[barbender]

I have drained the rear diff oil, I cannot remove the filler plug, is it left or right hand thread?. I was thinking of welding a 1/2 inch square socket drive to the existing plug to put a ratchet or rattle gun on it, good or bad idea?. further - if it is a good idea should I remove the fuel tank first. I have never had this filler plug problem before with other vehicles, regards

[henno]

Normally threaded. Use a breaker bar and a 10mm square. Is the plug all rounded and fucked up because someone used a 3/8" socket?

[MrRocky]

Heat helps

[sideways]

Fwiw if yours has the bastard 10mm squares you can buy plugs with normal hex heads from supercheap/repco/bunnings ect. I swapped the ones on my Jimny.

[watermouse]

Easier to weld a regular 10mm bolt into the plug and use a spanner/socket to remove. Then, as suggested, buy a new, better plug.

In future, good practice is to loosen filler plug before draining.

[bumstein]

watermouse wrote:

In future, good practice is to loosen filler plug before draining.

+1! This is absolutely one of the best practices there is!!! Saves you getting stuck, unable to drive the car, and killing yourself to open the damn thing!!! Ask me how I know


My methods for removal much the same as previous suggestions.

Find something that gets purchase. 10mm square drive (NEVER a 3/8 drive) if that's what it is.

Heat liberally!!! Squirt with crc while it's hot but let it cool for 10 min before trying it.

Heat repeatedly!!! Don't damage the plug trying to turn it after the first heat. Repeat the process lots of times, be patient.

Weld a nut on as a last resort. I've done it with the fuel tank in, but I don't suggest it. I can't imagine it's a good idea by any stretch!! Lose your whole car trying to fill the diff.

Good luck!!

[henno]

I did my diffs and gearbox and transfer case all just a few days ago.... and I always remove the filler before the drain.

a) It makes the oil come out in a steady stream rather than 'glob glob splash glob'
b) If you can't get it undone you haven't already drained the oil. The one on my gearbox almost met that criteria, actually.

I assumed it was very much common practice even moreso than just best practice. In fact, when I replied above I completely glossed over the part where the oil was already drained.

[Reubs]

Mr Suzimad fixed one for me in 10 minutes by welding an old nut onto it. Didn't disconnect anything first but the car was on a hoist and the guy is good with a welder.

Best investment is to buy or make a proper 10mm square plug tool. I couldn't readily find one so I ground down a Kincrome 11mm square tool to 10mm. If yours is too rounded from 3/8" drive a proper 10mm tool might 'just' still work. I found this out when I bought a Vitara with very mashed diff plugs.

[barbender]

Thanks for the replies guys, I bought the Sierra with the diff already drained, know the guy who owned it and I know it wasn't driven dry, just one other question regarding the heating, is it alright to heat around the filler plug with the fuel tank still in place or should I remove the fuel tank, regards

[bumstein]

Heating it with the tank in place is fine... As long as your careful not to heat the tank or direct the flame toward the tank. Use a directional flame, my favourite is the handheld MAP gas torches with the yellow cylinder

[barbender]

Thanks bumstein, I will be buying a MAP gas torch and cylinder tomorrow, regards

[steve125]

you could also try the 'phillips head door bolt' method.

want33s wrote:

The screws Suzuki use to hold the door hinges etc to the car look like they are easy to remove but can be damn stubborn.
I have tried several methods to remove them and spent a few $$ on impact driver bits that just shatter..Impact driver can also dent panels, not that the average Zook owner cares about a small dent but there are still a few nice shiny ones out there.

STEP 1:
You will need: Hammer, Coldchisel, Large phillips head screwdriver.


Step 2:
Place the coldchisel on the edge of the screw like shown below. Strike with hammer hard enough to put a notch in the screw.


STEP 3:
Keeping the tip of the chisel in the notch, lay it over a bit as shown. Undo is anti-clockwise so always lay it to the right when looking at the screw head.


STEP 4:
Strike again with hammer and screw will begin to rotate.


STEP 5:
Remove screw with screwdriver.




Always use Coppertec or NevaSieze or similar when reinstalling these screws and removing them in future will only require a screwdriver.
Ideally they are best replaced with stainless button head capscrews.

[barbender]

Has any one made or got pics of a trailer made from a maruti tub.

[alien]

Chisel trick has worked on mine in the past.