[matto3008]

My speedo is out. Will a GPS unit allow me to pass a roady?

[Joe]

I doubt it, why is speedo out bigger tyres?

[matto3008]

yes 31's

[Joe]

Put stock tyres on wont get a road worthy with 31's anyways

[matto3008]

Oh really? Well that's handy to know. Will have to find a set of road tyres then. Thanks a lot for the help, Joe.

[matto3008]

While I'm here any suggestion for some cheap options and what size to look for to get my speedo back to normal and through a roady. This is my first zook and I'm new to this sort of stuff. Any info would be very helpfull.

[alien]

You'll be OK with 215/75r15, or stock is 205/70r15

Assuming you're running 2" spring and 2" body lift to clear the 31s though, they might ping you there cos generally you're only allowed 2" lift in most places.

Personally, I'd run it over with the 31's on - they're going to pick up stuff regardless so give them something obvious to start with and they might overlook others hahaha

[Gwagensteve]

Matt is in QLD though, so I think they're generally more stringent on mods than the rest of AU, I think largely because of the convenience of their mod plate scheme.

If the accuracy of the speedo is assessed as part of a RWC in QLD, there's absolutely no way 31's are going to fly.

Stock wheels and tyres turn up for sale very cheaply on FB marketplace. A word of caution though, check how new they are. (manufacture date is moulded into tyres - do a google on what it looks like) lots of people have their old tyres lying around for many years and then decide to get rid of them, by which time they're ancient, hard a rock, and generally cracked. The stock Bidgestone's fitted to SJ70's 1988-1996 were prone to cracking on the shoulder between the tread block and the sidewall and this will also fail a RWC.

Be aware that tyres and rims for Vitaras also pop up and are frequently advertised as suitable for a Sierra. Whilst they fit, the rims have incorrect offset which makes the track width ~2" narrower. Again, this may or not be an issue for RWC.

[matto3008]

Awesome. Thanks for the info

[Joe]

matto3008 wrote:

Thanks a lot for the help, Joe.

No worries

[pete_79]

The main points that even the most dodgy roadworthy guys will look at is;
All lights are working correctly, age of the tyres and any major rust areas (I got pinged for the 10 year old tyres when I tried to rego my zook. )

You might find some of the mobile roadworthy guys can be a little more flexible with some things.
I’d suggest maybe ringing around a few mobile guys in your area and have a quick chat (don’t mention specific mods or concerns that you have), you’ll pretty quickly get a feel for how hard they’re going to be on you with their inspection.
You might just get lucky.....

If you’re all sweet with the above 3 main points and still get knocked back, at least they will give you the specific things that you need to rectify.
Might be more cost effective then running around trying to change a whole bunch of things that aren’t really an issue in the end.

But Steve is right, any of the bigger workshops or brand name places won’t pass that tyre, spring and body lift combo. Sorry.

[matto3008]

Yeah right. I've removed the illegal LED headlights and gone back to stock and all lights, indicators etc are working. I have a little rust in the passenger floor pan to tend to and I do have a 2" body and 2"spring lift which I've been worried about. I thought the 31's would be ok with the flares but thanks to you guys I now know I will need some different tyres at the very least. Love this forum. Everyone who has responded has been extremely helpful with great info. Hopefully I will be on the road soon!
Cheers all!

[alien]

pete_79 wrote:

If you’re all sweet with the above 3 main points and still get knocked back, at least they will give you the specific things that you need to rectify.
Might be more cost effective then running around trying to change a whole bunch of things that aren’t really an issue in the end.

That's more what I was getting at. Odds are you'll have to go over twice anyway, so might as well get a complete list on the first run, then fix what's flagged. They'll find stuff like play in wheel bearings, worn seatbelts, perished fuel lines etc if they look properly.

[ZUZUKI]

That used to be a theory to work to in Vic - leave a few obvious fails for the RWC guys to write something down, hoping that harder stuff you didn't want to get pinged on was 'overlooked', but that doesn't fly anymore - at least in Vic.
If they see obvious stuff, they look even harder, working on the basis of "If this guy can't be bothered fixing the basics, what else can't he be bothered with?"
In Vic at least, it is very hard nowadays, to be able to find someone who doesn't 'look properly' - VicRoads has really cracked down on testers over recent years.
I don't have a RWC licence, but worked for a place that did, so did inspections - a few years ago now & it was bad enough then - only gotten harder since.
Rgs, Michael

[cairns27]

The biggest worry for a RWC guy is that you sell the car, and the new buyer kicks up a stink, or gets pulled over by the cops. it comes back on him.


bye

[alien]

That was also the case when I engineered mine... If something fails on the chassis that was signed off by the engineer, he's liable. And it's for the lifetime of the vehicle!