[shep]

Do what ever you want to it, just have clean mating surfaces when you put things together and replace worn and broken things correctly.

My 2013 jimny doesn't wobble at any speed and has been such a good car that I am thinking about buying a new one and swapping my good bits over to it.

[Mike57]

Then you have been quite lucky Shep or maybe Suzuki fixed the king pin clearances in the later models. I certainly had to shim mine eventually but no issues since doing that. It was the manual hubs that eventually tipped mine over the edge. I got away with the lift, heavier rims and tyres but the hubs were just too much.

Your car is still looking good.

Mike

[shep]

I have some shims but never fitted them.

[Reubs]

When I first bought a Coily I had massive wobble problems. After some maintenance the problem went away and never returned - even when I ran big heavy innertubed tyres (old 31" swampers or 31" treps).

[fordem]

trevnutz wrote:

As it sits there is hardly a gap on top of the centerbore/hub but like a 1.5mm down the bottom (depending on rotation of the tyre) It's hard to explain but maybe I can put pics up.

I believe I may have found your problem...



Correct me if I'm wrong - the gap to which you refer is a radial gap - between the center bore of the rim and the hub - it appears to be visible at 9:00 & 12:00 in the picture - there is a greater gap at 9:00 than there is at 12:00

If this is correct, your problem is most likely the lug nuts, which in this picture are closed back "acorn" nuts - these nuts were intended for use with the factory alloys and are not suited to the thinner pressed steel wheels you have now - when you torque them down, they are probably seating against the end of the stud and not tightening against the tapered seat in the wheel as they should.

If this, is in fact what is happening, then you need to get it rectified as a matter of urgency, the wheels are not being clamped to the hubs as they should, and there is a real risk of the studs shearing as they are in fact carrying the weight of the vehicle, which they are not designed to do - the studs would normally be in tension and clamp the rim to the hub.

The easiest way out of the situation is to find open lug nuts with a 12M x 1.25 thread.

[shep]

They look like the same lug nuts that came with my Jimny which had steel rims. Have had dynamic rims with the
same nuts for 3 years without issue. Will double check when the sun is up

[trevnutz]

This is exactly it thanks fordem. I knew there was something not right with this hence my whole ocd stuff with this lug hub crap. I have taken it to a few tyre shops but they didn't really worry about. I'll explain this to them and might get some new lug nuts if this is the case. Cheers

[Gwagensteve]

I'm willing to be this isn't the case. I thought all Jimnys, steel or alloy equipped, run acorn nuts.

Steve.

[Gwagensteve]

A quick check of the rigs section revealed every jimny has acorn nuts regardless of rims or age. Most have had steel aftermarket rims fitted.

Surely this "problem" would have surfaced before now- Jimnys have been on sale for almost 18 years

[fordem]

That may be so Steve, but at the end of the day those rims are not seating properly - either the rim isn't seating properly on the hubs when the lug nuts are tightened down, or the lug nuts are becoming tight before they seat against the rim.

[atari4x4]

probably didn't center each nut properly on the taper prior tightening them.

[fordem]

Not required - it's lug-centric - the taper of the seat will force it to self center EVERY time.

If the gap described is one wheel only, it might be a defective rim, if it's more than one wheel then we're back to the scenario above - the rim not seating properly on the hub, or the lug nuts tightening down on something other than the tapered seat.

[atari4x4]

call me OCD, but i'll still make sure each nut is seated.

[trevnutz]

So anyway guy's I took it into the tyre shop today and they recentered all the wheels but they weren't to concerned about the uneven centerbore gap but they did find what may have been the clicking noise I was having. The rear wheels had steel cetercaps on them (dynamic ones to suit the rims) and they found that the stud holes in the wheels were getting worn presumably because the centercaps were pulling them in somehow and putting strain on them so I've taken them off. Wish I just stuck with the stock wheels lol.

