevans]

This is what I used - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Nut-Spli ... SwoydWpLUS

[Qthefun]

tahoa wrote:

the work that my business does often involves nuts, bolts , screws that are painted, rusted, burred or buggered.. It can be frustrating. Sometimes it can work to think in reverse.... you are trying to remove something which had its last action as being put in. If a rattle / impact driver will not work in reverse, sometimes trying to loosen by slightly tightening the object can break the seal enough for a penetrating fluid to be absorbed around the thread..... a little bit of patience......

yep tight first then try to loosen or,

drill a decent hole and get a set of "easy outs" https://www.masters.com.au/product/9000 ... ID=l9C7L0m

or drill a hole and use a xmas tree bit: https://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl ... MwghKAUwBQ

imo easier than a disc and safer in tight spots