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Joined: Sun Sep 13, 2015 3:15 pm
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Vehicle: Suzuki Jimny

Post Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 11:27 am 
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I'm just in the middle of my conversion and it has been fun (sort of) but I'm just a little stuck being a noob and all!
Car is a 99' Jimny A/T

I've got the engine back in and bolted up and I'm at this point trying to attach the drive wheel to the torque convert and the gap between them is about 5mm do I need to put a spacer in and get some longer bolt or do I just move the torque converter back to meet the fly wheel?
I'm just wondering if there is enough on he torque converter spline to still connect with the AT lugs?

I've searched around on here and other sites and there doesn't seem to be anyone who had a issue with this so am I jut missing something.

Sorry if it is really simple to solve just don't want to mess it up!

thanks

Stephen

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Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm
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Location: Melbourne

Post Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 12:45 pm 
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I think the answer to this question isn't going to be 100% straightforward, mostly because it's not a common swap.

I assume you're using a BenT adapter or similar to adapt the 1.3 gearbox to the 1.6 block (?)

I assume you've removed the factory sandwich plate between the engine and gearbox and replaced it with the adapter?

The extra amount the converter needs to slide out will be the difference between the thickness of the sandwich plate and the 1.3/1.6 adapter.

Normal procedure is to fully seat the converter in the auto, attach the auto to engine, then slide the converter forward until it mates with the flex plate. I can't categorically answer whether there is enough engagement to do the job, but I would have measured it up on the bench before final assembly. If the difference is <5mm or so, I reckon you'll be OK, but I'd have measured it up.

As an aide, I trust you have additional trans cooling and a trans temperature gauge? The stock auto will be around 20% above its torque ceiling with the 1.6 powering it - that will manifest itself in lots of heat.

Steve.

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Joined: Sun Sep 13, 2015 3:15 pm
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Vehicle: Suzuki Jimny

Post Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 3:53 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
I think the answer to this question isn't going to be 100% straightforward, mostly because it's not a common swap.

I assume you're using a BenT adapter or similar to adapt the 1.3 gearbox to the 1.6 block (?)

I assume you've removed the factory sandwich plate between the engine and gearbox and replaced it with the adapter?

The extra amount the converter needs to slide out will be the difference between the thickness of the sandwich plate and the 1.3/1.6 adapter.

Normal procedure is to fully seat the converter in the auto, attach the auto to engine, then slide the converter forward until it mates with the flex plate. I can't categorically answer whether there is enough engagement to do the job, but I would have measured it up on the bench before final assembly. If the difference is <5mm or so, I reckon you'll be OK, but I'd have measured it up.

As an aide, I trust you have additional trans cooling and a trans temperature gauge? The stock auto will be around 20% above its torque ceiling with the 1.6 powering it - that will manifest itself in lots of heat.

Steve.



Thanks for this!

Yes Ben T adapter!
Yes re sandwich plate!

I thought as much re the gap being the difference of the plate I might just pull it back out and have a look re the engagement length on the bench as you say. I guess well worth it as no knowing could be a bit of a disaster!

Re the cooling side of things it was something that I was looking into also but will definitely put it further up the list! any tips?!

Thanks again, once I pull it out and measure it I'll put it up here.

The auto is on its last legs anyway so It'll be the next thing on the list! I'll be starting the research re the AW4 upgrade if that's even and option.

Stephen

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 3:53 pm 
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As long as the torque converter is seated properly, there is enough spline engagement to slide it back the extra few mm.
There is only 3mm or so difference between the factory plate and the bent plate

To install it normally, ro aid installation it is usually slid all the way for more room etc and pulled back to the flex plate and bolted up.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 4:01 pm 
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The FSM is very particular about ensuring the converter is all the way in (with a drawing and measurements) before reassembly of the engine/gearbox.

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Joined: Sun Sep 13, 2015 3:15 pm
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Vehicle: Suzuki Jimny

Post Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 5:12 pm 
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jdk81 wrote:
As long as the torque converter is seated properly, there is enough spline engagement to slide it back the extra few mm.
There is only 3mm or so difference between the factory plate and the bent plate

To install it normally, ro aid installation it is usually slid all the way for more room etc and pulled back to the flex plate and bolted up.


Thanks for this!

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