[Juicerider]

Hi. I’m trying to find the info on setting up the pinion pre load on the front and rear diffs on a 92 vitara.I’ve only got a Haynes manual and it’s not covered by it. If anybody has a copy of the relevant chapter in the shop manual or can recommend a better, more detailed E manual, that would be appreciated.
Cheers
Steve

[Gwagensteve]

do you want to know the procedure, or the starting torque?

[Juicerider]

Gwagensteve wrote:

do you want to know the procedure, or the starting torque?

Both would be good,
Cheers Steve

[Gwagensteve]

The procedure will vary if you're replacing diff gears vs just rebuilding the diffs retaining the existing gears. It's a fairly complex process to achieve the correct tooth contact pattern. As you're not providing any context, I'm going to assume you're simply rebuilding the existing diffs, so you shouldn't h ave to adjust pinion depth, but if you're putting new bearings in, there's a possibility the pinion depth will change - consider that pinion depth shims are sold in .03mm breaks, so it doesn't take much tolerance in the bearings to need to reset pinion depth.

Obvsiously you need a new crush sleeve for each axle.

There is a frankly not very easy to understand graph on page 7E-18 of the FSM that covers the procedure, you need to read all the relevant pages. There's a three ways of measuring preload, via torque wrench, spring balance (fish scale) or using the flange holder tool 09922-66020.

Basically pinion preload should be 9.0-17.0kg-cm with a torque wrench or 1.8-3.4kg starting torque with a spring balance. That's with no centre in the diff (the pinion only)

With the diff centre installed, starting toque of the completed assembly is dependent on what your pinion preload was.

For example, if pinion preload was 2.6Kg, then the acceptable range with the centre installed is 2.8-3.2Kg.

I'm going to suggest this isn't a task to be undertaken lightly. You NEED a factory service manual and a pretty good understanding of diff rebuilding. It's about the most technically challenging job you could do on a Suzuki. As per Suzuki you can't back it off if you overdo it, because the crush sleeve is a one shot deal.

I have seen numerous Suzuki diffs fail because of poor setup, typically the pinion preload was likely set too loose and the pinion fails.

[Juicerider]

Thanks Gwagensteve, appreciate your help
Yeah im aware it’s a long painful job to set up, but I’m up for the challenge and i ll be patient and take my time.
So what I started doing was just fitting airlockers in the front and the back. However I’ve found the prop shaft flange is a bit bent so need to change that.. I was thinking I may be able to get away with just torquing the pinion nut back to the same position, and then check the preload. What do you think? I’ve got a set of bearings and seal in the kit so am tempted to change them anyway.
The front diff I’m changing and I’m putting the old crown wheel and pinion in a newer steel diff housing, so I’ll be starting from scratch with the front.
I don’t have a fsm, is there anyway I can get hold of a copy of the relevant pages?
Cheers
Steve

[rexhunta]

PM me your email address and i can send the front diff section through on pdf. Doesn't break the centre down etc but does give you torque specs etc.

It's 17 pages and about 6.8 meg.