No power to the fuel pump.
A relay is a switch, one relay switches power to the fuel injection system - injectors, ignition coils, sensors, etc., and the other switches power to the fuel pump - if I'm not mistaken the ECU energizes the relay by supplying a ground to one end of the relay coil, the other end of the coil being fed +12v from a fuse.
Ground the meter negative lead to a known good ground and probe both ends of the relay coil with the ignition switched on - the EFI main relay should have +12V on one side and close to 0v on the other (<1V), the fuel pump relay will most likely have +12V on both ends of the coil - crank the engine, whilst probing the fuel pump relay coil, you should see one end remain at 12V, whilst the other drops to near 0V.
If you are hearing the relays energize you should be seeing that 0V (or close to it) that I mentioned, if that's where you're seeing the 4V you mention, I would check & clean the ECU related grounds.
For a diagnostic scan tool you'll need either a TechOne (the dealer tool) or you can contact Rhinoman (
http://www.rhinopower.org) and get one of his adapters and software to run on a laptop - the big question would be did the person who did the conversion include the OBD related wiring - if they did, it might also be possible to use a jumper to get the check engine light to flash the codes (see Rhinoman's webpage for more details).