[GV6]

Hi All,

I'm not sure which if any of these events is significant and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

The other day I found I had left an interior light on and flattened the battery (to 1.5V), I put the charger on it for a day and it recharged ok, and started without any problem.

I drove through a storm and didn't have any issue, except that when I made right hand turns or when the car was stationary leaning to the left there was a sizzling sound coming from passengers side footwell. I figured the sizzling sound might be water which had pooled somewhere was falling onto the hot exhaust and boiling.

Driving home after about 10km the engine lost power and check engine light came ON. I turned off ignition, restarted without problem, revving engine seamed to fire cleanly, then lost power again after a few hundred meters with CEL illuminated.

Called tow truck, and by the time the tow truck arrived engine started ok and drove to back of truck.

Getting car off tow truck it started but with CEL illuminated and running rough (from memory could smell unburnt fuel).

Next day, engine turns over fine and lights come up on dash, but no CEL and engine not firing.

Cannot hear fuel pump priming, and no spark.

Fuel drips from fuel line if disconnected at filter adjacent fuel tank so I'm pretty sure there is fuel (gauge reckons over half full).

CMP sensor ? or immobiliser? or

maybe the ECU was the sizzling sound ? (looking at ECU there is no evidence of it being leaked on and wiring to it looks good although I haven't pulled it out).

I can't find a plug in engine bay to manually get codes, although my aircon button light illuminates approx 15 times when ignition is on, does this mean anything ?

Any ideas ?

Regards
GV6

[Gwagensteve]

First point of call would be a new/known good battery. Discharging to 1.5V will have caused damage. 10V is considered "flat"

I had a dying battery in my STi years ago. It would start the car fine but then havoc would set in.

[30ONA]

Gwagensteve wrote:

First point of call would be a new/known good battery. Discharging to 1.5V will have caused damage. 10V is considered "flat"

I had a dying battery in my STi years ago. It would start the car fine but then havoc would set in.

But Probably get the codes checked first in case you wipe the ECU history changing the battery, someone else my be able to confirm if this will wipe the memory.

PM losfer, he might be able to do the codes for you, I couldn't find anyone else who could do it apart from Suzuki.

[GV6]

30ONA wrote:

Gwagensteve wrote:

First point of call would be a new/known good battery. Discharging to 1.5V will have caused damage. 10V is considered "flat"

I had a dying battery in my STi years ago. It would start the car fine but then havoc would set in.

But Probably get the codes checked first in case you wipe the ECU history changing the battery, someone else my be able to confirm if this will wipe the memory.

PM losfer, he might be able to do the codes for you, I couldn't find anyone else who could do it apart from Suzuki.

Good point Gwagensteve, it measures ok lightly loaded but drops to 10.6v when cranking.

Will see if better battery gets it going.


300NA, if i do lose codes by changing battery would it re-write some codes anyway if there was still a problem ?

[Gwagensteve]

Yes, you loose codes once you change the battery. However, once the engine is running, new codes will be recorded if there are problems.
Steve.

[atari4x4]

wet ecu

[henno]

I'm with atari on this one. The ECU is pretty vulnerable down there if any water gets in that kick panel and a sizzling sound is never good.

[GV6]

I hooked up a couple of charged batteries in parallel, and voltage while cranking was 12.2 V for a lil while then eventually got down to about 11.6V after 15 sec of cranking.

Didn't even look like firing, again couldn't hear the fuel pump, and no CEL light, although normal dash lights come up.

It may well be the ECU

What is the most cost effective course of action ?

Is there a way to rule out immob and CMP sensor ?

Regards
GV6

[Gwagensteve]

I would agree, but I was working with the assertion the ECU hadn't been wet.

[30ONA]

GV6 wrote:

What is the most cost effective course of action ?

Is there a way to rule out immob and CMP sensor ?

Regards
GV6

Check codes!

[30ONA]

My car is alive as of the last few minutes, after being of the road since Christmas day. What have I learnt? Know when to get professional help.

