[Qthefun]

Have fitted an OBD11 dongle and used it on the weekend on the beach (hot day mid 30's), coolant got to 103C.
Q: what is the max safe temp?

car gauge was half as per "normal"

Cheers in advance

[Marck]

My NGV shows about the same in sand. About 87 on suburban streets and around 94 at around 100

[vet 180]

Qthefun wrote:

Have fitted an OBD11 dongle and used it on the weekend on the beach (hot day mid 30's), coolant got to 103C.
Q: what is the max safe temp?

car gauge was half as per "normal"

Cheers in advance

Crap I would hate to know what mine gets to. Ignorance is bliss?

[atari4x4]

vet 180 wrote:

Qthefun wrote:

Have fitted an OBD11 dongle and used it on the weekend on the beach (hot day mid 30's), coolant got to 103C.
Q: what is the max safe temp?

car gauge was half as per "normal"

Cheers in advance

Crap I would hate to know what mine gets to. Ignorance is bliss?

*insert jimny auto debate here.

[Qthefun]

Boiling is around 120, so I set my warning to 110 and pray!

[vet 180]

atari4x4 wrote:

vet 180 wrote:

Qthefun wrote:

Have fitted an OBD11 dongle and used it on the weekend on the beach (hot day mid 30's), coolant got to 103C.
Q: what is the max safe temp?

car gauge was half as per "normal"

Cheers in advance

Crap I would hate to know what mine gets to. Ignorance is bliss?

*insert jimny auto debate here.

[mazdaspater]

Boiling should be around 100 plus the PSI rating of the Radiator cap. Approx.

My work Hilux I was driving the other day (35 Degree Day) the gauge was sitting at normal, the engine light came on, I checked it with the OBD, coolant temp was reading 140 C.
Cap had failed, no water or pressure in radiator.
Serviced a month ago. Topped up rad 2 weeks earlier.

After letting it cool for an hour or so I put maybe 5 litres of water in it.
Centre of rad cap had fallen out and lives in rad now.
Looking at it the gauge sensor is very high in motor and if water is low only reads steam temp.

Its worth carrying an extra cap.

Hilux sits 91-94 deg on OBD once warmed up. 94 on Hwy. 91 at idle. Regardless of outside temp.

[Jezza86]

anything over 110 is pretty high. if one of the generators hits 110, and we dont have any more to put on to reduce load on the hot machine, we loadshed things in 1MW intervals to take the machine off and let it cool before we can fault find it.

[Qthefun]

@ mazdaspater: wow 140 is a worry! might want to find that centre of the cap and remove it from the rad. Might grab a spare for mine

@Jezza: Yep 103 had me worried but let it cool down and ran the heater onto the windscreen for the rest of the trip how many gens do you run?

[vet 180]

Qthefun wrote:

Boiling is around 120, so I set my warning to 110 and pray!

110 is good for the warning light. 110 is high, but not that much of a worry. Things so south pretty fast though.

[Jezza86]

24 Cummins 1.1 MW 415 alternators and a pair of Cat 1.8 MW 6.6KV alternators

[Qthefun]

Jezza86 wrote:

24 Cummins 1.1 MW 415 alternators and a pair of Cat 1.8 MW 6.6KV alternators

Jezza... when the zombie's come (and they will) I am bringing as many kegs and gas to where you are along with a towable walk in fridge and a few boxes of ammo and guns to match

[Qthefun]

vet 180 wrote:

Qthefun wrote:

Boiling is around 120, so I set my warning to 110 and pray!

110 is good for the warning light. 110 is high, but not that much of a worry. Things so south pretty fast though.

The kiwi obd2 I have is daisy chainable, will get a pyro (exhaust) temp gauge and add it in, I have read up on it and your exhaust temp will go up first before other gauges go up in a bad situation!!!

If anyone can go into this further please do!!

[Gwagensteve]

High exhaust temperatures are a symptom of a lean condition. It has little to do with coolant temperature. Yes, exhaust temperature will show high before oil temp or coolant temp in the event of a lean out, but that's not the same as overheating due to inadequate cooling capacity. There's a relatively wide range of permissible exhaust temperatures and a relatively small range of permissible coolant temps.

If you can get wideband O2 from your OBD2 reader then that is a far better measure of A/F than exhaust temp. Exhaust temp used to be common in petrol cars before the wide availability of wideband O2 sensors.

Most factory computers will do the opposite if they see a fault condition - run the engine rich and retarded to cool it down and prevent damage.

[Qthefun]

Gwagensteve wrote:

High exhaust temperatures are a symptom of a lean condition. It has little to do with coolant temperature. Yes, exhaust temperature will show high before oil temp or coolant temp in the event of a lean out, but that's not the same as overheating due to inadequate cooling capacity. There's a relatively wide range of permissible exhaust temperatures and a relatively small range of permissible coolant temps.

If you can get wideband O2 from your OBD2 reader then that is a far better measure of A/F than exhaust temp. Exhaust temp used to be common in petrol cars before the wide availability of wideband O2 sensors.