[fordem]

trevnutz wrote:

The rear wheels had steel cetercaps on them (dynamic ones to suit the rims) and they found that the stud holes in the wheels were getting worn presumably because the centercaps were pulling them in somehow and putting strain on them so I've taken them off.

Do you believe EVERYTHING you're told? That has to be the biggest crock of crap I have ever heard. The center caps are a cosmetic dress up item - most likely a push fit in the center bore, and incapable of pulling the stud holes in.

If the stud holes are already showing wear on new wheels then I revise my previous comment - it's not the lug nuts - it's the rim not seating properly on the hub and the lug nuts being torqued to try to force it into place.

[fordem]

atari4x4 wrote:

call me OCD, but i'll still make sure each nut is seated.

Seated & centered are two different things - seating all the nuts before tightening I will agree is a good idea - but centering is not required, and as you seat the nuts on a lug centric wheel, they will center because of the taper.

Tightening the first nut before seating at least one other does prevent, or at least make it more difficult for the second one to seat and center.

This brings to mind a question - it is, or used to be, basic mechanical training, to start all the fasteners (whether they are nuts or bolts) before tightening any - is that commonly done in Australia?

What is the possibility that the tire shops are using an impact wrench to install these wheels and using it to tighten the nuts as they install them? Personally I am against the use of an impact wrench to tighten anything.

[vet 180]

Gwagensteve wrote:

I think the noise ended up being a stone in the tyres.

Surely this is a joke?

[Gwagensteve]

I don't know any more. I don't even think there is any problem of any sort.

[trevnutz]

fordem wrote:

trevnutz wrote:

The rear wheels had steel cetercaps on them (dynamic ones to suit the rims) and they found that the stud holes in the wheels were getting worn presumably because the centercaps were pulling them in somehow and putting strain on them so I've taken them off.

Do you believe EVERYTHING you're told? That has to be the biggest crock of crap I have ever heard. The center caps are a cosmetic dress up item - most likely a push fit in the center bore, and incapable of pulling the stud holes in.

If the stud holes are already showing wear on new wheels then I revise my previous comment - it's not the lug nuts - it's the rim not seating properly on the hub and the lug nuts being torqued to try to force it into place.

yeah I don't know it's the biggest stuff around. The 2 front rims are fine that's what I don't understand.

[trevnutz]

fordem wrote:

trevnutz wrote:

The rear wheels had steel cetercaps on them (dynamic ones to suit the rims) and they found that the stud holes in the wheels were getting worn presumably because the centercaps were pulling them in somehow and putting strain on them so I've taken them off.

Do you believe EVERYTHING you're told? That has to be the biggest crock of crap I have ever heard. The center caps are a cosmetic dress up item - most likely a push fit in the center bore, and incapable of pulling the stud holes in.

If the stud holes are already showing wear on new wheels then I revise my previous comment - it's not the lug nuts - it's the rim not seating properly on the hub and the lug nuts being torqued to try to force it into place.

yeah I don't know it's the biggest stuff around. The 2 front rims are fine that's what I don't understand.

[trevnutz]

vet 180 wrote:

Gwagensteve wrote:

I think the noise ended up being a stone in the tyres.

Surely this is a joke?

No joke mate. Wish I just left the rims stock. I don't know either the tyre fitters have either torqued the lug nuts to tight on the rear only or there's some manufacturers fault with the wheels somewhere. I hate gremlins. Either way it's sorted now just have to check up on it in a month or so to make sure it hasn't done the same thing again. I find it hard to believe it's the caps too but it just doesn't make sense that the front wheels are all fine. You'd think it would have did it to all 4 of the rims.

[trevnutz]

Gwagensteve wrote:

I don't know any more. I don't even think there is any problem of any sort.

I think it's a gremlin. I just want to do a 360 backflip.

[trevnutz]

Got some new 2015 alloys and tyres have all been reballanced. Drives like new again no more shimmy.

[Kor3y101]

You do understand why there was shimmy right? Not because of the "gap". It was due to the fact that Jimny's have a seemingly sensitive steering setup and the extra weight of steel wheels played their part in it.