Did your CEL work previously?

[fordem]

henno wrote:

I'm with atari on this one. The ECU is pretty vulnerable down there if any water gets in that kick panel and a sizzling sound is never good.

The ECU is not in the kick panel - it's actually above the kick panel - directly underneath the glove box.

GV6 wrote:

Didn't even look like firing, again couldn't hear the fuel pump, and no CEL light, although normal dash lights come up.

If you don't have a CEL when you switch the ignition on, you need to start there and find out why - yes, a defective ECU is a possibility, but so is a burned fuse - find the FI fuse under the hood and make sure it's good.

[30ONA]

30ONA wrote:

My car is alive as of the last few minutes, after being of the road since Christmas day. What have I learnt? Know when to get professional help.

Did your CEL work previously?

Ignore. Just re read OP CEL works.

Blocked drain plug from the windscreen overflowing and running into the car? Do you park near or under trees frequently?

[fordem]

Or just re-re-read - this quote is his most recent post...

GV6 wrote:

Didn't even look like firing, again couldn't hear the fuel pump, and no CEL light, although normal dash lights come up.

Quote:

Is there a way to rule out immob and CMP sensor ?

Yes - if the ECU is working, it will set the appropriate codes - which can be read with the appropriate tools from the OBD port under the steering wheel (I'm not certain if your model can be read with a paper clip), but, the first place to start is that CEL that is not coming on.

[henno]

fordem wrote:

The ECU is not in the kick panel - it's actually above the kick panel - directly underneath the glove box.

Well, yes. A few inches above the kick panel. I probably could have used better terminology rather than just generalising; I was just responding in kind. Regardless, the ECU is not in the greatest spot should any water leak in from the top, or flood up from the bottom. I was working on a plan to relocate it on my GV for a Cape York trip.

[fordem]

Agreed - I've heard of them filling up with water as a result of a blocked evaporator drain. Relocation is easier said than done - there is space to take it behind the glove box if you mounted it vertically - but the harness is too short - I did not have the courage to attempt an extension.

[suzukitas]

03-05 GV ECUS are known for letting water in(usually from aircon pipe that's blocked)
Changes in battery voltages from going flat to recharging more than likely quickened the fault that was guaranteed to occur at some stage.

[GV6]

300NA, what ended up being the problem with your car and how was it fixed, can you please update your fuel pump thread.

Fordem, thanks for the info, originally I did have CEL light when the engine stopped.

And afterwards had CEL light when ignition was turned on, and had CEL light when it ran poorly after tow truck.

But next time I tried to start engine NO CEL light when ignition turned on, it turned over fine, but couldn't hear fuel pump and no spark.

Will check fuses again once I get some time, they were all ok last time I looked, but maybe I've missed something ??

Is there a diagram showing pin outs of ECU so I can measure if ECU is getting power ?

Is there any risk of losing immob code/memory if I pull the ECU out to inspect it ?

Regards
GV6

[30ONA]

GV6 wrote:

300NA, what ended up being the problem with your car and how was it fixed, can you please update your fuel pump thread.

Is there a diagram showing pin outs of ECU so I can measure if ECU is getting power ?

Is there any risk of losing immob code/memory if I pull the ECU out to inspect it ?

Regards
GV6

Again I recommend getting someone with the right gear to check codes before pulling apart, RACQ couldn't do mine, 'losfer' can but it will be a trek for him but wort it for you if no one else can check them http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=53437. I found numerous threads here and on suzuki-forums where all sorts of weird things happen with these electronics.

Without the codes you will never know if what you have is what I had.

I'll update my other thread soon, I'm just waiting for info from the guy who repaired the electronics for me (he is in the UK), before I update. I want the info to be 100% correct as it was a strange case.