Most factory computers will do the opposite if they see a fault condition - run the engine rich and retarded to cool it down and prevent damage.

ok so for the noobs (like me) A/F is? wide band O2 is?

Cheers for advice as always

[Gwagensteve]

A/F - air/fuel (ratio)

wide band O2 (oxygen) is the sensor your car has in its exhaust that the computer uses to determine the peak efficiency for cruising. At under about 80% throttle the ecu will look at the O2 sensor to check how lean/rich the car is and adjust fuelling to meet a predetermined target.

Normally under full throttle the manufacturer tunes the car fat (rich/cool) in order to protect the motor. This is a set air/fuel map and doesn't reference the sensor.

If the ECU detects a fault, it will retard the timing and run the car rich to prevent damage and put the check engine light on.

Monitoring A/F will allow you to keep an eye on what the computer thinks is appropriate.

However, like any measurement, it's only important if you understand what it means, or care - a good example of which is oil pressure - the most pointless gauge ever for a internally standard motor in a road car - your odometer is about as good a measure of engine wear as an oil pressure gauge, and in a standard motor, exhaust temp or oil pressure are pretty meaningless - the engine is operating within its normal parameters. It will throw a code or get hot on the standard gauge if there is something you need to worry about.

Steve.

[vet 180]

Gwagensteve wrote:

A/F - air/fuel (ratio)

wide band O2 (oxygen) is the sensor your car has in its exhaust that the computer uses to determine the peak efficiency for cruising. At under about 80% throttle the ecu will look at the O2 sensor to check how lean/rich the car is and adjust fuelling to meet a predetermined target.

Normally under full throttle the manufacturer tunes the car fat (rich/cool) in order to protect the motor. This is a set air/fuel map and doesn't reference the sensor.

If the ECU detects a fault, it will retard the timing and run the car rich to prevent damage and put the check engine light on.

Monitoring A/F will allow you to keep an eye on what the computer thinks is appropriate.

However, like any measurement, it's only important if you understand what it means, or care - a good example of which is oil pressure - the most pointless gauge ever for a internally standard motor in a road car - your odometer is about as good a measure of engine wear as an oil pressure gauge, and in a standard motor, exhaust temp or oil pressure are pretty meaningless - the engine is operating within its normal parameters. It will throw a code or get hot on the standard gauge if there is something you need to worry about.

Steve.

Does the jimny run a wideband stock? I would have thought it was the more primitive narrow band O2 sensor?

[Gwagensteve]

I bet on wideband. From my understanding the use of increasing and variable amounts of ethanol in fuel more or less demands it.

[Jezza86]

the issue with the jimny is it has a pree and post cat o2 sensors, and damage to one can alter your A/F ratios, resulting in high fuel consumption, or worse, lean out the engine decreasing engine life.

sample stream temperature and quality is very important to O2 sensors.

[fordem]

Unless I'm very much mistaken, the "pre-cat" O2 sensor is the only one that is used to adjust the A/F ratio, the purpose of the "post-cat" O2 sensor is to determine catalytic converter efficiency.

[DC3PTIKON]

The pre cat O2 sensor does the the bulk of the work, but on some vehicles the post cat O2 sensor also has a minor effect on fuel trim.

[Qthefun]

Ok thanks guys Makes me wish that car brands would ask the end user (preferably well informed people) what, why and how to improve the next model!

Do you guys think that brands look at forums?

[Gwagensteve]

Toyota 86, Jeep Wrangler rubicon, ram power wagon, lots of Porsche product- lots of cars are shaped by enthusiast input. 20k cars aren't, they're transport.

The locally outfitted Brazilian Jimnys are interesting, but there's no engineering input to that- it's a snorkel and some bumpers and other bolt ons. The larger tyres offered previously have been discontinued.

If you were willing to pay $30k for a jimny you could have some enthusiast parts on it, but the area we work in is all about taking items beyond their engineering parameters and a look at what jeep rubicon owners end up doing is a good example of that- they buy the locker/d44 equipped car for a premium and then throw the axles away because they aren't strong enough.

[greenzook89]

Qthefun wrote:

Ok thanks guys Makes me wish that car brands would ask the end user (preferably well informed people) what, why and how to improve the next model!

Do you guys think that brands look at forums?

If they asked the wrong people (enthusiast groups on facebook ) and then acted on that input.. then the final models of Sierra would have had a "hectic" g13 turbo with choo choo, SPOA and drop shackles from factory.... oh and no coilys

[vet 180]

greenzook89 wrote:

Qthefun wrote:

Ok thanks guys Makes me wish that car brands would ask the end user (preferably well informed people) what, why and how to improve the next model!

Do you guys think that brands look at forums?

If they asked the wrong people (enthusiast groups on facebook ) and then acted on that input.. then the final models of Sierra would have had a "hectic" g13 turbo with choo choo, SPOA and drop shackles from factory.... oh and no coilys

A lot of American brands have a lot of input from the aftermarket, industry and even end users, and they still turned out crap for years!

[Gwagensteve]

Mostly because the lawyers and engineers get involved, which is exactly how it should be and how you'd want it if you ran a large corporation.

Steve.