[Ronin]

Hey all.

After advice from people that have done rebuilds or plenty of repairs to Vitaras so I can see how this is gonna go.

My new car has leaks at pretty much every joint along the drive train except the rear diff. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I work with a few of them in a workshop so have good hands to help where they can. My biggest question is: how many of the joints down the length of the drivetrain have gaskets and how many can I just goo together like one of my mechanics says?

Also, what would be some areas that are going to cause me more issues than other areas? T case? Bell housing?

I figure every join in the engine itself will be a gasket job, again, are there any of these that are gonna be pains to redo? (Most of the engine is/was leaking at some point, it's an oily Boi)

Cheers in advance guys,

Russ

[ZUZUKI]

1999 should mean it is an SQ series Grand Vitara.
This range of cars had 3 different engine families in them - G16B was available in early SWB cars, J20A in SWB & Wagons & H25A/H27A in the wagon & XL7.
Might help us to help you if we know which engine you have got!.
Rgs, Michael

[Ronin]

It's a JLX SWB with the J20A.

Cheers man, Russ

[sideways]

Your mechanic may have already done this but I'd degrease and thoroughly clean everything. A little oil goes a very long way in term of making a mess. You'l likely find one thing is leaking and making everything else look horrible.

It's unlikely it will be the gaskets between the housings, it's far more common for the rubber seals to leak. To replace all the housing gaskets would likely cost a fair chunk of what the car is worth.

[vet 180]

sideways wrote:

Your mechanic may have already done this but I'd degrease and thoroughly clean everything. A little oil goes a very long way in term of making a mess. You'l likely find one thing is leaking and making everything else look horrible.

It's unlikely it will be the gaskets between the housings, it's far more common for the rubber seals to leak. To replace all the housing gaskets would likely cost a fair chunk of what the car is worth.

This x10

A small leak from say the valve cover can make it looks like the whole driveline is leaking

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fordem]

Most of the "gaskets" on a J20a are FIP (formed in place), they generally don't leak unless someone disturbs them - the common places that engine is likely to leak oil are the front & rear main seals, the valve cover gasket (which is not FIP), the oil pressure switch & the oil filter - degrease everything (do not use a pressure washer) let it dry and then start it and watch those points whilst it's idling.

[Ronin]

Yeah I've had two cracks with the pressure washer and used a can of degreaser on the underside, which made it alot better, but still plenty of filth under there. Thinking I'll borrow my old man's car ramps to get it further off the ground and give it a more thorough clean with brush and another can of degreaser.

Have been driving it around all day today though, so pretty sure by the time I get home I'm gonna have lots of oil evidence for my leaks.

Cheers guys, Russ

[Gwagensteve]

My money is on a rocker cover gasket at the back of the block.

They're not prone to driveline leaks.

[Ronin]

So it actually looks alot better than I was expecting. The other day while I was under there I noticed 2 bolts were missing at the front of the bell housing, that just serve to hold a thin plate on. Three in a nut and bolt combo I had on hand and that seems to have halted the worst of the leak from underneath. Must have been a fairly impressive leak because I was finding fresh oil most of the length of the car. Will continue to clean the underneath and put my tame machanics onto what's going on with the missing bolt saga.

In the meantime, my exhaust putty fix for a manifold crack has proven itself worthless, the putty just split over the top of the crack. Anyone know of a parts car with a spare manifold? Metalsmith at work tells me welding something made of old cast iron like that has about a 50/50 chance of working and may fuck it so I'm happy to just get another one if a reasonable price is attached.

Cheers guys, Russ

[atari4x4]

A leaking rear main seal will lube everything... gearbox etc back to the rear diff housing.

Get some Chemtech CT14 Engine & Bilge Degreaser & mix it 1:1 with kerosene & use a garden pump pressure spray to apply & rinse with the pressure washer, will cut through the oldest of filth.

[fordem]

Pressure washers on EFI systems are a definite NO-NO - you can use it underneath, but if you do topside, you can expect to have problems as you WILL force water past seals.

[Ronin]

Yeah I definitely have a busted rear main, reckon the gearbox needs a rebuild too so will do that at the same time.

Cheers guys, Russ