[MrRocky]

Well the recently acquired jimny project had a few issues as it turns out. The alt had 100% seized and now at least it starts and idles.
Issue is now when i rev it even a small amount it cuts out and dies, if i feather and pump the throttle i can get the revs up but larger single revs cause it to cut out.
Just dropped the tank (hit my head a million times) and the fuel filter is new and pump works fine. Pressure at the rail is as it should be with a fine mist spay when the rail bolt is cracked even slightly.
Cam sensor is also new.
At this point in time im thinking it may be the injectors ???
Seems fuel related and thats the last port of call ???
Thoughts

[Gwagensteve]

Check the map sensor fuffer valve is clean. These can get oil in them which gums the up and causes all sorts of drivability issues.

Other than than it could be a vacuum leak.

[MrRocky]

Will try it out, i have read a bit about it seems odd something so small could render the car undriveable

[Gwagensteve]

It totally can. We had a G16B engined sierra fall over and oil made its way into the MAP fuffer valve (not the MAP itself, just the valve) the car had intermittent drivability problems for ever after that, and was sold with them still present until the new owner worked it out (after changing pretty much everything in the EFI system (lol!)

If oil in he valve slows down the speed the MAP can see manifold pressure changes, you'll get exactly what your describing.

I'm not saying that it's the problem, but it easily could be.

[MrRocky]

Just blew out the valve with air and carby clean
Seemed relatively clean will trial tomorrow arvo

[GraphicX]

mine was doing this, not to the point of stalling, but close to it. i put it down to there being a massive build up of carbon/oil/sludge throughout the intake system. when i swapped to the G16B i cleaned it all & the issue vanished. not sure if this is any help to you though as whoever put your G16B in likely cleaned all the intake, but the oiling up i experience could be related to what steve has said.

[MrRocky]

Suzistore reckon a flogged keyway on the crank match the symptoms described. Iam thinking its a big possability.
Will pull crank pulley off tonight and examine keyway

[GraphicX]

i'm not up with how these things work, but there's no crank sensor so what's the key way do ?

[Gwagensteve]

There is a camshaft position sensor. Flogged keyway- "variable" ignition and cam timing.

[MrRocky]

Ok swapped injectors over - no change
Cleaned out map sensor valve - no change
Keyway looks ok

.

My theory is that perhaps the old oily belt coupled with the seized alternator may have caused the timing belt to slip a cog or 2.
The belt slipped a cog or 4 when i was loosening the crank gear which hasnt happened to me before so i spose it is possible the belt has stretched ?
Would such a thing cause these issues ?

[Gwagensteve]

The belt can't stretch. This is a myth. It would jump every rev if it was stretched.

[MrRocky]

Could it skip a tooth ??

[Buckman]

Would only skip teeth if the tensioner was shagged. Did the timing marks line up before you pulled the belt off?

[MrRocky]

Bloody belt spun on the crank gear when i cracked the bolt.
I normally crack both bolts and then mark everything and remove haha guess ill mark stuff first next time. Never had a belt slip like that though. It was very loose on the exhaust side of the motor

[MrRocky]

Hmmm tensioner looks fine however seems the crank seal was rubbing on the crank gear possibly causing it to be not seated back properely. Here it is next to a new one

[MrRocky]

Have just learned from the previous owner that the crank seal has been replaced numerous times prior and seems to keep failing.
Not sure if its by bad installation or something else.
I will loctight that sucker in and see

[alien]

Brian has a trick for this because it's common on this motor for some reason. Mine's done it too.

I believe he uses gasket sealer around the edge before pressing it in, then let's it sit for a few hours before doing anything so it has a chance to bond.

[MrRocky]

Yeah i normally use locktight.
I think the larger cause is a blocked pcv valve causing pressurisation of the crankcase pushing out the seal.
I will give it all a good clean this arvo, last thing i need is more band aid fixes id rather get to the root problem

[MrRocky]

There is some talk of it here before thread turns to poo
http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=7672

[alien]

Mine was only replaced because it just started to weep and was OEM to the motor i believe. When it was replaced, it walked it's way out about 2 or 3 times while it was there when they started the motor, and eventually they got it to stay put. PCV etc were all checked as potential causes but everything was fine. It must just be the design of the seal!

[jdk81]

Many aftermarket seals are wider than the OEM ones.
Can be a PITA to seat

[MrRocky]

Ok all back together and same issue haha.
Swapped coil packs and plugs. No change
Plugs black so possibly overfuelling.
Map sensor is next port of call

[MrRocky]

Tried swapping map with the baleno one
Plugs same but it liked that even less.
Unplugging the map all together gave me some weird rotational type idle and a check engine light. Will try proper jimny map tmoz

[alien]

Have you tried an OBD reader in case there's some super obvious code?

[MrRocky]

Nah got no obd reader, its a good chance to go over the car, im finding nice suprises as i go, if i just swapped a sensor i wouldnt have found the crank seal was hours away from blowing completely. Mates bringing around map and cam sensor to try this arvo. Guy said he replaced the cam sensor but i have zero faith in any aftermarket ebay sensor or coil so gunna change that out too

[GraphicX]

a regular obd reader won't work on the G series jimnys.

i know the idle you're talking about with the map vacuum line disconnected, mine did that with the old engine, when i changed to the 1.6 it now idles at the high revs as it's meant to (think it's 1,500rpm or something, might dig the manual out).

[GraphicX]

this will only work when the CEL is illuminated, totally useless if it's intermittent (also describes process on a sticker under the bonnet);

Attachment:

obdjumper.jpg

Attachment:

obdcodes.jpg

this is the issue i had;

Attachment:

hesitates.jpg

[MrRocky]

Yeah no check engine light at all

[MrRocky]

I get the sensors in a couple hours to swap so will see if i can find the fault. All out of ideas if this doesnt work tried just about everything

[GraphicX]

could still potentially a fuel blockage if the sensors change nothing ?