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Post Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:29 pm 
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so what i would want is either my standard rears up front then 2' lifted in the rear running 2' extended shackles on the front and the drop shackles on the rear.
or would there be enough extra length in the superior drop shackles to level the front and rear without lifted springs and just get another standard set of rears for the front

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:35 pm 
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as stated above, unless you want to redrill your hangers, or weld the front hangers further forward standard rears are too long for the front.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:39 pm 
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so does your setup sit level with the carry springs and 2' lifted or is one end higher then the other. any pics tanshi?

i dont really wanna redrill and i cant weld so carry is looking good.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:45 pm 
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yeah, it sits level.

Image

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:53 pm 
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so you have extended shackles in the rear aswell. just re read your earlier post, got confused with the carry and the mighty boys. carry is front mighty boy is rear(if i want longer springs)

i think i have some idea of what ill do now

im thinking carry front with 2' extended shackles (no further mods needed). then 2' lifted ome rears wih drop shackles.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:56 pm 
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thats it yeah you got it.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 5:08 pm 
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tanshi wrote:
If you can find a set of Suzuki carry rear springs, you only need extended shackles. no redrilling or welding required.


Not true..
I run carry rears up front and 100mm shackles.. I had to redrill the rear mount to stop the shackle inverting.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 5:10 pm 
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true in my case. i have never had a shackle invert. i do have 2 inch extended shackle though.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 5:14 pm 
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yeah 100mmOA shackles are only about 40mm longer than standard.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 5:52 pm 
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31zook wrote:
yeah 100mmOA shackles are only about 40mm longer than standard.


30mm actually :wink:
standard shackles are 70mm eye to eye.

I have the carry in the front, I have 90mm eye to eye shackles, and I have the rear mount redrilled 20mm backwards. This results in the axle being about 18mm forward of standard in the front. However to have the front with a sensible shackle angle at ride height, the carry springs were reset to give about 60mm lift; not sure I'd want that much plus extended shackles plus a body lift in a sprung over Sierra 8O

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 11:21 pm 
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want33s wrote:
tanshi wrote:
If you can find a set of Suzuki carry rear springs, you only need extended shackles. no redrilling or welding required.


Not true..
I run carry rears up front and 100mm shackles.. I had to redrill the rear mount to stop the shackle inverting.


x2 :wink:

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 3:00 am 
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yea i might just use my rear up front with shackles and drill the mount and run 2' ome in the rear and run the drop shackles. how would you go with engineering the redrilled mount?

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 12:06 am 
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no drilling is required if you have 135mm pin to pin shackles

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 1:47 am 
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86slowsierra wrote:
no drilling is required if you have 135mm pin to pin shackles
Shackles this length will alter the castor too much giving very poor steering at highway speeds. This can be counteracted somewhat with castor wedges, but the best method is clocking the knuckles.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 1:01 pm 
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Is it possible to. Move the spring back enough to use standard shackles

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 1:40 pm 
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mcwilly wrote:
yea i might just use my rear up front with shackles and drill the mount and run 2' ome in the rear and run the drop shackles. how would you go with engineering the redrilled mount?


probably not good, also cant have extended shackles

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:17 pm 
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Is yours engineered brendan? so if im going to run drop shackles in the rear will i need lifted springs in the rear still or ruff doesnt give that much height

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 11:31 pm 
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86slowsierra wrote:
no drilling is required if you have 135mm pin to pin shackles


fuck that.

heres what i did in front.
dunno if it helps or not...


Chassis mount of front springs. Relocated back 30mm & down a bit too.
Image

What I used to move the diff foward again (moved spring back 30mm which equals diff foward 5mm of stock. These pushed it another 20mm foward = 25mm foward from stock now)
Image

front shackle angle
Image

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 1:41 am 
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mcwilly wrote:
Is yours engineered brendan? so if im going to run drop shackles in the rear will i need lifted springs in the rear still or ruff doesnt give that much height

my rig is engineered but not for the ruf.
i run standared springs, front are dead flat and rear arnt far from it. sit about level

i would be doing what dee did. if only i had the patients for it.

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 3:41 am 
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thats very similar to the kit from rocky road

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 3:31 pm 
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I got the idea for the rear spring mount from the typical "YJ" kits that are sold in the states.

But i made it all myself using my own measurements taken from a set of 2" ome rear springs in the front to get the diff exactly where i wanted it with the amount of lift and the shackle angle that i wanted.

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:36 pm 
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If i had my time again i would run a full ruff straight away. Set up drop shackles the same as the (US missing link)... but the steering arms will touch so still figuring that one out...

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:38 pm 
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Full as in chassis extension? My cars fully engineered at the moment so want to try stay that way if possible. So the only real legal way is chassis extension to get rid of extended shackles. I wonder if the engineer would pass the mod dee did

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 12:32 am 
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mcwilly wrote:
Full as in chassis extension? My cars fully engineered at the moment so want to try stay that way if possible. So the only real legal way is chassis extension to get rid of extended shackles. I wonder if the engineer would pass the mod dee did


I am pretty sure that the engineers would be horrified, the problem is that the spring bush is not properly supported because it hangs off the edge of the original mount. The tube is supposed to to take up and then the bush moves around it suppoting the eye of the spring, in this modification the plates are spaced away from the tube by the thickness of the original mount. Will it work....yes.....is it a good method....I don't think so.

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 1:53 am 
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so say i cut the rear mount off and move it back can i move it back enough to run standard shackles or are the shackles or chassis extension required. might speak to an engineer about the chassis extension, i cant weld but so makes it expensive

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 2:13 am 
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so if i move the front mounts how much do they need to be moved forward and if its moved forward how fars the rear moved back

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 3:20 pm 
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31zook wrote:
If i had my time again i would run a full ruff straight away. Set up drop shackles the same as the (US missing link)... but the steering arms will touch so still figuring that one out...


I have this setup SPOA with missing links on the front and RUF. My brother is SPUA with full RUF and his steering links are close, but no issues. Steering boxes are in standard position.

Layto....

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 4:24 pm 
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Might have to check out your setup layto. Is yours engineerable?

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 2:59 am 
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what would happen if i used the standard spring mounts and used 2' extended shackles?

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:15 am 
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Usually the shackle lays out flat on compression, but i have seen it work before.

Layto....

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