[schmiffee]

YEP...wet ECU. This happened with me - same sound and turns out that air-con water had drained on my ECU. Had to buy a genuine replacement - bugger all luck finding second hand with the many Wreckers I phoned. If you are looking for a genuine replacement sourcing one from down south (Black Auto in Grafton I think I sourced mine from) saved me $500 on one sourced locally (Tweed Heads/Coolangatta). Still came to $1800 delivered, so definitely not a CHEAP fix, but a fix nonetheless when I needed it...Hope you have better luck.

[30ONA]

What the prevention for the air con issue?

[GV6]

schmiffee wrote:

YEP...wet ECU. This happened with me - same sound and turns out that air-con water had drained on my ECU. Had to buy a genuine replacement - bugger all luck finding second hand with the many Wreckers I phoned. If you are looking for a genuine replacement sourcing one from down south (Black Auto in Grafton I think I sourced mine from) saved me $500 on one sourced locally (Tweed Heads/Coolangatta). Still came to $1800 delivered, so definitely not a CHEAP fix, but a fix nonetheless when I needed it...Hope you have better luck.

Wowsers, not cheap

[jono165]

We've got GV's starting to appear in u-pull-it wreckers in Victoria now so its probably possible to find a cheap ecu. I would assume that as long the used ecu matches your engine/gearbox combo theyre probably all the same?

[schmiffee]

30ONA wrote:

What the prevention for the air con issue?

Give the air-con pipe a clean out... Cheap fix for a possibly expensive problem. I still haven't remounted my ECU and it's been 4-ish years!!

[30ONA]

schmiffee wrote:

30ONA wrote:

What the prevention for the air con issue?

Give the air-con pipe a clean out... Cheap fix for a possibly expensive problem. I still haven't remounted my ECU and it's been 4-ish years!!

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/3g-2006-20 ... 649?page=1

[GV6]

If I do find an ECU at a wrecker, (assuming it is the ECU that is the problem) is it simply a plug in replacement ECU and it works situation or would it require coding (to immobiliser etc) ?

[tanshi]

you will want the ecu, key, key Ariel, immobilizer computer.not just the ecu

[30ONA]

GV6 wrote:

If I do find an ECU at a wrecker, (assuming it is the ECU that is the problem) is it simply a plug in replacement ECU and it works situation or would it require coding (to immobiliser etc) ?

You can recode but will need to go to Suzuki about $300 if they don't blame it on something else or send parts to the UK as I did.

[GV6]

30ONA wrote:

GV6 wrote:

If I do find an ECU at a wrecker, (assuming it is the ECU that is the problem) is it simply a plug in replacement ECU and it works situation or would it require coding (to immobiliser etc) ?

You can recode but will need to go to Suzuki about $300 if they don't blame it on something else or send parts to the UK as I did.

tanshi wrote:

you will want the ecu, key, key Ariel, immobilizer computer.not just the ecu

Just to clarify, if I want to have any chance at simply plugging replacement equipment in and working without re-coding, I will need the ecu, key, key Ariel, immobiliser computer ?

if I am happy to get immob recoded to computer by Suzuki dealer, then I only need ECU (assuming it is the ECU that is the problem) ?

Regards
GV6

[30ONA]

GV6 wrote:

30ONA wrote:

GV6 wrote:

If I do find an ECU at a wrecker, (assuming it is the ECU that is the problem) is it simply a plug in replacement ECU and it works situation or would it require coding (to immobiliser etc) ?

You can recode but will need to go to Suzuki about $300 if they don't blame it on something else or send parts to the UK as I did.

tanshi wrote:

you will want the ecu, key, key Ariel, immobilizer computer.not just the ecu

Just to clarify, if I want to have any chance at simply plugging replacement equipment in and working without re-coding, I will need the ecu, key, key Ariel, immobiliser computer ?

if I am happy to get immob recoded to computer by Suzuki dealer, then I only need ECU (assuming it is the ECU that is the problem) ?

Regards
GV6

Yes. In my case it was ecu, key and the immobilizer and areal were integrated in one unit in the steering column.