[brendan]

got the vit brakes on today and the peice of shit still pulling to the right. what would cause this? rear brakes have new master cylinders and new pads, though the rear diff oil seal is leaking on the left.

the right hand side does seem to grip more then the left.

also with the vit brake the peddle now runs out of room before the brake at at the max. i am thinking the bigger vit brakes arnt getting enough oil the master cylinder can give. so whats the almost direct fit master cyliner thats going to suply enough oil?

thanks guys

[steak_knife]

brendan wrote:

got the vit brakes on today and the peice of shit still pulling to the right. what would cause this? rear brakes have new master cylinders and new pads, though the rear diff oil seal is leaking on the left.

the right hand side does seem to grip more then the left.

also with the vit brake the peddle now runs out of room before the brake at at the max. i am thinking the bigger vit brakes arnt getting enough oil the master cylinder can give. so whats the almost direct fit master cyliner thats going to suply enough oil?

thanks guys

If it`s going to the floor I`d say you have air in it or a leak, your master should have heap`s of push.
Dose the peddle pump up? pump it a few time`s, dose it get better?

[brendan]

steknig wrote:

brendan wrote:

got the vit brakes on today and the peice of shit still pulling to the right. what would cause this? rear brakes have new master cylinders and new pads, though the rear diff oil seal is leaking on the left.

the right hand side does seem to grip more then the left.

also with the vit brake the peddle now runs out of room before the brake at at the max. i am thinking the bigger vit brakes arnt getting enough oil the master cylinder can give. so whats the almost direct fit master cyliner thats going to suply enough oil?

thanks guys

If it`s going to the floor I`d say you have air in it or a leak, your master should have heap`s of push.
Dose the peddle pump up? pump it a few time`s, dose it get better?

its not going to the floor but it feels like it hits a bumpstop kinda thing. could be air in it as air may have goten into the rear brakes?
but its still pulling to the right which is my main consert at the moment

[steak_knife]

sound like 1 wheel isn`t working properly, get it up on stand`s with some one to apply pressure to the peddle, see if you can turn a wheel, if you have an oil leak onto shoe`s or pad`s, that will greatly reduce the stopping power.


Hope that help`s

[brendan]

got new front wheel bearings and rear and all spin freely with no noise

[steak_knife]

Did you re adjust the rear`s shoe`s? Could all be the same prob..

[brendan]

Not sure. I'll pull the rear off tomorow and cheak em out.

[joeblow]

brendan wrote:

also with the vit brake the peddle now runs out of room before the brake at at the max. i am thinking the bigger vit brakes arnt getting enough oil the master cylinder can give.

had the same drama with my vehicle and kennys LJ. ditched the vit ones and went back to sierra calipers. best improvement i had was using sierra calipers and a 2.0 litre booster and master.......unbelievable!


thats why nowadays i don't do conversions to vitara calipers and recomend a booster/ master upgrade instead.

[brendan]

Could you use a 2l booster with vit brakes.

[royce]

Did you move the calipers round off their mounts to bleed them?

I assume you mean pulls when braking and it did it before as well? swap your tyres, clean the rears up, they will make a difference

[zooker]

I dont reckon you've bled them properly. I have an awesome pedal with the vit brakes.

As mentioned before you need to rotate the vit calipers to bleed them correctly

[wyt91t]

i agree with royce tyres make a big difference as to which way the car pulls too when braking..

[brendan]

Wheel have just been put on. What way dobi need to move them so they are bleed right?

[royce]

if you bleed them in the sierra position the bleed nipple isnt eh highest point so you dont get the air out, you ned to roll them round so they sit like on a vit

[JrZook]

brendan wrote:

got the vit brakes on today and the peice of shit still pulling to the right. what would cause this? rear brakes have new master cylinders and new pads, though the rear diff oil seal is leaking on the left.

the right hand side does seem to grip more then the left.

So you don't think that the diff oil seal leak on the left side is degrading the brake performance on that side? Sounds like a very likely factor to me as well as not properly bleed brakes.

Dan

[brendan]

yer i though that too. Il be pulling them off soon so il get back to you guys

[brendan]

ok got all 4 off

rear end is fine no oil on the pads or drums

front end did have air in like you said. bleed all of the air out of both sides. peddle still feels the same, slightly more normal now. also might add the peddle only feels shit when the car is turned on.

braking while still pulling to the right. i did some 70kmh to 0kmh stops and the right hand side pad was hot, the left not so hot. also the right hand sided wanted to locked up as i herd it starting to screech.

whats next?

[tanshi]

seals in the main master cyl ?

[brendan]

tanshi wrote:

seals in the main master cyl ?

you talking about the cylinder where you put the brake fluid in? it could be that however if a seal is fucked wouldnt oil be coming out? i do have a spare one thats is probably going to be my next thing if eveyone thinks so

[royce]

are the pads new?

hot on one side sounds like stuck pistons, go for a drive somewhere where you dont need the brakes and see if it still gets hot

[brendan]

royce wrote:

are the pads new?

hot on one side sounds like stuck pistons, go for a drive somewhere where you dont need the brakes and see if it still gets hot

yup brake new pads had the first run yesterday.

thats what i did i did 2 runs up and down a dead street at 70kmh and hit the brakes hard as i can, even did the double tap thing. the right hand side i could feel the heat radiating when i went in for a closer look, left side got nothing

[royce]

aweseome, so first you ignored the instructions on the box about bedding pads in, theres your shit pedal right there

then I said go somewhere where YOU DONT NEED TO BRAKE if one is still hot its probably dragging, if neither are hot the left is likely seized

[brendan]

was no instruction on bleeding. but yes i have bleed them proberly now.

i must have misunderstood what you said about goign for a drive. in going to the shops soon so ill use little braking.

[Pubic]

not bleeding... BEDDING brake pads in.

you need to bed them in over time. not just jump on them.. it will fark them up.

[Scrawny]

This from DBA:



For optimal use of any given brake system, the pads and rotor have to be compatible with each other. The bed-in procedure establishes that compatibility between the pad and rotor.
This is achieved by a combination of rubbing speed, temperature, line pressure, and Inertia. Bed-in is also influenced by pad and rotor material chemistries.
It is always recommended that only compatible pads and rotors be used in any given application.

Bedding in advantages:

1. Gradually heat treats the rotor and eliminates any thermal shock in the rotor

2. Burn off volatiles and moisture from the resin that is near pad surface. This will eliminate "green fade."

3. Establish a layer of transfer film about a few microns thick on the rotor surface. Shearing of the film during friction is an effective source of friction force. Otherwise, when using a freshly ground rotor without the transfer layer, the main friction force would come from cutting, plowing, or scoring the asperities on the rotor surface. This leads to inconsistent braking effectiveness.

4. Mate the two surfaces to a near perfect geometrical match, so that the contact area is high, and therefore the friction force is increased.

5. The performance of a fresh rotor/fresh pad system would be inconsistent. This is due to ever-changing structures and properties of the two mating materials. Bed-in of pads and rotor will form a stable transfer film.

6. If bedding in procedure is not applied, a stable transfer film may not be established for a long time. In other words, the rotor surface would have to be constantly regenerating a film that is not quite stable for a long time. This effect would reduce the performance and increase the wear.


Procedure

Always consider the Brake pad manufacturers bedding in recommendations.

1. After installing new disc rotors &/or brake pads, perform 8 to 10 slow downs applying moderate pressure from approximately 50 - 60 kph without coming to a stop.

2. Make an additional 2 to 3 slow downs applying heavy pressure from approximately 60 - 70 kph without coming to a stop.

3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!

4. Allow at least 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.

After step 4 your new disc rotors &/or pads are ready for normal use. Be aware that the full bedding in process can take up to 300 - 500 Kms depending on driving style. During this period try and avoid any high speed hard braking to a dead stop.

[gypsy]

this is y bendix now has a titanium stripe so u dont have to bed them in.yes i have tryed both bedding and not and the braking is the same.but i still bed them in or the boss will cry

[gypsy]

ps make shore the calaper moves on the slides